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Wheel and lift ID help.

Aramos3

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I am at the tail end of my k5 build, LS swap complete, interior acquired, and it's currently at the paint shop. With that all being said I am now on suspension and wheel lift the plan is to go with an ORD standard lift and the factory rallys. I found the picture below online and its the exact look I want can anyone identify the lift height and tire height?

Does it look like 35's with a 4" or 6" lift?

Or am I completely off.

I dont plan on off roading it just a weekend cruiser to the beach and back.

IMG_0452.jpeg
 
My bet is 4" lift with 33's.

There used to be a sticky thread with pics and specs of members trucks for specific examples of various lift combos for reference but I don't see it now. Still looking...
 
 
I am going to say 35s and 6" with the amount of tire showing and the clearance on the fenders
 
Looks like I will be going with a 4" lift, any concern with pinion angles with a 4" lift?
 
The ORD kit will be pretty good no instructions to shim the the t case xmember. You will probably need to shim the axle, depending on what style u joints your current drive shaft has, will determine the how you move the pinion.
pinion_angle_bad_angles.PNG

The best solution would a double cardian (CV) at the t case and point the pinion at the t case out put shaft, normally 1-2° down. The amount down will very with spring softness.
cv drive shaft angles.jpg

At 4" it is not a given that your current drive/s will work, they might. Be prepared for having some built.
 
I had a 4” lift on my 85 K-5 and had rear shaft u-joint rattle on de-excelleration due to too much angle.
Your results may vary due to the LS swap and if the trans & case were moved forward.
 
Ya might need a CV shaft then - all the 85~88 K-5’s rear shafts were the same dimensions ( by way of each adapter length compensating ) and were pretty short due to the 208’s tail shaft length.
 
:thinking: Now I'm second guessing my choice I am already too far north of my initial budget with paint and drivetrain. 33's with a 2" lift are sounding more reasonable now, especially for a daily driver that commutes 70 miles daily round trip.
 
you need to think about ring and pinon ratios for 35s, even 33's with the over drive. I went 4.88 on 33 with 700r4. But I am much heavier k20 burb, and gen 1 350. With 33's and ls 3.73 or 4.10s in a k5 should do. What gears are in your truck now.

Cardinal rule here "One Good Mod deserves another"
 
Have you been driving it with 60 and 4l65 ? if so what size tires on it now and what rpm are you running at say 65 mph. Does it pull out and pass from say 55 mph ?
 
Its currently on 235/75/15 which i believe are the factory 31's. I didn't drive it much before putting it in the body shop. I drove it on the highway a couple of times took it to the tuner for a street tune. Which he took in account the 3:42 and future 33s. The truck passes with ease at Highway speeds i can't recall the rpm's but i never felt it was screaming and kept a constant 77-88mph speed for about 30 miles.
 
I don't think you'll need as much gear with the 6.0 as you would with a gen 1 SBC. Give it a shot with 3.42 and 33's You could possibly fit the 33's with stock springs and the right off set, but 2" will be much better. Might still get a little rub turning over bump.
Also note that higher you raise a square body the more brickish they become. More HP and gas to do the same speeds.
 
3.42 was a marginal ratio for the factory tire size. They should have had at least 3.73 with the 31's. With 33's, you won't really need 4th gear until 60MPH. Go ahead and read some of the many threads here on gear selection and you'll see the deeper gear recommendations. It's better for the transmission, makes the vehicle a lot more enjoyable and hardly effects the fuel economy.

It's not like it has to be done right away, but at least keep an eye on the transmission temps in the meantime.
 
Definitely get a trans temp guage, keep that 4l65e cool.
We can discuss trans coolers any time you wish.
 
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