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Which arm for d60 crossover with 52's

garlicbreath

garlicbreath

1/2 ton status
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May 17, 2003
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I swapped in 52's on my 71 blazer and need to choose a D60 crossover steering arm. Do I need to go highsteer? I wouldn't mind but money is tight and that would mean lots of new parts. Does the tie rod need to go behind the axle? There are lots of threads for 73+ but not for first gens.
 
I don't have a 1st Gen but my vote is for the NWF arm. :wink1:
 
I have ORDs crossover and it will work with 52s even though I do not have them. It is an excellent product but if I had to do it over again I would go ahead and buy the Highsteer arms for the tie rod behind the axle, that way there will be no problems with draglink to tierod clearance.

Just my .02

Ira
 
I would get the arms that put the tie rod behind the axle too. If you go more extreme in the future than you are covered. If money is tight then just get the pass arm and get the drivers later
 
Small hi-jack not really are the NWF arms tall enough to clear zero-rates with 52's and an overload?
 
I've got 56s up front with a shakerbuilt arm. The draglink touches the spring at full lock. I'm thinking of going with skys arms. They're pretty thick, and should allow for more clearance.
 
Well I was going to go with Sky too, but now I am thinking. Anybody got a side by side comparison?
 
...i'll be getting my hysteer kit from Sky tomorrow...but won't be able to test it out with the 52s on my '72 until i can get the body back on which will probably in the next month...hopefully i don't run into any problems...lol...
 
I have 5 leaf packs with the overload cut down and an extra leaf from my old 6 inch skyjacker springs. Maybe we could start a "measure your arm" thread and have people measure the height from the top of the kingpin to the tie rod mounting surface.
 
MTBLAZER89 said:
Small hi-jack not really are the NWF arms tall enough to clear zero-rates with 52's and an overload?
Click to expand...

I guarantee it. I've got one of our arms, a lifted 52" spring pack and left the overload in. Loads of space left.
 
NWF or WFO, either way... good stuff good people.

Not sure why people worry about steering arms thickness quite so much... my WFO arm is 1" thick and I have a sneaking suspicion that it is stronger than my stock knuckles are. Anything more than that, unless you've gone to Deadenbear knuckles, would seem like overkill. I run ARP studs and my guess is the knuckle will be the first thing to go.

j
 
1" Arm thickness is fairly standard, as it is what is required by the taper of the TRE to fit properly. Height will make the larger difference as far as compatiblity with thick spring packs.

-Kyle
 
jekbrown said:
NWF or WFO, either way... good stuff good people.

Not sure why people worry about steering arms thickness quite so much... my WFO arm is 1" thick and I have a sneaking suspicion that it is stronger than my stock knuckles are. Anything more than that, unless you've gone to Deadenbear knuckles, would seem like overkill. I run ARP studs and my guess is the knuckle will be the first thing to go.

j
Click to expand...

I was worried about it because on my 10b I had to get a 1" spacer to clear my springs with my D/L:crazy: I don't know how much taller a 60 knuckle is, but it is a concern with 52's an overload and maybe a zero rate what kind of clearance issues may arise.
 
I went with WFO. Got their highsteer passenger arm. Will get the drivers later when money walks into my wallet. Guy was nice to deal with.
 
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