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Whats the downside to this?

DR

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I ran in to a guy that had built this home made shackle flip. All he did was grind away the factory hanger a bit for clearance. Then, build a heafty shackle that fit on the outside. Seams like a cheap and easy way to do a flip. But, whats the downside?

shackle flip.jpg
 
I don't really understand shackle angle I guess . I always liked it in the middle so the shackle can swing forward AND backward equal amounts .

I guess mine is a little rearward to begin with , and it works well :

100_2022.jpg
 
I ran in to a guy that had built this home made shackle flip. All he did was grind away the factory hanger a bit for clearance. Then, build a heafty shackle that fit on the outside. Seams like a cheap and easy way to do a flip. But, whats the downside?

That is a pretty good idea actually, I haven't seen that before. The only thing I can really see that might be an issue is that the shackle might contact the bracket on the back side (binding because the bracket wasn't designed to have bearing contact on that side). If the shackle clears the bracket, its a great idea IMO.


I don't really understand shackle angle I guess . I always liked it in the middle so the shackle can swing forward AND backward equal amounts .

I guess mine is a little rearward to begin with , and it works well :

100_2022.jpg



The reason that people set their shackles at ~45 degree angles is because leaf springs have more droop than compression. This is because leaf springs don't have linear spring rates.

In compression, all of the leaves are in contact with each other and all of them must be stressed to move the suspension up.

In droop, the main leaf is pretty much the only one that has to be overcome (this varies based on how your spring pack is tied together).

For example, my front spring pack (52's, 3 leaves and an overload) is probably ~400 lbs/in uptravel and 200 lbs/in down travel.
 
So Pauly if Im seeing what I think im seeing, you are basically running the same thing I have pictured. You just made a bracket to use your factory shackle instead of a new shackle like in my pic. Is that correct? Also, how thick is the metal you used, and does the bracket swivel on the top and bottom?
 
I actually just saw one of those the other day. the main problem with the one I saw, which appears to be the same problem that that one has, is there is no bushing on the top side of the shackle.
 
So Pauly if Im seeing what I think im seeing, you are basically running the same thing I have pictured. You just made a bracket to use your factory shackle instead of a new shackle like in my pic. Is that correct? Also, how thick is the metal you used, and does the bracket swivel on the top and bottom?

I bought it from someone who bought it from Echobit , which went out of business owing people money .

MaxPF has made a couple sets himself in the last six months for himself and Jason4x4 , they worked out great .
 
I have always thought the Echobit flip was a great design.
Too bad I paid for a set and never received them. :(
I still would love to get a set. :D
 
The biggest issue I see is that there is no bushing on the upper end of the shackle. The other is what exactly did he have to grind. You lose a lot of strength in the bracket even if you grind "just a little" off of the stamped lip aroud it.
 
Yeah, the shackle angle is much more complex than any of us give it credit.

Yup.

Shackle angle actually affects spring rate throughout the travel of the spring as well

In a nut shell the flatter the shackle gets in compression the spring rate goes up.

The farther it is to Flat in the droop direction the less the spring rate is. Until the shackle is maxed out and the spring is pulling on the shackle in pure tension.

Shackle angle is a BIG deal in all reality.
 
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