Wobbling tilt column in Ohio

[oh-zj-io]

Hey all!!!

Back with another problem.

I've done the search and found the old posts about my wobbling tilt column problem. The thing is, I am having a real problem with getting it apart to do the needed tightening. Once I get the aftermarket steering wheel off I can't get any further.

Any thoughts or, better yet, would there happen to be anyone in the Hilliard/Columbus Ohio area that might be able to give me a hand with this? I've got a little cash and some beer... . (I am serious about the help.)

All of the posts are from 2003-2004 and none of the links or pics work any longer. Anyone have any of that stuff?

Thanks,
Al

 

[Desert Yeti]

I may be way off-base here, or you may have already gotten this far, but as I recall...

After taking off the big central nut and unbolting the 3 bolts that hold the aftermarket steering wheel on, you'll need to use a steering wheel puller (3 bolts through a round plate with large threaded shaft through the middle) to pull the metal chunk that the wheel was bolted to off of the steering shaft.

After this you'll need a specialized tool to remove the metal plate you'll find next (I think it's next anyway) that forms the lock of the locking steering column. You can rent the tool at any local parts store... it threads on to the center shaft, then compresses the spring under the plate enough to get the clip off the shaft, allowing the plate to come free.

Then unscrew the turn signal assembly, unscrewing the lever first (if you have cruise, just leave it hanging by the wires, but you'll have enough slack to get the whole assembly out of your way).

At this point I THINK you can see the bolts that need to be tightened to take up the slack in your tilt column, but I can't remember for sure.

Hope this helps!

 

[oh-zj-io]

Hey!

OK, I spent the rest of the evening 'messing' with it. Used a puller for the cast piece the steering wheel bolts to. Rigged a bar with sockets under it and used the big nut from the steering shaft to press the metal plate and pull the retaining ring. Got the turn signal and ignition parts out and pulled the cover piece to expose the tilt parts. There are two pins with threaded centers (tilt pivot pins) that needed to come out. Figured that out talking to the local NAPA. If you get those out you can pull the tilt enough to get to the four 1/4 inch torx head screws that need tightened. But you need a special puller for the pins. NAPA $25. He warned me about trying to put screws in and pulling them. Don't want to break off a screw cause then I am screwed.

I went and bought the $25 puller. The first turn...not even a full turn...and the $25 puller snapped off in the threads!!!!!!!!! I called NAPA and he said, "Boy that sucks. We'll be happy to refund your purchase price but you are in trouble now." Well, kick me in the head!! Now what do I do?????

Sometimes even when you do all the right things you still get screwed. Any thoughts? I'm afraid my only solution now is a complete steering column. Am I right or wrong? HELP!!

Al

 

[Desert Yeti]

Ouch...sorry to hear that man... The column I used to take apart regularly was from an old Camaro... I seem to recall the tilt-tightning-bolts being just bolts, not torx and I don't think I need another special puller to get to them, so I think (unfortunately), you've just moved beyond my meager knowledge.

Anyone else ever deal with this?

 

[Tominator II]

All you need for a puller is a screw about 1 1/4 inch long, a nut, and a stack of washers or a socket that the pin fits inside. Was everything rusty or what. Usually once the pin starts to move it pops right out.

 

[duallyjams]

http://www.chevyasylum.com/column/tiltcol.html I know a day late and a doolar short.This the the linl that shows you how.

 

[oh-zj-io]

Hey!

The things I had read warned about trying to use a screw and the dangers of it breaking off, so, I went ahead and tried it the 'SAFE' way with a puller. Well, as you know, it didn't work. The stupid puller snaped in two first turn and now I am exactly where I didn't want to be.

There is no rust or corrosin or anything. It all looks nice and clean, almost new. I sprayed it with PB and let it set for a while, hoping that it would help, but....

Thanks for the response.

Al

All you need for a puller is a screw about 1 1/4 inch long, a nut, and a stack of washers or a socket that the pin fits inside. Was everything rusty or what. Usually once the pin starts to move it pops right out.

 

[oh-zj-io]

Hey!

Actually, not a wasted effort on your part. No one has indicated that tightening just the two bottom screws that are partially accessable might fix the problem. I will tear it down again and see if that works.

I do have a situation that might keep that from working though. When it was apart, I could get my finger in to one of the screws. It was totally loose and wouldn't seem to 'catch' the threads when I turned it. Do you suppose that it might be broken off or something?

Also, I got the reverse torx E8 socket info. I had only seen it referred to as a 1/4 torx socket, which by the way my son's Craftsman set includes but in a 3/8 drive, and when I asked at NAPA and Sears for a 1/4 drive 1/4 torx socket they both thought I had no idea what I was talking about. Also, there were none in stock when I looked on their shelves.

I will find that socket in a 1/4 drive then tear it down again. (Any chance that's a typo and it should be a T8 reverse torx?)

Thanks for your help!

Al

http://www.chevyasylum.com/column/tiltcol.html I know a day late and a doolar short.This the the linl that shows you how.

 

[Tominator II]

You just need the right size 12 pt socket.