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Yukon Grizzly Lockers...

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PhredzK512

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I stopped in at a local auto shop n noticed they had Yukon Grizzly Products and what caught my eye was a Grizzly Locker,.. I talked with the store salesman and he sounded pretty convincing about the product. I told him I thought of the Eaton Tru Trac for my '87 K5 but he said the Yukon Grizzly Lockers are just as good if not better. Whats anybodys experience with these lockers? :dunno:
 
I don't know about grizzly lockers, but you do know that a tru-trac is not a locker, right?? I don't want to sound rude by any means. I have a tru-trac in my '70 K10 with a 462BB. I really like it for that truck, but it is not a locker as far as ultimate traction. In this truck, it is always working but is more forgiving than a locker which makes a big difference in the snow, but also on dry pavement. My truck is also about 700lbs. lighter in the rear compared to the front. I think it really depends on what you want to do with your rig and how it's built. Tell us some more!
 
6872xtc said:
I don't know about grizzly lockers, but you do know that a tru-trac is not a locker, right?? I don't want to sound rude by any means. I have a tru-trac in my '70 K10 with a 462BB. I really like it for that truck, but it is not a locker as far as ultimate traction. In this truck, it is always working but is more forgiving than a locker which makes a big difference in the snow, but also on dry pavement. My truck is also about 700lbs. lighter in the rear compared to the front. I think it really depends on what you want to do with your rig and how it's built. Tell us some more!
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I intend to be up in the mtns where there's deep mudholes & creeks to cross and also trudging in the snow and climbing some steep hills to get a good birds eye view of things. I know I can somewhat depend on my stock limited-slip diff's but I would rather be re-assured that I would have the ultimate traction to both wheels.
 
You don't have stock limited slip diff's. You may have a stock Gov-Lock in the rear axle.

Martin
 
had a tru trac in the front of k5 in my dana44 it worked good in mud,sand and snow but when i was on hard dirt or rocks it would give and only one tire would spin like a open diff. :doah:
 
I've got a grizzly in the rear of my suburban. It works fine in all conditions for me...snow on the road hasn't been a problem and it rocks offroad.
 
I've got a grizzly in the rear of my truck and it's been good so far. No trail time on it yet but it locks/unlocks just like it should and with some practice isn't bad at all on the street, just have to lay off the throttle on turns.
 
82355 said:
You don't have stock limited slip diff's. You may have a stock Gov-Lock in the rear axle.

Martin
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Yea,..yer right, I don't know my diff's that good anyway, but just that I want to be like everyone else n upgrade from whats stock. Since I have this K5 and I can get aloto interchangeable parts,...why not?!!!
 
I have a Grizzly Locker in my 88 K5 Blazer which I put a 14 BFF in with 4:56 gears. It was built to play in the mountains of Washington State. Worked great for the first couple of years but now it is starting to make a ratcheting noise while driving around town. Sounds like it is trying to lock and unlock while driving in a straight line. Figured a spring was broken so I took it all apart and inspected it and no borken springs. In fact it looked brand new still. Re-installed the locker and it still makes the same noise. Any one have any suggestions on what may be causing this problem, please let me know.
 
Can you put the spider gears back in and make sure it's the locker that's making the noise? Have you jacked it up and done the "locker" test?
 
I don't have the spider gears. I bought the open differential without the gears to install the locker. The original rear end did not have an open differential and I don't have the original parts to place back in for a test. I did jack it up to test the lockers and passes with no problems. Seems to happen when I drive it for about 5 miles and it heats up then the noise starts. Checked all of my clearances and everything is within spec. What other component could make a ratcheting sound if it is not the locker you think?
 
I'm thinking I am just going to go back to a set of spider gears. New set is about $150 unless someone has a set for a 30" spline 14 BFF from a 1978 Chevy K20 they would like to sell me cheap? :-)
 
Wonder if the spring tension is crap. Might not be broken but you might need a new one. Not sure. Sorry, I'm taking my spare spiders to BB, just in case.
 
I have the powertrax, which works very similar to the other lunchbox lockers (true trac, grizzly). It's a good upgrade from the factory gov-bomb, definitely engages better w/ less wheel spin before doing so. On the gas, it acts like a locker; off the gas, it disengages and allows differentiation around corners. I've been in ice, snow and deep mud and it's never acted like an open rear end when on the gas.

Mine made some ratcheting noises, too. I put in an extra bottle of the GM friction modifier and haven't heard a thing since.
 
pierce88K5 said:
I'm thinking I am just going to go back to a set of spider gears. New set is about $150 unless someone has a set for a 30" spline 14 BFF from a 1978 Chevy K20 they would like to sell me cheap? :-)
Click to expand...

I'll trade you.

Martin
 
pierce88K5 said:
I don't have the spider gears. I bought the open differential without the gears to install the locker. The original rear end did not have an open differential and I don't have the original parts to place back in for a test. I did jack it up to test the lockers and passes with no problems. Seems to happen when I drive it for about 5 miles and it heats up then the noise starts. Checked all of my clearances and everything is within spec. What other component could make a ratcheting sound if it is not the locker you think?
Click to expand...

Air pressure in the tires need to be equal. If one of the tires has more or less air (and in some cases 1 psi difference) it will cause the locker to engage/disengage and make the ratcheting sound.

Tread wear can also be a factor.
 
wheels87k5 said:
Air pressure in the tires need to be equal. If one of the tires has more or less air (and in some cases 1 psi difference) it will cause the locker to engage/disengage and make the ratcheting sound.

Tread wear can also be a factor.
Click to expand...


Always a good thing to check. Some lockers (like Detroits) get a reputation for being tempermental on the street, and most of the time the problem is tire pressure or tread related because they're sensitive to variance.
 
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