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04 2500HD Fuel Pump Replacement *pics pg 2*

496truck

496truck

1/2 ton status
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Location
Carver MA
My dads fuel pump is just getting progressively louder and louder. So, as a preventive to iminent failure we're gonna replace it this weekend. The truck is an 04 GMC 2500 HD ext cab short bed and I got a new pump assembly from the dealer. The plan is to remove the bed instead of drop the tank for easier access and no real way to get the truck high enough to work under it comfortably.

Anyway, someone here done one of these pumps yet? Any special tools I may need? Anything to watch out for? I don't want to show up at his house empty handed if I need to bring something specific. Thanx!
 
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Around here, if its not an almost new showcase type truck, at least 3 of the local mechanics offer the option of putting in an access hatch in the bed.
I have not seen a kit yet, but they may be out there.

Closing the hole up afterward is a little different for each place. Some places just put down a plate with sheet metal screws.
Some only cut 3 sides and bend the tab back down and attach a hold down tab.

One place drills holes in the 'valleys' of the bed, and then saws through the holes.
They also drill some holes farther along the bed.
They make strips of metal with nuts welded on the back side the same size as the ridges, longer than the hole.

They attach them under the bed with screws through the extra holes. Then they put the piece back and lay strips on top in the grooves of the bed and put screws down through the two halves of the holes through the top strips.

There may be more to it than that, I only see the finished product.

I don't know how they determine where to cut for sure. Most of them have done it so many times they don't have to do much measuring.

I do know that the charge for a replacement is a lot cheaper if they cut the hole instead of dropping the tank.

And at least two guys I know have had the second pump put in.
It was a lot cheaper on the trucks that had already been cut.
 
Though I appreciate the input, I'm not cutting a hole in the bed. It's only like 6 or 8 bolts, a plug or two for the lights, and the three screws for the filler neck, then lift it off with the ol' John Deere backhoe.

The question was more for the pump replacement itself. If the lines are held on with special retainers that need a special release tool or if the pump is held in the tank with some new fangled lock ring that needs some proprietary socket or something...
 
A lot of times the lines going in are very rusty, and are brittle. The retaining ring usually isn't too bad. I would make sure the assembly would be available nearby if needed. They usually are.

We usually back the truck into a 2 post bay, and use ratchet straps on each corner post and raise the bed that way. A lot easier than lifting with 4 guys. Could be done with block and tackle under a tree or in a pole barn.
 
Yeah, I know. Some folks do and some don't. Doing it yourself you would be less likely to cut it since you're not paying labor.

There are plenty of folks here who have changed their pumps, one of them should chime in pretty soon.
Most of them work, so the replies will start coming in later on.

I run Fords, so I haven't changed a Chevy in a long time. I could tell you how to change an older model, but an 04 might be different, so I won't risk confusing you.

Just keep checking back.
If the new pump has a round flange, odds are its got a lockring that screws down to hold it in.
Just use a small block of wood and a hammer to tap the lugs around.

But, like I say, wait for positive info.
 
Cornfield creations said:
A lot of times the lines going in are very rusty, and are brittle. The retaining ring usually isn't too bad. I would make sure the assembly would be available nearby if needed. They usually are.
It's an 04. Pretty sure we're lookin at it having a plastic tank and plastic lines. I know the sender assembly is plastic cause I already have it.

Someone here must've done one of these trucks...
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
 
You will need a set of fuel line disconnect tools to remove the fittings. most auto parts stores will rent or loan these out if you don't want to buy them. Other than that, it is simple once the bed is off.
 
I've have done a million of these you don't need a quick disconnect for the fuel lines on the pump they are just the squeeze type connectors. You can use a long flat blade screw driver to get the lock ring on and off. Then just lift the pump out of the tank. As far as the bed goes take all the bolts out of one side and then loosen the other side and put some blocks under the bed to hold it up while you replace the pump.
 
That cutting a hole in the bed sounds cheesy. I would be pissed if the dealer did that.


Realistically, its only a 30 - 40min job if you have the proper tools (lift). Or an hour if you go the bed route
 
I've done an 02 and a 03, both 2500hd with short beds. Like stated above, pull the bed, regular hand tools to remove the pump module, reinstall , and done. The second one I did, it took a total of 20 minutes start to finish, I did have 3 other people on hand to pull the bed, so that helped. Not a hard job and pulling the bed is way easier not to mention cleaner then dropping the tank.

Oh, compressed air or at least a shop vac to clean off the top of the tank before removing the module is a good idea.
 
The bed came off real easy, 8 bolts, 2 plugs, and 3 screws at the filler neck and the big yellow thing lifted it like it wasn't there. After that it was a standard fuel pump replacement, done before lunch.

DSCN0909.JPG

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