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Why do I keep flooding my engine?

Discussion in 'The Engine Bay' started by GoGoGirl, Mar 14, 2017.

  1. GoGoGirl

    GoGoGirl Registered Member Premium Member

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    OK, here is what I observed today.

    I did not have someone to help me test the electrical aspects of the carb.

    The "toilet flush chain" seems to be throttle-related, in fact I can hear fuel flowing when I manipulate the lever in the engine bay. It looks like a regular throttle to me and my limited knowledge, however it's connected to that knob located at the driver's position. Odd.

    I got in the truck, it had been sitting for about 48 hours, and I did not touch the choke/throttle/mystery knob, I just put the key in and she fired right up. Faster, in fact, than if I followed the PO's directions and "choked" it first! I would say it cranked for 3 seconds, whereas if I choke it like the PO said to do, it takes about 10 seconds of cranking before it starts.

    Granted, maybe it wasn't a true cold start as the solar effect today is intense, but the engine itself hadn't been run in two days. What I mean is, the air temp is about 20 degrees, but the sun is out in full force and probably made the temp under the hood quite warm. My work car is dark-colored and was extremely hot when I opened the door today, despite the snow and ice on the car.
     
  2. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    Sounds like a true cold start to me...
     
  3. Smokinthehippies

    Smokinthehippies 3/4 ton status Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    I agree. I'd say let choke sit for the next few starts and see how the carb does on its on.
     
  4. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    Any time to fiddle with this recently? :ears:
     
  5. GoGoGirl

    GoGoGirl Registered Member Premium Member

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    Nope, need someone else to watch the multimeter while I crank the engine...any day now!

    I did figure out that the engine is a 350, per the valve cover bolts and pattern of exhaust-sparkplug-etc. down the side of the block.
     
  6. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    OK cool. I wasn't sure if I missed an update or not.
     
  7. GoGoGirl

    GoGoGirl Registered Member Premium Member

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    Nope but thank you, it's nice to know that someone cares.

    I will be in training all this week and have zero free time til next weekend :(
     
  8. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    I'm about to rebuild a Q-jet myself for some junk I just bought. I can snap a few pics of various things...
     
  9. GoGoGirl

    GoGoGirl Registered Member Premium Member

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    Sure, thank you!

    My only formal education in anything remotely automotive is small engine repair class in high school, even those simple carbs we never tore down beyond cleaning with spray and changing the floats. I am willing to learn and tackle a vehicle carb with jets and whatnot :)
     
  10. bp71k5

    bp71k5 3/4 ton status Premium Member

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    Sure looks like there's a rubber hose on that carb that doesn't have a plug in it. If so, that would be a big vacuum leak and a big part of the problem.
     
  11. GoGoGirl

    GoGoGirl Registered Member Premium Member

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    Yes there is, and I found some diagram somewhere in my endless searches online where the author said to plug it with a bolt. Which I have yet to do.
     
  12. diesel4me

    diesel4me 1 ton status Premium Member

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    The only real way to I.D. your engine is to look for the code on the block,that is located on the front of the engine,just in front of the passenger side cylinder head...(usually the alternator is bolted above it,you can read it with it installed,but its not easy!)...See the picture below..

    You will have to spray it with carb cleaner and use a rag to wipe it off so the letters and numbers can be read...once you determine what the last 3 letters are,you can look that engine code up online and you can find out what cubic inch it is and what vehicle it came in originally..
    Since every Chevy small block from 1955 to 1986 looks near identical externally,you must do this to pin down just which one you have to get some parts--a lot of small block parts will swap,some will fit and not work right too though.. engine code pad.jpg

    There is a casting number behind the drivers side head next to where the tranny or bellhousing bolts on--that casting number can be used to determine what cubic inch block it is,but it wont tell you if it was a car or truck engine--it does have a date code near it that will tell the production date ..
     
  13. Chucks1911

    Chucks1911 Registered Member Premium Member

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    Judging by the looks of that, I'd be concerned with vacuum leaks too.
     
  14. bp71k5

    bp71k5 3/4 ton status Premium Member

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    Yep, engine will not run until all those leaks are plugged. That's probably 99% of the problem.
     

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