CK5
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Working on a 71 Jimmy....

The silver colored striker attached to the door jamb looks to be a 4 7/8" ASA strike plate

Ah! Gotcha...yep you are correct. Set it up there for mockup to see where it may be easiest to get a striker and slam latch working good.

You are giving me motivation for mine. Nice job!
Loving your build, can't wait for more!

Sweet, thanks guys!

Got a np203 yesterday for $40 to start doubler work.

Im 3 steps away from having a driver.....SKY Crossover installed (mailman needs to hurry up and drop it off lol), Doubler installed (probably going Staz or Jeds), Drivelines built (locally, probably all 1350, maybe 1410).

Too bad it will be cold by the time all that goes in....over the winter I will do the interior and be ready to go at the first sign of spring!
 
This weekend I installed the SKY Crossover Steering Kit.

This is my official plug for SKY, the quality and strength is incredible, and the price cant be beat. Look at the size of the Arm.... Also the draglink is very thick wall. They send everything including the grease zerts.

Since I was under there with the Tire off, changed to a couple new Grade 8 bolts on the spring plate (Had crappy long studs with stacked washers previous for mockup)

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Front recovery points are now in place.

Side note: my dad is a vet and is always using military terms like "Sierra Hotel" and "SNAFU" etc....Which has grown on me and led me to the official naming of this truck. Pic speaks for itself lol

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All the Lens are now clear with correctly colored LED's, front back and sides.

Some Quick remove mirrors on the tube doors using a light mount.

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Do you have any photos of the LED taillights before you installed them?

I'm wondering how deep they are compared to the stock setup (lens & metal bucket) and if you re-use the bucket for the LED taillight. :thinking:


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Thanks everyone.

Greg, I never snapped a photo of the lens before install, but Id be happy to get one for you. Its only 2 screws to get them back off lol. I will get a side by side comparison pic with the stock red ones

I re-used the old bucket. These were a little thicker lens than the stock ones, but they still seem to sit flush with the metal. :waytogo:


On a side note....why the hell does everything look distorted in my pics? Trust me, when you are standing right in front of the truck its not cock-eyed and tilted. Must be stupid camera (or stupid operator)
 
Ok this thing needs a doubler, and Ive had a hard time finding a good used deal on a np205 with the 32 spline from a th400. That's what everybody calls for...ORD, NWF etc.

My truck had the 27 spline th350 style np205 stock, and so the bearing is smaller and to change the input shaft would be a pain or more expensive than waiting to find the right transfer case.

While back I found a Th350 style Np203 and adaptor, so I know i can mount the range box to my Th350....

Well i found a very cheap 205 from an 86 chevrolet 1-ton that was mated to a TH400. Looks to have the 32 spline long input shaft (would have to be changed for short shaft), and I guess a slip yoke rear output. It also has some sort of PTO that ran a 12k generator. All this stuff works flawlessly and the date on the 205 is March 13th 1986.

So now I have all kinds of crap, any advice on what I need or don't need to make the doubler? Anybody know anything about this style or brand of PTO?

First 4 Pics are the 86 np205, last pic is the 203 and adaptor...

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Sure, its very easy really....

First of all I just ebay'd myself some clear lenses for the the 4 markers on the sides and 2 front turn signals. I decided to re-use the old clear backup lense's

The rear brake lights were actually a kit on ebay with clear lenses and internal red LED's, so its just a bolt on, where the wires plug into the old light socket. I kept the stock metal cups and socket behind.

To get all the markers and turn signals going, I went to: http://www.superbrightleds.com
and just ordered the compatible LED bulbs, they are simple plug and play into the original sockets.

Thats when I realized you need a load resistor on the blinkers, because the voltage is so slight to power and LED vs a filament bulb. Same website has those too, so I just wired them in and the blinkers work. The rear tail Clear/Red LED kit already has the load resistors in the circuit board so no change there.

Anything Im forgetting or your still wondering about?
They are way way brighter and crisper than the stock. plus they are alot more "Instant on" when you touch the brake pedal.

I would get some pics of them lit up at night, but I'm in the middle of the American Autowire kit, and all the wires are pulled at the moment
 
About time to make some progress.

Rear end was sitting too low for me in relation to the front, and was only going to get worse when the rear seat, spare, cage etc goes in.

Installed a Rough Country add-a-leaf to the pack each side out back as well as a 4deg steel shim to set the yoke angle perfect. Was able to just pull the tires, drop the axle 1 side at a time, unbolt the pack, add the leaf in, add the shim, longer bolt, compress with C-clamp - Walla.

Before and after pics. Added about 2" to the back

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Rear seat needs to be setup. Also decided to go Pork-Chop on some tool-boxes. Seems like a perfect setup for the small rear area to work with on these Jimmy's.

Decided to go simple on the rear seats which are pulled from a yukon 3rd row.
Unbolted all the stock bracketry, pulled the covers, and welded a tube frame to the steel inside the seat. Set it up to match the height of the front seats, and got it ready to bolt to the floor, once I get some backing plate. Will finally get it welded to the frame as well. Seats have 3 sets of seatbelts, including shoulder belts.

So this stage isnt finished but you get the idea. Toolbox's work nice for a tone of lockable storage and serve dual duty as arm-rests and eventually cup-holders and maybe even speakers. Everything will get Rhino Lined black after its all setup.

Also working on some Light brackets on the cowl, just test fit for now that will have control-lights on them. (handle and moveable)

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Sweet Setup! What year yukon seats did you use? I did some measurements on my tub, the yukon seats on ebay I was looking at were 54". I only have room for 50" seat. Yours looks like they fit great!
 
You have to make sure and get a "3rd row" set from the newer body style Yrs 2000-2006.

They are all over my local Craigslist here for like $50 a set, they seem to work great. If you want to do more setup and work than me, you can get the mounting cups on ebay as well and have them fold/flip forward on the stock bracketry :saweet:

Here is whats next..let you guess

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Those darn TrailReady guys were running a closeout on there steel beadlocks and sucked me in. Oh well these are really bad-azz and im tickled to get rid of the 80's style sawblade rims.....

Long story short....its quite a process getting these mounted up correctly in the garage. I added 12oz of balancing dyna-beads to each wheel as well. wonder how its gonna work...but heard good things about them.

my buddy there been through all the build...have to give him the second set of keys when she finally done.:hack:

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SCORE another for Craigslist!
1971 GMC Model - WARN Bumper

Found It on accident but it was a must buy and is in great shape. A coat of primer and paint will make it new again.

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Thanks Yukon :-)

Jed's Machining has shipped my doubler adaptor for the Np203/205 with a set of sticks. Transfer cases are on the bench ready to go.

BroncoBob is bending up my cage right now as well, sent him all the measurements this week for heights and layout I wanted. I will weld it all together and set it up in the next couple weeks. I was tempted to get bender and do it myself, but thought this step had too much of a learning curve and when safety is involved you have to do it right. It will be 8 pt family style, with 2" tube.

Not long and I will be measuring for drive-shafts. Can almost see the light at the end of the tunnel (maybe)
 
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