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1/2 Ton K5 Frame Strengthening?

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RichGonn

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Hey guys,

Ive been searching for some info on how to strengthen a blazer frame, but havnt really found anything too specific. Im planning a mildly built 12v Cummins swap and am worried about the wear and tear that will be put on the frame from all that torque (around 700-1000ft/lbs) Ive seen a full frame boxing kit that is available and heard about bracing and what not. I am basicly just wondering what would be the best way to beef up a K5 frame? Pictures or links (maybe even drawings) are appreciated!


Rich
 
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Are 3/4, 1t frames better than the 1/2 tons??

Anywas i would bos the frame all the way if posible., there was a build in here about that, might want to search it up
 
dont really know what your doing with the truck but a full cage with bars out to the front frame and a bolt in over engine bar is about as strong as you can get, full boxing added would basically make it a tank
 
RichGonn said:
Hey guys,

Ive been searching for some info on how to strengthen a blazer frame, but havnt really found anything too specific. Im planning a mildly built 12v Cummins swap and am worried about the wear and tear that will be put on the frame from all that torque around (700-1000ft/lbs) Ive seen a full frame boxing kit that is availableand heard about bracing and what not. i am basicly just wondering what would be the best way to beef up a K5 frame? Pictures or links (maybe even drawings) are appreciated!


Rich
Click to expand...
I will tell you this:
I owned a K5 with a 5.8 turbo diesel (perkins not cummins) and wheeled it and daily drove it for 6 years.
It destroyed my frame in ways I have never seen before with any other engine.
Stress cracks all over the engine bay all the way to the tranny/ tcase cross member. I even dropped the cross member once on a trail, the vibration losened up the bolts and the whole tranny tcase dropped on the ground.
I ended up pulling the engine and scrapping the truck, now I am working on putting it in a 1 ton, the only frame I think can take the vibration and torque and I am going to stiffen it up as well.
I will try and draw it up so you can understand my concept but it's pretty much the concept of some power poles that stand really tall but are made from some channel and angle iron.
You have 2 channels and you need to connect them and triangulate them so they don't twist.
Pics would come later when I have time to make the drawings.
 
The truck is going to be basicly an all around vehicle. Its gonna be my daily driver, do some light wheeling, and probably some towing here and there. Definitely NOT going to be beat on, I just want to be safe.
 
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Box the frame and buy/make some good crossmembers. That's about all you can do, and I know several that have done this and it works fine.
 
The cage trumps all. Make sure it is welded directly to the frame. May sound obvious, but you might be surprised how many people are content with a cage that just bolts to the floor.
 
crashandburn said:
The cage trumps all. Make sure it is welded directly to the frame. May sound obvious, but you might be surprised how many people are content with a cage that just bolts to the floor.
Click to expand...

Everyone keeps talking about the cage, that's for safety and would stiffen the overall flexibility of the frame, but the frame thickness of the 1/2 ton blazer is not enough to withstand the vibration and torque of a cummins, even stock let alone a souped up cummins.
I am speaking from experience, and I strongly advise against it unless the frame is reinforced locally where the engine resides.
I had stress cracks forming all over the engine bay area and I had six cracks that went all the way on the section of the frame, from end to end.
It's no joke, those frames are not made to take this abuse.
This is my last comment so I won't bother anyone else.
:dunno:
 
Check out both of these guys on youtube:

http://www.youtube.com/user/PissOnJapScrap

http://www.youtube.com/user/tpull123

Wayne (PissOnJapScrap) has been planning his twin turbo cummins swap for well over a year and goes into pretty extensive detail on what he's doing to beef up the frame, cross member, etc. I can't recall whether or not he was using a 1/2 ton frame.

tpull123 just started his build not too long ago but he's going a little different route than Wayne on both the motor mounts and frame boxing.

They're both doing an awesome job, definitely worth the watch if you're considering the swap.
 
Iceman, those drawings would be great, thanks!

I am pretty much a newbie when it comes to frames, all I really can go off of is what little I've learned from some research... and basic physics. Could someone give me a quick rundown on the necesitites for a strong frame? Like how the torque "flows" and where and what needs to be braced or boxed? Would boxing the entire length of the frame rails be necesary? Would diagonal triangulated cross members be a good idea to resist torsion?

Rich
 
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RichGonn said:
Iceman, those drawings would be great, thanks!

I am pretty much a newbie when it comes to frames, all I really can go off of is what little I've learned from some research... and basic physics. Could someone give me a quick rundown on the necesitites for a strong frame? Like how the torque "flows" and where and what needs to be braced or boxed? Would boxing the entire length of the frame rails be necesary? Would diagonal triangulated cross members be a good idea to resist torsion?

Rich
Click to expand...

Seems like you know your physics so it won't be hard for you to understand sketches if I draw them up and scan them for you.
But the fact remains your frame is thin and could use some help, depending on where and how you make your motor mounts you need to reinforce/plate an area around it to spread the stress. then you need to triangulate your frame to resisit the twisting which is easy enough and many ways to do that.
Do you already know how you are mounting the engine?
 
That's the same cross member I used but I welded mine in. I also plan on beefing up the frame when I'm done with most of the custom fab stuff.
Click to expand...

That's what I was thinking, I want to bolt it in, then weld the seams and box around it. do you guys think that this would be enough or should I continue the boxing all the way down the frame?
 
Figured I'd bring this thread back to life, now that I've purchased my donor, a 1994 Cummins Ram with a 5 speed, now all I have to do is find a clean Blazer in the northest which meets my budget :doah:

Anyway, I'm still looking to box the frame and have come to the conclusion that it is all or nothing. But, my newest concern is moisture. Since this truck will be a daily driver, I'm a bit concerned about water sitting in the bottom of the frame since it will be enclosed. I plan on painting the inside of the frame with anti-rust paint. (after cleaning and stripping it down completely of course)

Any opinions on this water/moisture issue? Or am I just too paranoid? (better safe then sorry):thumb:



Rich
 
The paint will help, but a lot of it will burn off when you weld. Small drain holes in the bottom can stop water building up, and can actually strengthen the frame.

After all the welding is done, you can use the drain holes to spray some heavy grease like LPS Chain lube or LPS3.

They also make an anti-corrosion product called PROCYON.
http://www.lpslabs.com/product_pg/corrosion_pg/Procyon.html

Never used it myself, but it or any long term anti-corrosion product should work.
 
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