Anyone know where the 1 wire alt gets the igniter power from? Swapped in a new alternator, still not charging, and is sitting at 12.9 v. I have found a few saying gauges/ idle fuse. I have 0volts on igniter wire.
CK5
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1 wire alt question
- Thread starter jekquistk5
- Start date
I had the same problem when I converted my 8N ford to 12V. Went to my favorite alternator shop and got one custom built to fit the tractor mount.
Hooked up the single wire to the battery, cranked the tractor and had battery voltage.
It had a connection on the back, but I had specified a one wire, so did not have anything to hook to it.
Took it back, they put it on their machine, and it worked fine. I was standing there, and the only connection was the one wire to a battery. He questioned me about my hookup, and the only thing we could come up with was RPM.
The alternator needs a minimum RPM to start to bootstrap its self up. After it starts charging, it will continue to charge back down to idle.
My tractor did not run at a very high RPM when maxed out. I considered changing the alt pulley, but by maxing out the engine, it would start charging every time, so I let it go. I just revved it up once when it was warmed up, and the amp meter would start showing a charge every time and keep charging all the while it was running.
Try revving your engine up and see if the alternator will start charging. A true one wire alternator uses the residual magnetic field in the rotor to produce enough voltage to power the field, then when it starts producing power, it uses that to keep doing so.
Non-onewire alternators need the current from the alt bulb or a resistor to get them going. Just because you have a place to hook the ignitor does not mean it needs it. Mine has the hookup too but it is not hooked to anything.
Hooked up the single wire to the battery, cranked the tractor and had battery voltage.
It had a connection on the back, but I had specified a one wire, so did not have anything to hook to it.
Took it back, they put it on their machine, and it worked fine. I was standing there, and the only connection was the one wire to a battery. He questioned me about my hookup, and the only thing we could come up with was RPM.
The alternator needs a minimum RPM to start to bootstrap its self up. After it starts charging, it will continue to charge back down to idle.
My tractor did not run at a very high RPM when maxed out. I considered changing the alt pulley, but by maxing out the engine, it would start charging every time, so I let it go. I just revved it up once when it was warmed up, and the amp meter would start showing a charge every time and keep charging all the while it was running.
Try revving your engine up and see if the alternator will start charging. A true one wire alternator uses the residual magnetic field in the rotor to produce enough voltage to power the field, then when it starts producing power, it uses that to keep doing so.
Non-onewire alternators need the current from the alt bulb or a resistor to get them going. Just because you have a place to hook the ignitor does not mean it needs it. Mine has the hookup too but it is not hooked to anything.
It was the idle/gauge fuse. It looked good but had a hairline crack. All good now. 14.2V at idle now.
79rustyk10
3/4 ton status
My first thought as well. Common issue with old tractor stuff.
chulisohombre
1/2 ton status
Mine from summit won’t charge until it hits around 2200 rpm. I think many are setup like this to self excite so all the other wires aren’t needed.
So this means to me that it isn't a 1 wire alternator, but at least you got it fixed.
I have a 1 wire CS130 that charges immediately from start up. Different regulators start at low rotor speed.
Yah I got confused on the identification. I guess its a two wire, but most one wires just jump the igniter to the output.
