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wierd cooling system problem & noise ? long read but lots of details UPDATE : i think we got it

sweetk30

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so i have the brand new gm L31 engine in my 1987 truck with a edelbrock rpm intake with the 1988-95 style water pump for reverse rotation for serp belt . my heater core feed is intake front right / return rad pass tank top nipple . i have a 195*t-stat with a pin hole drilled in it for burping air as the t-stat with the dingle thingy was 20 bucks more no thanks . rad is a 3 core copper/brass unit for 1981-1991 square body with hd cooling . has a factory shroud on with factory hd fan with thremo clutch that works good .

truck runs 195*-200* all day no problems . tons of winter time heat in the cab no problem . no leaks on the floor from bad heater core .

i was smelling coolant and have checked it 3-4 times no leaks . no loss of coolant . overflow jug is spot on cold line cold and up a inch or so from cold when up to temp.

i notice a growling almost low decibel air horn sound when the t-stat has opened and then i smell coolant . it looks like the system is pushing out the rad cap and in to the overflow tank and sucking it back in . but when i pushes it in the overflow i am getting the hot coolant smell in the cab .

as i said i have not lost any coolant / the rad is to the tip top / overflow working as it should receive and give back .

is there something i missed or did wrong on the system i put together ? or do i just have a super weird weak pressure cap (16psi ) ? or do i need to pull a little coolant from the rad and give a small air bladder of room to keep it from pushing in/out all the time ?

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update : so i still get the weird noise and coolant smell . i stopped and got a fresh bottle of block test fluid from napa since my old bottle went bad . i tested the system warm and not 1 bubble up threw and fluid never changed color .

so i called the dealer i got the engine from and he gave me the gm tech line # to call . so i called and talked with a guy and he was a fellow square body gm truck owner so he knew just was i was describing .

i told him i have supply for heater core from intake to core then return from core to upper nipple on rad tank .

he said that's fine for the older stuff NON vortec head engines . but the way the vortec heads flow water inside its starting to boil the coolant and form gas / air bubbles and this is were i am getting the sound from when i bypasses the rad cap and in to the overflow .

he said try this and it should fix my problem . hook the nipple to the h2o pump top port and feed the heater core . then return the heater core to the intake crossover port .

so i guess i will drain some fluid off and re-route my lines and give this a try unless this dosn't make since to you guys .

i told him i had it hooked up the way my old tbi engine was basically plumbed and he said nope the vortec head flow a bit different .

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so dumped the coolant down below the h20 pump level and flipped the hoses around like the GM corp tech guy said to do .

added a 1/2" pipe thread to 3/4" hose nipple to the h2o pump top port location.
then the 3/4" hose to heater core.
5/8" hose out of heater core to 1/2" pipe thread 5/8" hose nipple on intake front right corner.
then i filled / burped / topped off the system for around 15min and a few t-stat cycles.

i noticed before the test drive a lot less micro size bubbles in the rad tank with the cap off. i also still had lots of heat maybe even a bit faster ? ?

road test i smelled a few hints of coolant but i figure its some i didn't get rinsed off and maybe a few air bubbles working there way out of the system. i spent prob around 20 min driving it the normal way it would do its noise and massive smell before with i would say about perfect results. time will tell if this has fixed it as i still need to get the engine bay dry and no extra coolant on stuff from the work i did .

will report back in a few days with the status of the fix. . . .
smoke.gif


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well the truck has sat for 2 days out in the cold . its 27* out today .

i fired it up and took it out for a trip to the local quicky mart store 3 blocks away . i left it running when in the store for 2 min time . drove the truck home and left it run another min or 2 and when i shut down the truck i was at around 120*F temp range on the digital temp of the efi unit .

few hr's later i go out side and walk past the truck and spot coolant on the ground under heater core area ? ? ? pop the hood and i have no coolant in the jug / rad full and dead cold / coolant has leaked past the heater core 5/8" hose at the core & the radiator hoses all points and i even have a puddle on the intake just off the side of the t-stat hose area .

this was fresh from todays run as the truck is now backed in the same spot and fluid all coming from were it is now .

i think i have a big cooling system problem ! ! !

i cant win with this dam thing .
waah.gif
 
heater core flows good / tons of heat / 15* drop 1 hose to the other .

it was leaking from almost every joint it could when i found it and it has NEVER leaked like this before .

got to do a pressure test tomorrow aspr GM tech line and see what she has going on .

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well pressure tested to 20 psi found a few clamps loose . . . snugged them up and they stopped leaking . must have been heat cycling that got them as they were tight before .

then i left for a parts run in the other vehicle i can use if i have to . left the system for 1:30 time at 20 psi come back at 16 psi and tiny puddle on floor and you guessed it heater core area is damp . . . not sure if its the core tho as the 5/8" hose was one of the leakers before and maybe it pushed in to the cab side before leak outside ? ?

going to dry it up and re-test the system for the heater core area .

this was all done with 55*F shop temp and truck inside for over 12hr's at this temp .

cooling system cap tested and spec on cap is 16psi . i got the cap to start at 15.5psi or so just before the 16psi mark and stop at around 14.5psi mark .
 
i am not worried about the core . got new for it .

my MASSIVE problem is what this whole post is about . building pressure and the system tests out fine . ...... were is it coming from ? ? ?

the core was NOT leaking until the 20psi test of the system . at the 16psi cap running is the problem . its always burping air and going in to the over flow tank .
 
Possible head gasket? I think you mentioned you tested already though. I had a previous vehicle that made that air gurgling sound and turned out it was indeed the head gasket. There were no other symptoms of it.
 
yep block fluid test was clean no color change / no bubbles passed threw / built up pressure with reg air behind the tester tho .
 
Just to clarify things, you are using a TBI water pump on a vortec block? IIRC the l31 block doesn't have a coolant bypass on the front like the tbi blocks do. I believe I had end up using a vortec water pump with one nipple going to the front intake port, and the second going to the heater core. The return line on the heater core I believe I had going to the rear intake port with the nipple on the top passenger side of the radiator capped off.

Here's some pictures of the tbi pump vs vortec.

TBI pump (below) has a bypass built into the block and pump (passenger side extra hole)
TBI pump.jpg
Whereas the vortec pump does not (extra nipple on top). You can drill your block if you really want to use the tbi pump, but I just decided to swap pumps and make my life a little easier. Drilling the thermostat did NOT work for me when I still had this motor (vortec headed 383 stroker with tbi intake + accessories) in my old blazer.
Vortec Water Pump.jpg
 
this vortec block has the 3rd hole in the face to line up with the tbi style water pump i made sure of this .

EDIT : THIS PIC IS WRONG FROM SUMMIT
. this engine if you look is a 95 and older timing cover and intake pattern so it HAS the bypass port showing .

engine : https://www.summitracing.com/parts/nal-12530283/overview/

nal-12530283_us.jpg


i have some work to do on the truck and gaskets are cheep so i might just pull the water pump to verify that hole goes all the way threw the block and in to coolant .

but even if not i have since plumbed it like a bypass hose looping threw the heater core . it stopped a lot of the noise but not all of it .

and when it does happen it pushes so much past the rad cap in to the over flow the smell in the cab is crazy with the blower fan sucking in the fumes .

UPDATE PIC : this 2nd pic shows a vortec engine like i purchased . but i have yet to pull the water pump and confirm if the 3rd hole does go in the block and even function as older blocks do .

F144780492.jpg
 
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You might need a restrictor in the pressure feed line to the heater core. My 96 Impala (LT1) uses one to avoid too much pressure to the core and to keep it from gurgling.
 
You might need a restrictor in the pressure feed line to the heater core. My 96 Impala (LT1) uses one to avoid too much pressure to the core and to keep it from gurgling.
i am not gurgling there . its at the rad pressure cap to the over flow jug . its building lots of air bubbles and has to burp past the cap and in to the overflow jug .

i have used this on the system from cold to full hot and no change . got mine from napa years ago and just got a fresh bottle for this test http://www.blocktester.com/
 
Maybe the pinhole in the stat is not allowing enough coolant to circulate thru the heads prior to the stat opening...thus causing coolant to boil in the heads, even though coolant is circulating thru the water pump and heater core....once the stat opens, you get a big surge of coolant thru the heads, the cap burps and everything settles down . ..
as for the coolant leaks, cold weather plays hell with cold water hose leaks... I go through this with my Cummins almost every year..when the outside temps drop, it starts drooling out of all the hoses...

just spitballin' here... throwing out ideas...
 
Hard to believe you can hear it driving down the road...it's that loud/ noticible?

And that it continues to cycle like that without pushing out all of the coolant..

Does your tester allow you to read the system pressure with the engine running?
will it continue to build pressure beyond the cap burp pressure?

If it is combustion pressure, it's got to be coming from a head gasket or crack into the coolant passages.
a crack can extend into a passage, such as an exhaust port where the coolant is vaporized and you can smell it in the exhaust too.
But your combustion fluid test should rule that out.

do your radiator hoses swell up supporting the pressure readings you are seeing ?

If you can borrow/rent a thermography gun
you may be able to narrow down where the hot spots are being generated..

One more thought....could it just be normal operation? I know once I fill my cooling system in my small block LUV truck, it will burp out coolant until it seeks a level then pulls coolant in and out of the bottle, even though the radiator level itself is about 1 inch below the radiator cap. ..
 
this vortec block has the 3rd hole in the face to line up with the tbi style water pump i made sure of this .

engine : https://www.summitracing.com/parts/nal-12530283/overview/

nal-12530283_us.jpg


i have some work to do on the truck and gaskets are cheep so i might just pull the water pump to verify that hole goes all the way threw the block and in to coolant .

but even if not i have since plumbed it like a bypass hose looping threw the heater core . it stopped a lot of the noise but not all of it .

and when it does happen it pushes so much past the rad cap in to the over flow the smell in the cab is crazy with the blower fan sucking in the fumes .


I would do that, it almost sounds like the pump is pressurizing your system without any by-pass for coolant to go. If that hole on the front of your block doesn't go all the way through (just there to show where to drill if you need it) I wouldn't use the TBI pump, just get the vortec style pump.
 
I was going to ask earlier, are you 100% sure you have a reverse rotation waterpump on there with the serp set-up? Remember the reverse rotation pps did not start until 1989.
 
Hard to believe you can hear it driving down the road...it's that loud/ noticible?

And that it continues to cycle like that without pushing out all of the coolant..

Does your tester allow you to read the system pressure with the engine running?
will it continue to build pressure beyond the cap burp pressure?

If it is combustion pressure, it's got to be coming from a head gasket or crack into the coolant passages.
a crack can extend into a passage, such as an exhaust port where the coolant is vaporized and you can smell it in the exhaust too.
But your combustion fluid test should rule that out.

do your radiator hoses swell up supporting the pressure readings you are seeing ?

If you can borrow/rent a thermography gun
you may be able to narrow down where the hot spots are being generated..

One more thought....could it just be normal operation? I know once I fill my cooling system in my small block LUV truck, it will burp out coolant until it seeks a level then pulls coolant in and out of the bottle, even though the radiator level itself is about 1 inch below the radiator cap. ..
#1 = no radio and no floor covering . i love to hear my vehicle make all its NORMAL sounds .
#2 = burping air not pushing to much coolant and sucks back in any extra when shut off .
#3 = no tester is pass threw for block test . other tester is std unit and you would go BOOM with it hooked up . doing the block test it about blew off in my hand as i removed it and gussed 1.5gal coolant out the filler neck cap.
#4 = no bubbles passed threw the block test unit fluid during test.
#5 = hoses do get there normal pressure . all brand new napa hoses or gates for heater hose .
#6 = might know a guy in the fire dept system :whistle::whistle::whistle:
#7 = i even left a half gal out and it still burped like its been doing . and that half gal got put in the over flow tank and sucked right back in the system once cold .
 
I would do that, it almost sounds like the pump is pressurizing your system without any by-pass for coolant to go. If that hole on the front of your block doesn't go all the way through (just there to show where to drill if you need it) I wouldn't use the TBI pump, just get the vortec style pump.

have to get a new fan setup also then . = junk yard hunt or go electric . :whistle::thinking:
 
I was going to ask earlier, are you 100% sure you have a reverse rotation waterpump on there with the serp set-up? Remember the reverse rotation pps did not start until 1989.
i got the pump for a 90 or 91 maybe even 92 to be sure .
 
didnt pull the pump yet . snow come and had to plow with a carb on the engine ..... i miss efi . . just not the sniper unit .

but here is my thinking maybe i am wrong ? ?

she still is pushing some fluid and possible gas/air/??? in the over flow but not near as bad as before . i mostly smell it a little bit .

at some point i am going to remove the ecm temp sensor from the vortec bypass port some guys us and some dont and re-plumb my setup to go water pump to intake center just under the t-stat and then heater core not sure yet . maybe back to the original way i had it intake to heater core to rad . . .

and i have a 195* t-stat in the engine . anyone think i should maybe drop down to a 180 range unit ? maybe this engine just wants it a little cooler than 195*

page 4 note : https://www.chevrolet.com/content/d...-images/350-ho-base-crate-engine-19210007.pdf
 
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Reading the above spec sheet, it says no matter what you do, you have to have a bypass hose from pump to intake for this engine.
 

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