I know this isn't exactly related to wheelin' nor is it a question....but a fun story. Over winter break I replaced my old engine with a new edelbrock crate motor (the 310 performer). Everything was ready to run and we proceeded with the suggested break in, 2000 rpm for 30 min. The engine is bolted up, but not bolted to the flex plate....so we're ready to rip. We fire the engine up...lights off almost immediately, life is good. I set the idle screw to around 2000 rpm and sit back. Time left: 29 min - The high heat BBQ paint I put on the headers isn't burning off, but baking on....and releasing a tornado of fumes from my engine. Time left: 25 min - I have MSD clips holding my Taylor Spiro Pro wires together. The ones down by the exhaust start to melt.....one spontaneously catches on fire. I quench it with a rag. I am not amused. Around this point, you could turn the lights off and see each header pipe individually, because the are glowing cherry red. Time left: 21 min - My #5 spark plug boot (600 degree double silicone jacketed mind you) begins to crack open from the heat. I think to myself that it isn't a good thing I can see the actual wire through the insulation.....but whatever....gotta get those 30 minutes in. Time left: 15 min - By now, the paint has stopped fumigating us, the headers are a dull red, and everything seems to be calming down. Then I look at my firewall. All the black ribbed wire looming that I meticulously replaced while the engine is out, is missing. Surprisingly enough, I have a large black puddle on the ground beneath my truck. I am not amused. Time left: 4 min - As the engine heated up, what we didn't notice was the dip stick tube bending away from the engine. Due to some bad plug wire routing, this caused the #6 wire to be pulled away from the plug. Its barely hanging on; I can see the electrode at the end of the plug, and its still arcing the fire the cylinder. Oh why couldn't we leave well enough alone? My father reaches with a metal ruler to try to push the plug back on. Bad idea. As it turns out, metal conducts and my new HEI would rather go through my dad than fire the cylinder. His arm recoiled like nothing I've ever seen. We go at the wire again, this time with a wooden handle. The boot looks fine, the molded shape retaining its original form, even the Taylor 'T' is still perfect. As soon as the wooden handle touches the boot, however, we learn otherwise. Its liquid, not just soft, but honest to god liquid. The boot just turns to mush, the wire pulls out of the boot, falls back to one of the still glowing header pipes, and burst into flames. So now my engine is down a cylinder, and I have fire racing up towards my distributor. I am not amused. Time left: 3 min - Now we decide is a good time to use the fire extinguisher. The powder from it puts out the fire, and promptly turns to glass upon contact with my headers. Now, I'm running this with just the open carb, no filter or anything with the fan going 2000 rpm. Needless to say, I'm sure some extinguisher powder got sucked down the engine....but at this point its the least of my worries. We also decide to not wait out the remaining 3 minutes, being down a cylinder can't be good for the new engine. I kill the ignition without taking the idle screw down. As it turns out, engines don't like running red hot at 2000 rpm for 27 minutes and being shut off immediately. It protests with a large stack fire. I am not amused. I come back the next day to survey the damage. I reach down the pull of the #5 boot that had cracked open preiously and it crumbled in my hand. Like sand. I get new Spiro Pro wires, this time with some 8 inch long fiberglass 1400 degree covers for the boots. I have to replace all the wire looms, but this time I wrap them in heat shield tape. Since I had to retorque the heads anyways, its no big deal to sand down one of my headers and repaint it. If you need high heat paint, get the Rustoleum BBQ paint. They may have been glowing red, but dang it, they were still black (and still are to this day). So about a week later, I go to drive it for the first time, and the speedometer doesn't work. I am not amused. I pull the cable out at the T-Case, and find that it has twisted itself apart....how strange I think to myself. And then it hits me. The speedo cable routes right along the driver side header pipes. Sure enough, the cable fused to its housing in the heat, and when it went to turn, it gave down at the T-Case. I hate my life.