1 ton axles

[ChevBlazin]

This is the first time I have tried this program, so bear with me if it doesn't work right. I should start by telliing you my situation. I have a 86 K5 with the stock 10 bolt axles. I have 35x12.5x15 tires and 15x10 rims. I want to upgrade to 4.10 gears. after recently breaking the rear 10 bolt (spider gears in the diff) I want to upgrade to something beefier. can I get a 15"wheel to fit on a 14 bolt rear and on a dana 60 front??? I am asking this because I don't want to get new tires in the 16 or 16.5 size (for reasons of price) I do realize I would need new rims. Do they even make 15"rims with an 8 lug pattern?? any help will be appreciated. The truck spends the majority of it's time on pavement. Am I better off just getting a 12 bolt and dana 44? thanks

 

[Rebel88]

you can put a 15" wheel on 1 ton stuff but it requires mucho grindo...you have to grind down your backing plate on the front among other stuff to get them to fit...

Later

Just tap it in...tappity tap tap...

 

[thatK30guy]

Just upgrade to a 12 bolt or even a 14 bolt semi-floater rear, like under the newer trucks with 6 lugs. This way you can keep your 6 lug wheels and tires.
No sense in spending money on 3/4 or 1 ton axles if you are mainly a street driver.
Nothing wrong with the 10 bolt front axle either. Leave it there and don't worry about the D44. If you got a D44, that's just more wasted money. There is no major difference between the two.
Just concentrate on finding a 12 bolt rear and have it built right. It will last you just fine.

<font color=red>Only real men drive K30's!!!</font color=red>

<a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/thatK30guy>The K30 Collection</a>

 

[dysphemism]

Hey I have done both things you mentioned. I started with the 14 bolt SF in order to keep my wheels. However next my front 10 bolt gave up the ghost. Since a dana 60 with 6 lugs is around 5K, I decided to get the 14 FF and D60 front both 8 lug. My wheels are the US Wheel tracker 15x10 8 lugs. They are steel. You will need steel wheels because of the clearance. Also, no aluminum wheels are available in 15" 8 lug. Your backspacing should be in the 4" area. As for grinding, there is a lot involved, but don't be afraid. The rears will bolt right on, and the front can be made to fit. In my opinion biting the bullet and getting both 1 tons at the same time instead of upgrading only the rear would have been a much better idea. I tried to upgrade just the rear, but overlooked the front. So good luck with that!

1986 GMC Jimmy 6" springs 3" body, 38/15.5/15 Swampers, 14-bolt FF rear, Dana 60 front, 1991 front-end.

 

[thatK30guy]

While 1 ton axles may be right for some people, it can also be wrong for others.
Such as the case here. ChevBlazin says his rig sees the majority of driving on the STREET.
1 ton axles are a waste of time and money if the truck is a street truck.
That's why I say to build or modify the 12 bolt rear, like with the Warn full floater conversion kit.

<font color=red>Only real men drive K30's!!!</font color=red>

<a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/thatK30guy>The K30 Collection</a>

 

[jekbrown]

the warn ff kit is great....but it also, by itself, costs more than a nice ff14b would cost ya. Hell, you could prolly get a ff14b with new gears and a detroit for the cost of a warn ff kit, and that doesnt even include installation!! I have put a lot of $$$ into my 1/2 ton axels, and believe me, I wish I had gone to 1-ton stuff from the get go. By the time you get nice new u-joints, chrome-moly axels, nice hubs, ff kits etc etc etc, you could have just got a 1-ton front/rear.

of course if street driving is the end-goal, just keep the 10-bolts.

BTW, anyone looking for some trick 10-bolts?

J


See the on-going build up of my '85 Jimmy! <a target="_blank" href=http://community.webshots.com/user/jekbrown>http://community.webshots.com/user/jekbrown</a>

 

[BadDog]

Yep, K30guys got it. I ran 35s on D44/C12 (C10 front is no better or worse than a D44) for quite a while on a BBC 75 Blazer that saw some pretty good off-road action without problems. You don't need 1 ton stuff. 3/4 ton at most if you want more piece of mind with a bullet proof full float rear and MUCH better brakes. But, 1/2 ton stuff will handle 35s just fine as long as you don't go nuts with the throttle off-road (especially with the wheels turned sharp).

Russ

85 K30 CUCV, 350 TBI, TH400, 205, D60/C14, 4.56 Locked, 4" lift, 42" tires
Some day: massive cutting, shorter wb and rear overhang.

 

[jekbrown]

yeah, but the 1-ton f/r makes peeps at your local 4x4 club get-together go "ooooo, ahhhhhh!!" =p

in all seriousness, the main reason i want 1-ton axels is so that when I decide to get new tires (whatever size they may be) I dont need to beef the hell out of everything...just throw on the new meats and GO. when i do the 1-ton conversion, I'll have freedom to move from 35s...to 38s...to 39.5s...or whatever. Whats more, if i wanna give it a lil gas to get over an obstacle, I can do that without worrying about a 10-bolt going "boom!!!". I have little doubt that the beefed 10 bolts will serv me well while I have 35s...but when I upgrade to bigger stuff, I need bigger axels.

J


See the on-going build up of my '85 Jimmy! <a target="_blank" href=http://community.webshots.com/user/jekbrown>http://community.webshots.com/user/jekbrown</a>

 

[zakk]

SF 14b rear if you are a street truck.

1-ton if you will be getting it awn and don't like fixing broken axles (if you drive like i do

)

You can get a set of used 16.5's (rims+tires) for around 400-500 clams. I paid a total of 486 for my 5 tires and rims dlievered to my house...used of course but it was a stop gap meassure that was economically viable at the time and allowed me to drive the truck

Depends on your plans and priorities...JMHO

-zakk

'77 1-Ton K5
World's Ugliest Lawn Ornament

CK5's Moab 2002 or Bust!!