CK5
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wont start after new trans installed

Are you holding the clutch in? Are you sure the clutch works correctly?
 
Im not holding the clutch in. When reinstalling the master cylinder to the bell housing which I never disconnected hoses from i just re bolted it to the bellhousing. Could that have an effect on it? We just got hit with snow so I haven't had a chance to take another look at it but hopefully I can today after work.
 
Im not holding the clutch in. When reinstalling the master cylinder to the bell housing which I never disconnected hoses from i just re bolted it to the bellhousing. Could that have an effect on it? We just got hit with snow so I haven't had a chance to take another look at it but hopefully I can today after work.


To clarify you said you've got the trans in neutral with the clutch in correct?
 
The trans is in neutral but the clutch is up. Im startin it from outside the truck. I don't have the safety device on my clutch that requires the clutch to be down when starting
 
Well try holding the clutch in when starting, just be careful. And did you verify the trans turns over freely?
 
trans in neutral....pull the plugs out of the motor....rotate the crank 360° a few times with a breaker bar on the front crank bolt and see if you feel any resistance through the rotation....It should feel smooth.

If you feel it binding,,,something my be wrong in the trans or when you put the trans back in....

did you slide the bell housing flush with the block before you put the bolts in the bell housing ??? Or did you use the bolts to pull it up flush ?

Maybe the input shaft was not aligned with the pilot bearing and you smashed it bolting it down.....

If it all feels smooth...then I would look at starter issues...bad grounds etc..

just thinking outloud here...
 
Def will try that. I had the bellhousing half way in the dowels and I pushed the trans the rest of the way in by bolting it in. Id say about half an inch. I figured that was a safe distance that everythinwould be lined up right to bolt it the rest of the way in
 
Well, the general rule is, when something is working, you do something and it does not work anymore than you assume its related to what you did.

In this case, it sure sounds like something is misaligned or binding.

However, there is always the possibility of a coincidence here and something is hydro-locking the engine.

Go ahead and pull all the plugs and see if that lets it turn over. If so, what squirted out the plug holes? Gas or water?

If it still does not spin, then its almost certainly going to be something related to the transmission swap.

The next thing to try, is to get someone to hold down the clutch while you crank it. If the clutch is working, that will tell if its in the tranny or not.

I suppose its possible that the shaft did not go into the pilot bearing and the clutch disk is binding.

Don't see how you could have bolted it all the way up if so.

The fact that it cranks for about 3 seconds at first sure sounds like hydro-locking.

I suppose if the transfer case were locked, there might be enough slack in the gears and bearings ahead of it to let it crank that far......
 
i agree. at this point, id have someone hold the clutch down and crank it, if it fires right up, if nothing else youve eliminated the engine as a possible cause of the issue. that leaves only the trans and tcase.

most of diagnosing a problem as we all know is eliminating other isht.
 
I pulled the plugs and it sounds like it is spinning fine now.however when I crank it is at a different pitch. I manually cranked the motor from the crank bolt and when I first started it sounded like a grinding noise but now it spins smooth and freely. Is it normal for the starter to crank at a different pitch with the plugs out?
 
Also I tried starting it with the clutch down before I pulled the plugs andit did the same thing. It sounds lime it was about to fire for a quick second but didn't get anything
 
It will sound different with the plugs out, it spins faster and sounds different because of the lack of compression.

After reinstalling the plugs did it act better/crank?
 
Im in the process of putting them back in. Also I think that quick grinding noise when I manually cranked the engine was the starter not being fully disengaged cause it did the same thing again after I cranked the engine. I think im gonna pull the starter to and take it to get tested
 
yeah, with the plugs out theres less resisitance to turning it over, no compression, just spinning. so it will spin at a higher speed, and thus pitch.

curious to see what turns out to be the problem. this one is befuddling.
 
I got the plugs back in. And its doin the same thing. I took the starter out to get tested but that would re rel ironic that the starter goes as I swap the trans. I think the battery is getting low now too. Im Getting just under twelve volts between the battery posts
 
cheap trickle charger... worth its weight in gold in these instances.

if youre taking the starter in to get checked, id take the battery too just to be on the safe side.
 
The starter ended up failing. I didn't test the battery as I was already at the store when I saw that post. I got a new one to install tomorrow but for some reason im still skeptical that's the problem. Will see what happens though. I hope it is the problem and she will crank up tomorrow
 
Well, if it cranked with no plugs, that at least indicates that the transmission is not locked up.

I don't guess you saw anything shoot out the plug holes. You would almost certainly have to see it if there was enough in there to lock a piston.

Sure starting to sound like a bad starter, wire or battery.
 
That would be a nice and easy fix. Its just weird to me that it would go bad out of the air like that. Definitly possible but strange to me the coincidental timing of it since it was runnin fine a few days prior
 
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