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1/2 to 3/4 ton.

stockk5

1/2 ton status
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Yes i have searched a ton, i want new gears for my truck but i guess it will cost the same for 3/4 ton axels rather than to get the gears for my 10bolt. What do i need for 3/4 ton axels. Do they have all the same bolt patterns ie shocks/springs and such as 1/2ton. What is invoved with the swap. thanks Mike
 
i was shocked at how much 3/4 ton axles started costing me. i got a pair out of a 78 3/4 ton and i put almost everything but new gears on them and i was in it well over a thousand. thats including rear disc swap. im throwing mine in this weekend, so ill let you know how mine goes
 
ya im wondering though if i took like the whole 3/4 ton axel, brakes and all what would i have to do to bolt them onto my truck.. make new brackets for the shocks and springs and replace the brakes?
 
anyone have input,, sry if this is such a retorical questions, i searched and searched but i didnt find any details about what is needed.
 
when I installed my 3/4 ton stuff it was a direct bolt in. I even got lucky and the rear drive shaft u joint was correct.:grin: your rear axle is a larger tube than the stock 10 bolt. new u bolts needed. but if i remember correctly (dont always do that0 I just turned the spring plate sideways and it fit that way.:confused:
 
What do you need? You'll need new spring plates and u-bolts for the rear (they might be included with the axle). I had a 4 inch lift block so I had to get new rear u-bolts. I needed a conversion u-joint (available at NAPA). I broke a brake line and needed to replace the brake line. The shock and spring mounts are the same (from 1/2 to 3/4 ton). I believe all 8-bolt pick-up truck wheels use the same bolt pattern. I used 16" wheels with a 4.25" or 4.5" offset. A 15" wheel will not clear the front brakes unless you grind the brake caliber. The front was a direct bolt in (steering arm, spring plates, u-joint, shock mounts, spring plates) except the larger brake issue.

I made the same decision. Rather than re-gear I switched to 3/4 tons with 4.10s. I added rear discs ($200), new bearings ($40), new u-joint ($15), new brake line ($??), and it was ready to roll. The new wheels and tires did break the bank, but I guess I could have avoided those.
 
get a 14BFF out of a 3/4 ton pickup from 1973-1987 and a front 10B 3/4 ton 8 lug version out of a 78-87 3/4 ton truck or burb. It will bolt in like it belonged there. The Front 3/4 10B is a COMPLETE unbolt/bolt back job. Nothing is different between the 1/2 and 3/4 version besides the gears inside the diff and the 8 lug hubs.

The rear 14BFF is almost as simple. You will need new ubolts, spring plates, and a ujoint(Neapco 2-1153). Thats it for parts. The 3/4 ton version 14BFF will have the same spring perch width and shock placement, will bolt right in. THe 1 ton version has different perch widths and the shocks are backwards, AVOID THE 1 TON VERSION! Your brake line fittings will bolt right up and the e-brake might too if the axle is nearly the same year as your K5. You will love the difference of braking performance the alrger 2.5" rear drums deliver.
 
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