Wow, that came together quickly! Nice!
CK5
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1 month to 8.1 swap, then another month to Nv4500 swap
- Thread starter #Burbslut
- Start date
87 V20 Burb- 6.2 Diesel to 8.1-Th400 to Nv4500
I got around a month to complete, then a 800 mile drive. and then a 2300 mile roundtrip
The family had to get out, so we took a short shakedown run to the lower lake area of Ca. Private property off the grid. The 8.1 did great. The Dam exhaust collector bolts backed off again and lost the bolts. I took a few transfer case nut and bolts out and used the jam nuts on the collector bolts.
The 8.1 runs great. Tons of torque. The temps climbed a bit to 220 while in the mountains on the way from Willows to lower lake. The 3.73 gears and the 33”s tires had me spinning 2600rpm at 65. It will be nice to have the gear selection with the nv4500.
speaking of 4500, look what showed up today! I wasn’t expecting the guy to completely disassemble the pedal assembly. There are a few tension springs that need to be put into a certain way. Does anyone have experience, a diagram, or picture of it assembled ?
Does anyone know where to get these bushings?
The 8.1 runs great. Tons of torque. The temps climbed a bit to 220 while in the mountains on the way from Willows to lower lake. The 3.73 gears and the 33”s tires had me spinning 2600rpm at 65. It will be nice to have the gear selection with the nv4500.
speaking of 4500, look what showed up today! I wasn’t expecting the guy to completely disassemble the pedal assembly. There are a few tension springs that need to be put into a certain way. Does anyone have experience, a diagram, or picture of it assembled ?
Does anyone know where to get these bushings?
Did you use the diesel/big-block radiator....?
Diesel- The BBC radiator is different.
Stupid collector bolts. Jam nuts are on order.
I got the pedal assembly back together.
I cleaned up the rusty pass through holes with a ball hone, some emery cloth on the pivot shafts and put new bushings in. I got a new clutch start switch and the brake switch will be in tomorrow.
The one thing that I am missing is the sheet metal bracket that holds the rod in place and has the spot for this random spring. I assume that it will be difficult to find.
I cleaned up the rusty pass through holes with a ball hone, some emery cloth on the pivot shafts and put new bushings in. I got a new clutch start switch and the brake switch will be in tomorrow.
The one thing that I am missing is the sheet metal bracket that holds the rod in place and has the spot for this random spring. I assume that it will be difficult to find.
Love the progress on this thing Jordan! On the exhaust leak, I literally have the exact same thing on mine. I've boiled it down to the fact I have cheaper headers on there. I did everything I could to seal them up and still have a little bit of a tick. I've just dealt with it. Later on down the road I'm going to purchase a real nice set of headers and then redo the whole exhaust. Oh, and I've had my bolts on the collectors back off a couple times too, haha. Again, I attribute it all to cheaper headers. It's what I could afford at the time and I've just dealt with it for a while, and like I said, I'll redo the whole exhaust later down the road.
Love that this is getting a NV4500 too!
Love that this is getting a NV4500 too!
Just my opinion, but I have always used lock washers but no flat washers on the collector bolts. So crimp lock nuts could possibly do it.
But you may have to add some kind of flex pipe into the system. I had to under my '90 Jimmy. Long tube 4 into 1 headers apparently flex more and have fewer problems, in my experience.
But you may have to add some kind of flex pipe into the system. I had to under my '90 Jimmy. Long tube 4 into 1 headers apparently flex more and have fewer problems, in my experience.
I have lock washers on it originally, they backed off long ago.
Luckily these aren't long tubes-I didn't want them to hang below the frame.
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Try Stage 8, they make a " Header Collector kit "
Well I tried to help.. Lol!
And I believe that you meant to say that you DON'T have long tube headers. Since what I see is that they are not hanging down low. I am wondering if they are getting more torque applied than is obvious. My shortie headers wouldn't hold a seal because I didn't have a flex point like a factory manifold collector. If you do get the nuts to stay tight, could there be future problems at the exhaust ports of the head?
Just pondering..
Glad to find your build on here! When the time comes, I told myself I'd do a 6.0 or 8.1 depending on what deal I find at the time. I kinda want the 8.1 though...it'll be nice to have twice the power and the same fuel economy.
All the torque in the world and the motor isn't constantly looking for the power range.
My 2 favorite stats:
~355 lb-ft at idle
span of 2,600 RPM of usable torque greater than 400 lb-ft
Those are some damn fine reasons to go 8.1.
Like a diesel with spark plugs !
Is there a way to post a video here without a YouTube account? I have this rattle coming from the engine when it’s cold. I pulled the valve covers off and nothing seems out of the norm. I disconnected the torque converter and the sound is still there.
I’m running 10-40 oil, 70ish psi when cold. 30-40 when at temp.
I’m running 10-40 oil, 70ish psi when cold. 30-40 when at temp.
Alternator bearings started to make some noise today. I couldn’t put a stock unit in so I got this 200amp unit for the Burb. The batteries and winch should like it. I don’t have a stereo in the Burb so I don’t need the extra amperage for that.
