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1 month to 8.1 swap, then another month to Nv4500 swap

87 V20 Burb- 6.2 Diesel to 8.1-Th400 to Nv4500 I got around a month to complete, then a 800 mile drive. and then a 2300 mile roundtrip
I’m also curious. Lol. I’m glad you brought it up. I kinda forgot that important step. The rubber insert is relatively soft compared to others and I had concerns about putting beads in with the factory hole for the ctis and the groove for the air passage. I was thinking they would all collect at the rim center.

My H1 beadlocks use a stiff pvc insert and I have balance beads in those. Definitely not putting another rim together until I figure that out. Thanks!
The beads I got are 1/8"
I don't think they can get stuck in the air system
 
The beads I got are 1/8"
I don't think they can get stuck in the air system
My concern was them falling into the 7/8” size hole and getting trapped in the are between the rim center and the insert, but the more I think about it, the less I think it’s going to be a problem.

Splitting that rim apart is going to be the biggest pita. Lol.
 
Had to pull the trigger today on headers and mufflers. I’m trying to have everything lined up for when I can get the burb into a exhaust shop.

I have ended up just going with what I know. Hooker Super Competition series. Part #7521hkr. 1 7/8” primary’s, 3” collector. Std stuff. I’ve had them before on another burb I swapped a bbc into. The mufflers are Magnaflow XL 3 chamber. 3” in/out. Hooker had another set listed for a bbc 4x4 squarebody(#7520hkr), but there was a added note about clearance issues with a th400 crossmember and it would have to be moved back.

I just need to decide on exhaust tips and find a shop!

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I couldn’t put off the squealing/pulling/fading brakes anymore. When I swapped in this axle I believe I may have done the bare minimum to get it in. I believe all I did was repack the bearings, turn the rotors and slap some pads on.

Countless miles but maybe 3 yrs of service later, it’s time to replace a few things. I think since then I’ve pad slapped it twice and slapped shoes in once. The rotors are now beyond minimum spec and the drums have a substantial lip on them. I’m hoping the drums can be turned. They are expensive. It also looks like I have a leaky rear axle seal. It never drips, but there’s definitely something happening in there.

After a inspection of most everything reveals a few things needed. Pads, rotors, shoes, possible drums, a front driver inner/outer bearing/race set, front seals, rear seals and a driver brake hose.

I think the only things I don’t have are drums, front seals and the brake hose. I try to have parts ready or prepared to order them.

Off to the machine shop in the am to have the drums checked and get parts on order.

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Parts stores aren’t the same.

After striking out on drum’s within a few days at a reasonable price, I moved on to getting bearings and seals. I give them the part numbers(I know them off the top of my head) Set 38 & Set76, x2 of 415960 seals, and x2 2081 seals. They then ask for a application.

I tell them that I swapped a Dana 60 from a 87 V30 front axle into my 87 v20 Burb with a 8.1 from a 01 C3500hd, the manual transmission is from a 92k3500, the rear axle is a 14bff from a 78 k20 Burb, but uses the factory 87 v20 suburban backing plates, cables, and wheel cylinders.
Fuel pump is from a 96 Yukon, fuel tank and sender from a 91r2500 suburban. Front bilstien shocks fit a 01 F550.

“You are better off just getting the part numbers I’m asking for, it’s on me if they are wrong.

Longer story at other stores.

I don’t miss being in the industry. I found what I needed online, while waiting in line at AutoZone. I walked outta line and went home and ordered online.
Stupid.
 
Online order and pick it up in the store. Or I print off the page from the website with the part number on it and hand that to them.
 
Online order and pick it up in the store. Or I print off the page from the website with the part number on it and hand that to them.
I’ve tried it. Mis-pulls, wrong boxed up parts and confusion. I think I’m more mad because I worked parts for 12 yrs. It’s not hard to confirm what’s ordered. I walk into a parts store usually with part numbers and pictures.

I still try, but about 50% of the time. There was a problem.
 
Gotta find that one parts store that still cares to do good customer service. I'm sure it's harder in the city. We have a few around here in the country that are the good old school parts stores that want to help and get you the right part and the best one also.
 
Gotta find that one parts store that still cares to do good customer service. I'm sure it's harder in the city. We have a few around here in the country that are the good old school parts stores that want to help and get you the right part and the best one also.
I totally agree with you. I worked at a mom and pop auto parts store that has been in business since 69’. We specialized in customer service and hard to find parts. We also had a full machine shop in the back. I got out when things were changing for the worse. I still have old customers that contact me for good leads on parts.

It’s a lost/dying art, if that makes sense.
 
I’m glad I rushed home during my work brake. I was expecting lots of parts coming in today. It dumped rain on/off for a hr or two. When I got home all the packages were on my steps soaking. Two feet to the left is a covered stairwell. I was able to get everything out of the soaked boxes before they started rusting.

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****… these things are huge. Not sure how I’m going to get them in. The tubes aren’t as close together and tight to the block as much.

The mid length Sanderson are a snap to get in on the drivers side. The passenger side not so much. I have to remove the off road design motor mount(which is a huge pita), and then lift the motor. I must take care not to smash the crank sensor, it’s in a bad spot. I need to test fit them for clearance checks and o2 sensor placement.

I guess I didn’t look at the flange details. They are 5/16” thick. I could have sworn my last set of Super Comps were 3/8” flange.

Has anyone had good luck cutting off the 3 bolt collector and swapping to a v band setup? I’m kinda considering it. It seems simpler and easy to deal with.

What’s everyone else running in their 8.1 swapped square body?

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I'm running stock squarebody big block manifolds on mine with 2.5" duals running through an x-pipe. Though I've had some issues with chewing up exhaust manifold donuts on the driver side that might be due to the lack of flexibility in my system.
 
I'm running stock squarebody big block manifolds on mine with 2.5" duals running through an x-pipe. Though I've had some issues with chewing up exhaust manifold donuts on the driver side that might be due to the lack of flexibility in my system.
When I did the swap I had a set of van 8.1 manifolds, they fit great, but I was worried about a replacement down the road. I sold them, got a set of Silverado/Avalanche/Suburban ones and they wouldn’t work. I didn’t have any manifolds for a square body big block so rather than buying manifolds, I went with Sanderson. The rest is sh*tty history.

I might get weird and try for a full 3” system. Or at least 3” to the mufflers and 2.5 all the way out.
 
All those years I’ve been buying the individual bearing and race for the inner on the front 60 and the 14bff. How did I not know about the matched set76? Anyway. I thought it was cool.

Also received some more 205 parts for rebuilding. I think I have 7 205’s waiting for a rebuild.

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When I did the swap I had a set of van 8.1 manifolds, they fit great, but I was worried about a replacement down the road. I sold them, got a set of Silverado/Avalanche/Suburban ones and they wouldn’t work. I didn’t have any manifolds for a square body big block so rather than buying manifolds, I went with Sanderson. The rest is sh*tty history.

I might get weird and try for a full 3” system. Or at least 3” to the mufflers and 2.5 all the way out.

Yeah gmt800 manifolds kick out too wide to fit the frame of a square. Workhorse manifolds were cast stainless which is great but are even worse than the 800 trucks.

Larry has the Sanderson shorties on his burb and not had an issue with them. But his k10 uses the squarebody manifolds.

Good to know on the van manifolds though. Replacement squarebody manifolds are available but they have the ports for the air injection that look fugly with pipe plugs in the holes.
 
A friend of mine dropped these emblems off for me today. Not sure if & where I’ll use them. I kinda like it low key.

Also the last shipment from Off Road Design came in. I got a few 205’s to do now.

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