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1 ton booster + m/c on a 1/2 ton gear?

argonaut

argonaut

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I'm looking to replace the original 1/2 ton disk/drum booster + master cylinder + prop valve on my 72 blazer and I'm looking for some input. I'm planning on sticking with the original 1/2 ton running gear for the foreseeable future, just a 4" lift and 33" tires.

I was thinking that while I'm at it I might as well put a 1 ton booster and master cylinder on. Is there any benefit for doing this when I'm planning on sticking with 1/2 ton axles, etc?

I'm also looking at an adjustable prop valve from CPP so I can dial in the pressure to the rear. Can anyone make any other recommendations?
 
That's a great writeup! I'm gonna add more to it soon. I'm taking out the Inlinetube prop valve and putting in an SSBC / Summit adjustable one to dial in the brakes.
 
So you guys don't think that a 1-ton booster+m/c setup is overkill for 1/2 ton calipers and rotors?
 
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AJs72K5 said:
That's a great writeup! I'm gonna add more to it soon. I'm taking out the Inlinetube prop valve and putting in an SSBC / Summit adjustable one to dial in the brakes.
Click to expand...

Make sure to post up what you use. I'm considerig the same thing. I think my inlinetube version is reducing the rear pressure too much.
 
I'm doing this swap also. I have a used 3/4 ton booster and will buy new master cylinder.

I used to roadrace motorcycles and we often put in a bigger bore mastercylinder with stock rotors and calipers. This would greatly improve the response and sensitivity of the brakes. This in turn allowed better modulation of the brakes (being able to percisely control braking close to lockup), and require less driver pressure. I would assume the trucks are the same.

My Question is if there is a reason to get a new booster? Is there a way to tell if the old one is good? The rubber boot for the input shaft is ripped but it's a bummer to replace a $120 booster for a $2 boot (although I can't find a boot to buy).
 
bp71k5 said:
Make sure to post up what you use. I'm considerig the same thing. I think my inlinetube version is reducing the rear pressure too much.
Click to expand...

Mine's doing just the opposite. The rear is locking up too early making me fishtail.

Just shows an adjustable one makes sense. When you start doing mods like the booster upgrade and 14ff disc conversion, there is no one-size-fits-all prop valve.
 
summit

Summit adjustable porportioning valve, 1 ton ala AJ and 4 wheel disk = stop on the spot.

I was gonna do a write up of my brake system and never did. Damn the work! I oughtta though it does extremely well even with the big wide boggers.
 
I've heard that the bolt pattern on the back of the booster is wider on the 3/4 and 1 ton boosters than the 1/2 ton. Meaning that my stock 1/2 ton firewall-to-booster bracket isn't going to be quite right.
Thoughts or comments on this?
 
argonaut said:
I've heard that the bolt pattern on the back of the booster is wider on the 3/4 and 1 ton boosters than the 1/2 ton. Meaning that my stock 1/2 ton firewall-to-booster bracket isn't going to be quite right.
Thoughts or comments on this?
Click to expand...

I don't think that's correct. There are two sets of firewall to booster brackets that I'm aware of. However, as shown in the writeup I did, the only difference is length.
 
argonaut said:
I've heard that the bolt pattern on the back of the booster is wider on the 3/4 and 1 ton boosters than the 1/2 ton. Meaning that my stock 1/2 ton firewall-to-booster bracket isn't going to be quite right.
Click to expand...


Same/same as far as I know.

I've swapped over several and have never ran into any issue with the bolt patterns.
 
Is there any difference between the Delco and Bendix boosters?
 
AJs72K5 said:
I don't think that's correct. There are two sets of firewall to booster brackets that I'm aware of. However, as shown in the writeup I did, the only difference is length.
Click to expand...

I found the bolt patterns to be the same length they come out from the firewall was the difference. I had to switch to make mine work.
 
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