I think they all had model rocket engines mounted under them to light them up.
I would never run this on the K5. I just replace the filter in the carb.Don't forget about these POS. Pretty much guaranteed to leakView attachment 445932
Yikes. bummer. Was your wiring modified from stock? In stock form there are fusible links at the positive side of the solenoid and junction block at the fire wall. Would you recommend fusible links at other locations?Pretty sure mine was my fault. Not exactly sure which part but I believe it started with a battery overheating/shorting. Either way I recommend fusible links in conjunction with relays on the battery side
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On these squarebodies I believe the headlights are not on a relay. So the power runs directly thru the switch at the dash.fuse links won't stop a shorted battery from burning. Or positive cable from shorting out and burning. Best Practice is to keep the fuses as close the source as possible.
When I bought my Yellow dune buggy it had 0 fuses, nada, zip. After I put a new chassis under the body I added 1 fuse link to the power feed. week later I drove it 50ish miles to Big Bear, 1 section of highway 18 is day light head lamps, I turned mine on and drove to Big Bear, about 1/2 a mile from my destination I started smelling insulation smoke. Head light wiring was melting. I stopped and disconnected the battery. It seems I didn't provide the best ground and the headlight circuit had high resistance and started melting. I removed the headlamp circuit from power and had a great week end. Head lamps are over rated anyway. So the fuse link didn't help here draw was to much for the 1 circuit but not the fuse link. I rewired the whole car it now has a real headlamp switch, before was a toggle switch controlling all driving lights.
HeavilyYikes. bummer. Was your wiring modified from stock? In stock form there are fusible links at the positive side of the solenoid and junction block at the fire wall. Would you recommend fusible links at other locations?