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1.6 rocker arms?

diesel4me said:
If I remember correctly, the 400 SB uses 1.6 ratio rockers factory..so if you bought stock replacement ones, they should bolt right on,and still be reliable..

I've seen aluminum roller rockers wear out on the street pretty quickly..I think they are meant more for drag racing engines that get rebuilt after one or two seasons,more than a daily driver sort of motor..:crazy:
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HUH!!!!!:confused:
 
Good alternative..

The roller tipped rockers seem to work well...never had any myself,but friends have built muscle car motors and used them with good results..

I know some will question my statement about roller rockers wearing out rapidly in street use,but I've seen many engines with them in the junkyards,and everyone I've talked with pretty much agrees they were meant for hi revving drag racing engines,more than a 100,000 mile daily driver type of engine..despite having needle bearings and hi-tech aluminum,many of the roller rockers I saw were sloppy, and some had actually worn pretty badly,a few even broke!..I think stamped rockers are good enough for "normal" use.."race" parts belong in race cars!...:crazy:
 
diesel4me said:
The roller tipped rockers seem to work well...never had any myself,but friends have built muscle car motors and used them with good results..

I know some will question my statement about roller rockers wearing out rapidly in street use,but I've seen many engines with them in the junkyards,and everyone I've talked with pretty much agrees they were meant for hi revving drag racing engines,more than a 100,000 mile daily driver type of engine..despite having needle bearings and hi-tech aluminum,many of the roller rockers I saw were sloppy, and some had actually worn pretty badly,a few even broke!..I think stamped rockers are good enough for "normal" use.."race" parts belong in race cars!...:crazy:
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It's the aluminum ones that don't seem to fare well in high mileage engines. The steel/stainless steel full roller rockers seem to be fine. Still, for the money you can't beat Comp Cams roller-tipped rockers for non-race motors.
 
Chevy305 said:
I think I'll buy some over xmas break. If I break something, it will be over the break and I will have time to fix it. Also it'll be a perfect excuse to get a valve job ;)
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let the valves kiss a piston, you'll be in for a whole lot more than a valve job. :deal:

honestly, you have a 305, right? accept the fact that you have a slug and move on. the 3.75" bore is too small to make any kind of real performance numbers, and there's only one way to fix it. pull the boat anchor out, and put something good in it.
 
diesel4me said:
If I remember correctly, the 400 SB uses 1.6 ratio rockers factory..so if you bought stock replacement ones, they should bolt right on,and still be reliable..
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you're not remembering correctly... 1.5... :rolleyes:
 
We're BOTH wrong!..

I looked in my Clymer manual,and they say a stock 400 SB has 1.7 to 1 rocker arm ratio!...:eek1: --all other small blocks are 1.5 ratio according to them!..

:crazy:
 
Could be...

Books have been wrong before!--especially if they say "Chilton's" on the cover...:rolleyes: --but this one is a Clymer,they are usually correct..

I'll see if I can find any specs in other books I have,(like a genuine GM service giude) for the heck of it later today..got me curious now..:thinking:
 
beater_k20 said:
let the valves kiss a piston, you'll be in for a whole lot more than a valve job. :deal:

honestly, you have a 305, right? accept the fact that you have a slug and move on. the 3.75" bore is too small to make any kind of real performance numbers, and there's only one way to fix it. pull the boat anchor out, and put something good in it.
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Ya I think 1.6 rockers are a little less expensive than an entire engine...
:deal:
 
diesel4me said:
I looked in my Clymer manual,and they say a stock 400 SB has 1.7 to 1 rocker arm ratio!...:eek1: --all other small blocks are 1.5 ratio according to them!..

:crazy:
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The 400 BB (402ci) did have 1.72 ratio, but all smallblocks came with 1.5.
The roller tip rockers made by Crane or Comp Cams would be a good choice for this application. The aluminum, I agree, will wear on this street type motor, they are made for high rpm, and lightweight, not longevity. The Pro Magnum would be great also, but a quite a bit more money.

http://www.compperformancegroupstores.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=CC&Product_Code=1302-16&Category_Code=pmRCKR

http://www.compperformancegroupstores.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=CC&Product_Code=1418-16&Category_Code=mgRCKR
 
garlicbreath said:
for 150.00 he could put a 350 in it.
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Sorry but I'm not putting a $150 engine into my truck. If I am going to put a new engine into my truck then I will spend at least $1500 on a rebuilt one and one with over 300hp.


So, school me on what is the best ones I should put in. :1zhelp:
 
one with a 4" bore is good.

honestly, the $150 engine will probably do you just fine, just make sure you buy a good one. 300hp should be extremely easy out of a carbed 350.
 
The only real upside to doing the rockers on a 305 is they would transfer to a 350.
But don't just get longer ones, at least get roller tipped.

As for aluminum ones wearing out on the street, I have run them in the last 3 motors I built.

Granted I never expect to get 100,000 out of my motors, I beat on them too hard, but I have never had an aluminum arm fail, and the roller trunion is worth more HP than the roller tip.

I am all for bolt ons that you can transfer to another motor, but spending money on a 305 is like trying to save a model 20 or throwing 1000.00 into a ten bolt.
 
Chevy305 said:
Sorry but I'm not putting a $150 engine into my truck. If I am going to put a new engine into my truck then I will spend at least $1500 on a rebuilt one and one with over 300hp.


So, school me on what is the best ones I should put in. :1zhelp:
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go with a newer one with center bolt valve covers and a one peice rear main seal. they have bigger valves.
 
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