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"WRAPTOR" anti wrap bar.

jekbrown said:
hey Kert, maybe you could post up some rough dimensions with respect to how much room you need to mount the wraptor the traditional way. I have a truggy + doubler... things ought to fit (if they won't, I'll make them fit!)... but it'd be good to know what kinda room the system needs in "directly over the driveshaft" orientation...

j
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In a truggy application it probably won't be a problem. Floor gets in the way pretty quick on a blazer. My blazer will be getting a center mount anti wrap at some point but there isn't much floor in mine and if it does get in the way it'll have less floor.
 
j20m715 said:
When are they gonna be ready for the blazers ?

I am wanting a truss, anti wrap bar, inboard shock kit, lower shock mounts, pinion guard & diff cover.

I would like the lower shock mounts built on the truss.

Any kind of "package" deal ?
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X2, if you could email me at [email protected]. Thanks
 
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noahrob said:
Only 1981 and newer on the Blazers?
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The older blazers have a different shaped frame. I believe 81 was where the change was made. We set it up on an 85.

We will be getting back to the older blazers soon. If I were to have to guess, the older blazers will probably have a cross member much closer in shape to the pickups, as they had a straight frame.

That being said the only differences are in the crossmember.
 
guz71 said:
on the blazer units, will it limit articulation??great looking product by the way.
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That's somewhat of a loaded question!:eek1: Anything attached to the axle and frame has the potential to limit articulation. Tis the nature of the beast. We've done everything we can to prevent this from occuring but I don't want to say it will never limit articulation.
 
does pinion angle affect the kit(mounting it wise). sorry for all the questions, im really looking at buying it along with a bunch of other stuff this summer from you.
 
guz71 said:
does pinion angle affect the kit(mounting it wise). sorry for all the questions, im really looking at buying it along with a bunch of other stuff this summer from you.
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What is your pinion angle in degrees?
 
umm im not sure what the angle is but I have a cv shaft in the rear. Im running your shackle flip n switch in the rear with 4.5(eye to eye) shackles with a 3 degree shim. Im waiting till i swap in 56's in the back before I do something about my axle wrap. just trying to figure out what exactly Im going to do this summer
 
guz71 said:
umm im not sure what the angle is but I have a cv shaft in the rear. Im running your shackle flip n switch in the rear with 4.5(eye to eye) shackles with a 3 degree shim. Im waiting till i swap in 56's in the back before I do something about my axle wrap. just trying to figure out what exactly Im going to do this summer
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When ya get there, take a measurement and I can build to suit.
 
Hey kert, do you have any pics of this installed in a blazer or truck that has a t-case and driveshaft in it? I was under my truck the other day and i held up the wraptor crossmember to the frame and i couldn't see how the wrap bar would go in without it hitting the driveshaft.

I'm just having a hard time seeing where the crossmember is supposed to go.

Thanks
 
Cross member should be placed in front of the spring buckets.

Refresh my memory, make model and such?
 
From your build thread it looks as though you have a late 80's to early 90's blazer.

If this is the frame your using, there is a roll in the frame just ahead of the frame buckets. It goes right there. About the only place it will fit on the frame.

This is provided you bought the blazer model, seeing as how you have more of a flat bed going on you could have went with either model. I don't have my records in front of me.

Now, that being said if you have an extremely long drive train you may run into clearance issues with the drive shaft.

This was all R and D'd on a blazer with no lift so you shouldn't have any problems. Additional lift would add clearance to the drive shaft.
 
alright next time I'm at my bro's house I will try and place the crossmember in front of the spring buckets. The model I got from you was a blazer version with a centered wrap bar. I will be running a 203/205 doubler behind my 700r4 so hopefully that won't cause a problem. Also the rear of the truck needs to be raised an inch or two because its currently sitting low in the rear and I may use my zero-rate to move the axle back another 1.5 inches to increase departure angle
 
muddermilitia said:
alright next time I'm at my bro's house I will try and place the crossmember in front of the spring buckets. The model I got from you was a blazer version with a centered wrap bar. I will be running a 203/205 doubler behind my 700r4 so hopefully that won't cause a problem. Also the rear of the truck needs to be raised an inch or two because its currently sitting low in the rear and I may use my zero-rate to move the axle back another 1.5 inches to increase departure angle
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Up in the rear will help with clearance while axle moving back will bring it back closer again.

If its a problem just let me know. We'll work with ya on the crossmember. We always stand behind our stuff! 100%
 
cybrfire said:
Up in the rear will help with clearance while axle moving back will bring it back closer again.

If its a problem just let me know. We'll work with ya on the crossmember. We always stand behind our stuff! 100%
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Alrighty, that's good to know :D
 
How about offsetting the upper tube and then attaching the lower tube to the diff below the pinion where the guardsman is and bringing it fwd under the driveshaft until it gets close to the top and then kick over and connect to the upper tube - to protect the 'shaft. Lower tube would have to be beefy. I think that's how I'm gonna build my antiwrap.
 
First off I want to say this looks like an awesome product that I would love to get for my burb when i get to that point. 2 quick questions though. First, would this work with on an axle that has had the ballistic fab shave kit and diff cover on? And second I will be putting 64 inch springs on my burb, from what I have read you have to move the front mount up a couple inches. Does anyone know if you can do that and keep that cross member there, or if there would be any interference there?
 
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