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1 month to 8.1 swap, then another month to Nv4500 swap

87 V20 Burb- 6.2 Diesel to 8.1-Th400 to Nv4500 I got around a month to complete, then a 800 mile drive. and then a 2300 mile roundtrip
Alright. Back to the Micro Minnie.

We bought the Mallard 19N about 3 yrs ago and we loved it, everything worked but the rotted roof was more than I wanted to deal with. We started looking about a year and a half ago. I had a few requirements. Bunkhouse floor plan, Dual axles, under 20’(parking space), and no slide out. The 1800Bh is perfect.

After missing out on several 1-2 yr old models for sale, we realized the market sucked for buyers. The used ones rarely come up for long before they sell. We bit the bullet and started looking for a new one. It took a few months but we found one 6 hrs away in Reno. We put down a deposit, sight unseen.

The next weekend, we went and picked it up. I had my reserves about the lifted trailer and how it would tow. When we showed up, I saw the tires and then had more doubts. It all went away quickly, and after making it home. I was extremely happy how it towed. It tracked great and the wind in the bay didn’t even phase it.

I averaged 8.5mpg on the trip home from Reno to Santa Cruz, I was extremely happy. It was empty and I had no extra stuff in the Burb. I definitely tested the speed rating on the tires. Our old 19n was 10” wider, but shorter than the Minnie.

So we got home Saturday night, packed it on Sunday and left Tuesday around 1pm. We had a 1200 mile one way drive from home to the destination north of Bonners Ferry. The Burb and the Trailer were packed pretty heavily. I did stop at a scale to check my weight on the way up and on our return trip. At my heaviest…….
Wait for it


The Burb rolled across at
8850!
The Trailer…….
5480!

I was not prepared to see those numbers!

Ready for the
Mpg average?

Over 2400 miles traveled.
300+ gallons consumed
Around $2000 in gas


7.6 mpg!!!!! I am actually pretty happy with that.


Even at its heaviest, the 8.1 never missed a beat. I’m still pretty happy with it. It could benefit from another 75+ ft lbs and maybe a few more ponies. I’m thinking of a 3.73 to 4.10 gear swap for sure. I don’t think I can’t dedicate to 4.56.

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A couple shots from Mountain Havoc and the trip home.

On the way up I was so amped to get there that I drove for 16 hours and put down 1000 miles before stopping for a quick 2 hr nap.

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Took the old trailer a few times to Hollister Hills for a few get togethers. I no longer bring the 34/9.5-16 narrow tsl’s. I hate swapping tires and they are load range c, so I don’t use them on the street either. I’ll probably end up selling them.

The 8.1 with the super low granny gear nv4500, it claws it’s way around. I’ll pretty much get the old Burb around most of the park. I always like to get the group of guys that are nervous with truck hill and show them a rig with street tires can make it up. Reverse too! Not bad for never airing down. This did end up making me self recover after the tire smoke show on the stair steps. The 65 psi didn’t help there.

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I'm not surprised by those mileage numbers at all. The 8.1 equipped Workhorse W-22 Class A motorhomes routinely got 7-8 mpg with the RV tipping the scales right at the 22,000 pound GVW or more. For what they can do, it's amazing they get the mileage they do.

My lowest on the Desert trip was 8.76 mpg last week. The highest was 17.18 mpg and it came during our crossing of the Rockies from Pueblo to Gunnison. I was dumbstruck by it. But we couldn't go any faster than 65mph on that stretch and I didn't go full hammer down on Monarch Pass either. That's on a truck that has all the aerodynamics of a barn and is every bit of 7,500 pounds heavy loaded for a week-long trip. My previous best was 16 mpg going to Moab for Blazer Bash last year and that surprised me then too.

I'm running 4.10's with 315/75r16 tires which come in just a bit under 35" for diameter. The cruise RPM is right in the meat of the torque curve at 60-65mph. I can tell on climbs if I let the rev's drop below 1,800 rpm I needed to downshift. Compared to Larry with 4.56 gears he was able not loose as much momentum on the passes. But I'm not sure I'm ready to take the mileage hit for a little less power on the hills. I think 4.10's are the sweet spot for sure.
 
On today’s version of wtf.

The nuts apparently backed off the collector so I had a couple spare arp 12 point nuts so I replaced 2 that were missing. After a day of driving I went to check the torque on them and found another missing one and one that was still there, but the nut split.

These were installed with a 1/4” drive hand ratchet. I got something going on. These nut/bolt setups are rated at 180,000 psi.

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I started making phone calls to have a custom exhaust system made. What a lost art. After calling 6 different “exhaust” shops. I feel lost. None of them sounded confident enough to trust.

I guess I’ll start looking into the headers I want and mufflers/sizes. I’m thinking Hooker Super Comps and S.S. 3” 2 chamber Magnaflow.

This poor motor has been breathing through the factory 6.2 dual exhaust with just Magnaflow muffs.
 
Tire problems lately…..
2 yr old Dick Cepeks started cracking so I swapped out a set of Bfg Km2 that I bought for cash/no tax from a shop about a yr and a half ago.

4 hrs of driving later…. Rear tire comes apart(brand new tire). The tread completely peels off the carcass. I swap the spare on and carry on. Call the tire shop. New owners… long story short. They won’t honor it. Call BFG. They have me look at the date code. 2015!!!!! Two of the tires are from 2015 and the other two are new. Wtf…..

Moving on.

Put cracking 2 yr old Dick Cepeks back on. 2 weeks later. Steel bar ruins the best of the 4.

Put spare back on. Two days later. Blow out(super old and bald).

So. At the moment. I’m running mismatched brand tires‍♂️

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Holy smokes Batman!!!
16x8 DOT bead locks!


I have been looking for a set for dam near two decades. Of course they had to be the right set at the right price. These came up locally and I scooped them up. These will get torn down, cleaned up and re-assembled.

Does anyone have any info on them?

I now need to decide what rubber will go on them. Nothing big. Probably a 285/75/16 Cooper SST pro. Not entirely sure, but just getting these rims is a huge bucket list part off the list.

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Those things are a pita to split apart. My cherry picker is being loaned out so I needed to do it the old fashion way. Good old tire spoons to the rescue. It took way longer than I was expecting. The inserts are surprisingly flexible. I was able to pull them out by hand.

I really want to somehow get the chipped up powder coat off and redone. I really like the color of them, but I’m not married to the color. I’m going to try and find o rings and tire valves for spares. They were holding air(35psi) when I got them. I’m going to assume they didn’t leak because they were stacked up in the back of a shed behind a bunch of stuff.

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fuel system and supply stuff.

I had a 91r2500 Burb that was cut up for parts and I had some idea at the time of a potential swap in the future so I kept the tank and lines. A few yrs later, here I am digging them up.

stock 40 gallon tbi tank, lines and sender.
I work at a parts store so I get a amazing deal on parts. It’s kinda a blessing and a curse. I ended up buying a stock replacement sender, new vortec fuel pump, strainer, and a few adapter fittings. I’m thinking of adapting the short section just to the rail. I’ll use some braided line with an connections.


Question. What does everyone do with the third(tank vent to canister?) line? I don’t have a canister since it was a diesel.
Ideas?

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Larry will tell you to put the canister on , he said he got alot of gas fumes in the cabs of both his trucks i think he said.
 
Larry will tell you to put the canister on , he said he got alot of gas fumes in the cabs of both his trucks i think he said.
I’ve never had a problem. I guess I’m lucky. I remember reading about it and I was preparing to do something, but it never was a problem.
 
Of course. The day the tires come in, the header starts cracking again.

I probably should have prioritized the headers.
Dang it.

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After the long realization of the work entailed to strip and re-powdercoat…. I gave up. Maybe I’ll find time down the road. It’s just not in the cards.

I picked up the tires and figured I’d throw one together and check the “look”. Faw*…. I wanted to see it white letter out. Oh well.

The assembly is straight forward. I completely forgot to clock the insert and had to pry it back apart to rotate it. The insert has a groove in the side of it to allow air in. It has to be lined up with the valve stem. The insert itself is flexible enough to get in by hand/foot. I just had to wedge the tire apart a little to get it in. I cleaned the mating surface and put some silicone grease on the o ring. I’m sure it will leak.

I’m thinking I’ll assemble a white letter out combo and make the ultimate decision.

Meanwhile. A quick comparison of a
285/75/16 Cooper Discoverer SST pro
Vs
255/85/16 BFG Km3
Both are e range and brand new.
The Cooper is on a 8” w rim and the BFG is on a stock 6.75”?

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How will you balance these? I'm curious to know how they go down the road.
 
How will you balance these? I'm curious to know how they go down the road.
I’m also curious. Lol. I’m glad you brought it up. I kinda forgot that important step. The rubber insert is relatively soft compared to others and I had concerns about putting beads in with the factory hole for the ctis and the groove for the air passage. I was thinking they would all collect at the rim center.

My H1 beadlocks use a stiff pvc insert and I have balance beads in those. Definitely not putting another rim together until I figure that out. Thanks!
 

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