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Wheeling last weekend Pictures

Nice Jimmy...did you fab/design the 3-links or purchase and install? I know Off Road Ltd has a real nice Coil Over for the K-5's/Jimmy's but at almost $4K it is way out of my budget.

What size tires are you running and how is the Dana 44 holding up to your high speed abuse? I was planning on putting a 44 in to upgrade my 10 bolt and run 8 lugs to go with my rebuilt 14B FF...though it seems that most on this site suggest passing on it and opt for the Dana 60.

My challenge is that Dana 60's go for over $1K in these parts and finding a steal on one has not been forthcoming over the last year.
 
It was all hand built. Bolt on never truly seems to be bolt on. The front is a 10 bolt with no gussets. Thought I changed that in my sig.

The trick to making anything last is to build it right and know its limits. The bypasses and bump stops are what saves the truck. And if 4k is too much. $1200 for one shock may limit your build. I did not pay that though. Sponsorship is great. Running 35's. The heavy axles add a lot of unsprung weight to control.
 
82355 said:
Not really an upgrade, about the same, maybe even a downgrade.

Martin
Click to expand...

D44s are weaker internally(smaller spiders/side gears)
10 Bolts have weaker axle tubes (easier to bend)
I have broken spiders in multiple D44s and axleshafts in both types, dont think I have personally blown up a 10 bolt - but I have seen it happen. Bent a ten bolt housing, never bent a D44 housing (not due to a lack of trying!)
 
Yeah, the pinion is bigger on a 10 bolt as well, I found that out trying to put a yoke from a 10 bolt on a Dana 44 the other night.

Martin
 
I have yet to bend my 10 bolt, and I have looked like I tried. Even have a spare in the shop because I was told it would not last.
 
I guess I forgot to include my intended use for my K-5. An all purpose SUV with enough stout to drive home. I will tow with it, take up into the mountains for camping, hunting, dirt biking, got to the beach, snow skiing and drive arround town for fun...with the ability to step on the peddle and not have to worry about breaking something .

NOW: 87' K-5, 35" Tires, 4" Tuff Country All-Spring, ORD Steering Brace and Plate, 383 Stroker, 700R4, NP208 W/HAD SYE, CVC Drive Shaft, 10 B's F&R W/4.56 & Eaton LDS in RE. Exibits a lot of driveline vibrations (after 4 diff. 4X4 shops attempts to correct) and a lot of bump steer.

Plans: NP241W/JB SYE, New F & R Drivelines, 14B FF W/Disc Conversion and 4.56 R& P, Dana 44 FE W/4.56 R&P, DIY or ORD 2.5" Rear Shackle flip, ORD Sway-bar Disconnects, 6" Front Springs, 2WD Steering Box, XJ Steering Shaft, Cross-over steering and all running on 37" tires. Looking 6+" front and 7" Rear to clear tires with minimal front fender trimming.

So...what I'm hearing is that going to a 14B FF is the right thing period...but that going to a Dana 44 front is actually a down grade in overall performance and reliability in my situation. Given that a cheap Dana 60 in my area is easily a $1K, before rebuilding, isn't there a way to upgrade the 44 to meet my needs and not end up paying the 60 $$$$?

Can I build the 44 and be happy with it?

Fire away...
 
The Dana 44 isn't really a downgrade. The 10 bolt is just about a duplicate of it. You would probably be fine with either, although a Dana 60 would definitely be better.

Martin
 
I know a boat load of guys running D35's with 35's and small blocks with HP. They are in lighter trucks, but the skinny peddle control can make almost any part last.
 
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