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Making a WinALDL cable..... plus the results of my first run!

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by jjlaughner, Jun 11, 2004.

  1. jjlaughner

    jjlaughner 3/4 ton status

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    Bring this back to the top with a cable how to
    The parts are cheap!
    [​IMG]

    You need two resisitors
    [​IMG] with this stripping, I believe they where the 1k type

    transistor
    [​IMG]

    then you need about 8feet of cable, the 9pin serial connector and ends
    this is the basic layout for the parts
    [​IMG]
    I used the pieces of a broken cable to show the layout. The transistor is suppost to have three pins the center one connects to a resistor and goes up to the white wire. On the ground side you can see where it hooks in, then the resistor going to the left actually turns and come back to the middle when you plug it into the serial end.

    pic of someone elses cable inside (I taped mine up already)
    [​IMG]


    Under the dash I unbolted the ALDL port so I could check the wire setup. The black wire is ground so you connect the black wire from your WinALDL cable to that port and then there is an orange wire in the ALDL that should be in E (or the 5th one over, second from the end) that the data line goes into.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    See my results below and help me interpret them!


    My baseline run started with me sitting at a stop sign, I reached over and clicked the start log... (see RPM graphic below) as I sat for a second I pulled out onto the road in drive (not OverDrive since I just put the 35's on haven't regeared yet). I put the peddle about half way down and let it shift through first and second, once in third I left it roll for about 15seconds then I gave it a punch and wound it up and left off, just before I turned off the road I reached over and clicked stop log on the WinALDL program.
    [​IMG]
    Here is a graph from excel of the data recieved from a 90 second drive
    [​IMG]
    actual log here in HTML format

    sensor data from the run
    [​IMG]

    update: Cable is working and I have an idle test, a baseline cruise with a skinny peddle jab towards the end (speaking of, the 35" MTR's run great up to about 64MPH so far (or 72MPH actuall -using speed calculator from 4low.com going from 31 to 35's) , thats what my graph shows for the RAW:speed during the jab. if you go by the speed sensor I hit 103MPH at 3825RPM /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif). OH I ran in Drive instead of OVER DRIVE since I'm running the 3.08;s for now. I'm going to toss some 31's on and run a couple base lines, then after the 4.56 swap I'm going to run a couple baselines with the 35's.

    So give me a run down on the:

    IAC CT MAP TPS INT O2 data... whats what and what do I need to look for? the RAW:o2 is all over the boards, RAW:CT decreases during the whole run, the rest to look to rise and fall with the RPM's or stay constant.
    I'll get some graphs and info up here as soon as I pull the data off the laptop to here.
    I got a rich flag popped up when I was speeding up, I'm guessing thats normal.
    The knock counter hit 73 at idle, at around 55-65MPH it pegged out at 99 the whole time.
    voltage was nailed at 14.3 and 14.4 with the stereo/amp and clearence lights running, 14.5 at idle.



    *********************************************************************
    Made a cable and plugged it in to the laptop, got the COM1 = OK but no info?
    tried on second vehicle... nothing

    tried plugging it in and turning the truck on,
    tried starting the truck and then booting up the computer
    checked to make sure they where plugged in right and the black wire was on the ground and the white connector (ont he winaldi cable) was on the orange data (E) spot. /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif
    Checked to see if the modem was on COM1 and its not, serial cable is good and we just got the connections fixed up and insulated each layer with electrical tape /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif

    I'm going to pull the cable apart and double check the connections.

    anyone done this?
     
  2. Bubba Ray Boudreaux

    Bubba Ray Boudreaux 1 ton status

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    Re: ayone make a winaldi cable and get it to wrok?

    I think BadDog has..................
     
  3. BadDog

    BadDog SOL Staff Member Super Moderator Author

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    Re: ayone make a winaldi cable and get it to wrok?

    Yep, I've got one that works fine. Double check your connections. Specifically, make sure you have the correct diode and that it is wired in right. That's about the only thing I can think of that would be easy to mix up...

    Also try to use it without the jumper resistor at the plug. Some units will require that jumper to start downloading, others it screws up. Mine works fine with or without the jumper, that info comes from the guy who made WinALDL.
     
  4. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Re: ayone make a winaldi cable and get it to work?

    Just got done getting mine to work. Pretty hokey looking cable, but it works. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif (my log)

    My problem was not paying attention to the pinout. The wires are supposed to go to the numbered terminal on the connector, but the schmatic that you find online has the connector "reversed". The pin #'s are right, just ignore the orientation of the connector in the picture. This is still pretty fresh in my mind since I had to "fix" mine two days ago, so if you want me to walk you through it, PM me or we can try to resolve it here in the open.
     
  5. zcarczar

    zcarczar 1/2 ton status

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    Re: ayone make a winaldi cable and get it to work?

    Yup i made one and it works fine. I now use a WINALDL cable through a serial-USB adaptor cable.
     
  6. jjlaughner

    jjlaughner 3/4 ton status

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    Re: ayone make a winaldi cable and get it to work?

    pins in the serial cable or the pin in the aldi under the dash?
     
  7. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Re: ayone make a winaldi cable and get it to work?

    Just the pins on the sereial cable...the ones you solder your wires to. If you hold the cable end up like they show in the picture, their pinout is reversed.

    pinout

    If you hold your cable up so the connector is facing you (like in the diagram) pin 5 is actually on the left, and 2 is on the right. Stupid mistake on my part, but according to my serial cable, that diagram of the connector is wrong.

    I like the idea of splicing in a "real" connector to the ALDL itself, since there is no real clean/solid way to hook up to the ALDL. However, if you are end up with bare wire ends, you can solder a piece of a small paperclip to the wire, and that works fairly well to stay in place, and allows you to insert/remove without putting as much wear and tear on the fragile wire.

    My '165 ECM will run either 160 baud or 8192 baud, (not sure about the TBI ECM, I would guess yes) I will be converting to 8192 so I can get better tables for PROM burning.
     
  8. jjlaughner

    jjlaughner 3/4 ton status

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    Re: ayone make a winaldi cable and get it to work?

    sweet, I'll switch those around and try it out later today /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif

    IT WORKS!!!!! /forums/images/graemlins/woot.gif /forums/images/graemlins/woot.gif /forums/images/graemlins/woot.gif /forums/images/graemlins/woot.gif /forums/images/graemlins/woot.gif
    AWESOME /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif /forums/images/graemlins/peace.gif
    I wonder why that image is backward? the setup is correct. /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
     
  9. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Re: got my winaldi cable working, and I got a couple base lines, what now?

    Still learning how to interpret those myself...

    TPS you want right in the .5V range at idle. Have to go check my log, but I don't think winALDL expresses TPS as the voltage. Am I wrong? On that note, just make sure it increases in proportion to throttle, with no flat spots or "0's" through it's travel. My autoxray works well on "monitor" for this, but I only use it because it is very quick and easy to pull codes and basic data.

    Didn't read through this yet, but I saw 128, I know that is BLM stuff. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif any good?

    O2 is supposed to be "all over the place" since it is only accurate at pretty much 14.7:1...at WOT it should consistently be rich obviously, but other than that, you are basically watching rich/lean, thats it. The voltage changes faster than you can monitor, since the voltage "window" for 14.7:1 is so narrow.

    How fast was knock climbing? If you've got an assistant, have someone tap the block or exhaust manifold with a hammer in the area and see if it climbs. Lots of knock will retard timing. I'm not "up" yet on what is a lot of knock. Since my setup isn't working right, I didn't get too much data on knock. You know the table that shows what cell you are running in, and how much knock (I guess that is what it is showing) you are seeing? I set the laptop up and ran around the block a few times, trying to induce knock, and I got up to only 8 counts in one cell, while most were empty, and if not, just 1 or 2 counts. Again, not even sure if those are knock counts, but if they are, that might give you an idea on what to compare with. Obviously you don't want knock at all, but I'm kind of thinking that all engines will see a little bit of knock once in awhile.
     
  10. blazup1x

    blazup1x Registered Member

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    Re: got my winaldi cable working, and I got a couple base lines, what now?

    Just purchased a laptop myself for my vortec Tbi conversion and I ordered my cable from a company back east and I hope I can finally get the right chip for my set up! /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  11. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    Re: got my winaldi cable working, and I got a couple base lines, what now?

    Who sells pre-made cables?
     
  12. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Re: got my winaldi cable working, and I got a couple base lines, what now?

    I see them on ebay all the time.

    You can make one for about $9 and it is very simple.
     
  13. jjlaughner

    jjlaughner 3/4 ton status

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    Re: got my winaldi cable working, and I got a couple base lines, what now?

    RPM graph
    [​IMG]

    sensor data
    [​IMG]
     
  14. jjlaughner

    jjlaughner 3/4 ton status

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    Re: got my winaldi cable working, and I got a couple base lines, what now?

    here's a new pic
    [​IMG] /forums/images/graemlins/peace.gif

    laptop in truck
    [​IMG]
     
  15. y5mgisi

    y5mgisi 1 ton status

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    Re: got my winaldi cable working, and I got a couple base lines, what now?

    i know nothing. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif But how bout some pics of your cable you made. /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif
     
  16. jjlaughner

    jjlaughner 3/4 ton status

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    Re: Making a WinALDL cable.....

    TOP! /forums/images/graemlins/ears.gif
     
  17. cdoggwsu

    cdoggwsu 1/2 ton status

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    Bringing this bad boy back from the grave.:D

    I wanted to use a USB cable but everything at www.aldlcable.com seems way overpriced. $60 for the USB, $60 for the serial, $60 for the diy kit:doah:, $60 for the bare pin...:confused::confused::confused: The moded cable is only $15, but I have no idea how to terminate the USB end. eGhey's only results were $70:eek1:. I guess it will have to be serial.

    Anyway, I'd like this mainly to monitor general function and collect one particular SES light error that only comes on occasionaly and, of course, never when I have a scan tool handy.

    Thoughts, opinions, experiences?
     
  18. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Usually you can figure the problem out as long as you can get the intermittent code. It's quite possibly a weak connection in that circuit.

    When I was looking, Mastech (SP?) was selling cables a bit more reasonably than others. For the effort involved, I suspect what they sell for elsewhere is still not a rip off.
     

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