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What is this and what does it do ????

pornorob

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I don;t know what this is . Can anyone tell me what it is, what it does , and if I need it?

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to answer the "do i need it" (for smog purposes) yes, absolutely required
(for drivability) no, not required, but doesnt hurt anything either (provided its working)
 
I;ve been having some serious hesitation problems could a faulty egr valve be causing it
 
You said the choke was removed too...as in the choke blade is gone, or you've tied it open, or the element is all thats gone?
 
the choke blade is gone I put the choke housing back on just to plug the vacuum port in the side.
 
mechted said:
to answer the "do i need it" (for smog purposes) yes, absolutely required
(for drivability) no, not required, but doesnt hurt anything either (provided its working)


Thank you! Everyone thinks it "robs power!" :surepal:
 
K5MONSTERCHEV said:
Thank you! Everyone thinks it "robs power!" :surepal:

technically, it does. it obviously weighs something, and weight reduces the amount of usable power. so technically, removing it would create more power. but the gain would be so minute, a chassis dyno might not even show a gain. just thought i'd get technical on ya. :p:
 
Since the vehicle wouldn't actually be moving on the dyno I don't think that massive amount of weight would even be a factor... :grin: :grin: Now under real conditions.........
 
on a dyno, the suspension will load, and unload just like it normally would, thus weight will transfer. and actually, a vehicle is moving on the dyno. the rollers are just absorbing the momentum.
 
i read this & dont know if anyone answered your ? so Hesitation can be from the egr valve. remove the vacuum hose from it & plug it. If the hesitation goes away buy a new egr valve.
 
Remove it and block it off...

Simply unplugging the vacuum hose may not be enough..if its stuck partly open by carbon deposits,it will allow exhaust gas to enter the intake ALL the time,causing an "internal" vacuum leak!..this can cause hesitation and stalling,among other things--you need to remove it and make a block off plate to REALLY test it--or at least clean all the carbon off the "plunger" thing so your sure its fully seated,and remove and plug the hose to it.....

I feel the EGR valve DOES kill a bit of power,since its sending already mostly burned exhaust gases back into the motor--the main purpose of it is to lower combustion chamber temparature to prevent "pinging" and high NOX emissions,I've noticed more power on my 305 when I removed and blocked it off(had too,to allow my edelbrock performer carb to fit,it hit the EGR valve!)--my truck is a 79,and emission exempt--your state may vary!.. :crazy:
 
Under ideal conditions (everything in working order) EGR cannot hurt performance. It's vacuum or electronically controlled, when the engine is under load vacuum signal is lost, and the EGR can't possibly operate. Same as vac advance. It's a cruise-only device.

IF it's not working correctly, it can stick and cause problems, but you should notice that with a poor idle, and testing it while the engine is operating (by pushing up on the diaphram under the top) should degrade idle quality.
 
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