CK5
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1/2 to 3/4 master cylinder
- Thread starter mjnemmer
- Start date
wraenking
1/2 ton status
you easily could have damages your master cylander hile bleeding the brakes.
i run the stock master cylander, but i run a prop valve from www.inlinetube.com
call them, and they will tell you exactly which one to use.
i have no problems at all
i run the stock master cylander, but i run a prop valve from www.inlinetube.com
call them, and they will tell you exactly which one to use.
i have no problems at all
Don't see where a proportioning valve would let the pedal go to the floor. you either have alot of air in it still, and need to bleed more, or the rear brakes are way out of adjustment, or maybe even front calipers not sliding. put yourself a rubber hose on the bleed screw, with the other end down inside an old bottle with a little brake fluid in the bottom. open the bleeder and pump away. this will let out the air, without sucking any back in.
darkshadow
1 ton status
for about 20 bucks, you can make a power bleader that will flush your whole system in 30 seconds.
buy a power sprayer, the kind you pump up to spray weed killer or decks or what ever, ditch the sprayer and fit the hose to a barbed fitting, and tap that in to a plate large enuff to cover the front half of the MC.
clamp that on to the MC with a piece of rubber gaskit (plumbing suply cheap) with a little brake fluid in the sprayer, pump it up then crack you bleaders, it will flow continusly untill you close the bleaders., repeat for the back half.
NOTE: if you DID blead proberly and the pedel is way to soft, pull the MC with the lines atached to see if there is fluid comeing out the back of it this would indecate worn seals from excesive cylinder travel, need to replace the seals with a re build kit, or make it easy and buy a new cly
buy a power sprayer, the kind you pump up to spray weed killer or decks or what ever, ditch the sprayer and fit the hose to a barbed fitting, and tap that in to a plate large enuff to cover the front half of the MC.
clamp that on to the MC with a piece of rubber gaskit (plumbing suply cheap) with a little brake fluid in the sprayer, pump it up then crack you bleaders, it will flow continusly untill you close the bleaders., repeat for the back half.
NOTE: if you DID blead proberly and the pedel is way to soft, pull the MC with the lines atached to see if there is fluid comeing out the back of it this would indecate worn seals from excesive cylinder travel, need to replace the seals with a re build kit, or make it easy and buy a new cly
G
goldwing2000
Guest
Providing you're still running drum brakes on the rear, I vote for rear shoes not adjusted properly.
If you converted to rear disc... then your problems are just beginning.
If you converted to rear disc... then your problems are just beginning.
garlicbreath
1/2 ton status
I'm having the same problem after switching to one tons, but I put on a new one ton M/C and gravity bled a full large bottle of brake fluid through it.
It is still spongy and soft.
Could the prop valve be bad?
It has a button on the front that moves when I push the brakes.
It is still spongy and soft.
Could the prop valve be bad?
It has a button on the front that moves when I push the brakes.
Your title makes it sound like you have alread swapped out to the 3/4 ton master cylinder but your post didn't mention it....have you?
-Avery
-Avery
its an 87 carborated blazer with the factory master and iv blead two one liter bottles of fluid through it and im still going to the floor with the pedal. i adjusted the rear drums but that only helped it didnt fix it.
Leper
1/2 ton status
Do a search. There are several recent threads on this problem. An older thread I made has all the info you need.
