1 ton master cilander (pushrod)

[wraenking]

since i failed inspection for the rear brakes not appkying enough (rear disc conversion) i installed a 1 ton master cilander to see if that would help. the rear discs are getting warm now, but im not sure if they are working enough.

do i need to lengthen the push rod at all?

thanks

 

[dremu]

since i failed inspection for the rear brakes not appkying enough (rear disc conversion) i installed a 1 ton master cilander to see if that would help. the rear discs are getting warm now, but im not sure if they are working enough.

do i need to lengthen the push rod at all?

thanks

If you mean the pushroom from the booster to the master, NO. Don't go fiddling with it or you WILL pop your master cylinder.

Ask me how I know.

If the rear isn't applying ENOUGH, you should be thinking about bleeding the brakes... rears usually apply too MUCH, thus the proportioning valve thing.

Or reset your stock combo valve -- but you do that as part of the bleeding process, right?

-- A

 

[tRustyK5]

If it's a pick-up it may be the load sensing prop valve is mis-adjusted...

If it doesn't have the load sensing prop valve I'd be looking at the standard prop/combo valve on the front crossmember. Usually if they're not 'centered' the brake light will be on though...but it could just be limiting flow to the rears.

I run rear discs and can lock all 4 tires (39.5's) on dry pavement. Hydro boost, '83 C30 master, stock prop/combo valve, and D44 calipers in the rear.

Rene

 

[YZEATER]

put the rear up on jack stands and test your brakes, and the holding power by putting it in drive and see if the wheels stop. also try in 4 low( with hubs unlocked of course.

 

[wraenking]

put the rear up on jack stands and test your brakes, and the holding power by putting it in drive and see if the wheels stop. also try in 4 low( with hubs unlocked of course.

ill try that this weeknd. thanks for the info.