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10 bolt axle blew up

dwnhiller93

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Minot, North Dakota
Today, had just got off work, when my rear axle makes a loud clunk noise. Immediately get out, and laying on the cement was a piece of metal that shot through my rear end cover. Can anyone tell me what this is? I looked through the hole on the axle, and the gears look pretty chewed up.
rear.jpg

rear1.jpg
 
oh i want to bad. but my first priority is getting this thing back on the road since its my DD. and i have a pretty low-end budget now. but it definitely is in the near future!
 
factory gov-loc = traction device.

you now have the updated version called a gov-bom = it blew up. vary comon.

axle will require full rebuild. or better /faster /cheeper yet is find axle same ratio to bolt in and go.
 
My recomendation for cheap/upgrade is to get a 12 bolt rear axle. How much do you know about trucks and axles and such? Do you know the difference between the 10 bolt axle that you have and 12 bolt? A 12 bolt is a little stronger then your current axle, but is usually only $50-$100 more then a used replacement for your axle. Around here the 12 bolts go for around $150 or so for a useable, used axle. And you just dont have to worry about them self destructing for no good reason like the 10 bolts. They arent a ton stronger, but a 10 bolt will blow up on a stock truc that has never been off road, the 12 bolt almost never will. The best part is the 12 bolt is a true bolt in replacement. No modifications required. Just bolt in extra strength for just a few more bucks!
 
Another option is a 6 lug 14 bolt semi floating axle. They are extremely strong, only changes required is a conversion u-joint to connect the stock 1/2 ton driveshaft to the 3/4 ton axle.

Also easy to upgrade to 8 lug when you put in your 3/4 ton front someday, just an axle shaft & drum swap!
 
these are worse pics than his :whistle:

How does something like that happen? Can visual inspections on the rear end and gears help find potential problems or do they just explode without warning? I continue to get more and more nervious on my 10 bolt rear and 35's. Mostly street use so far and don't expect any heavy wheeling (pretty gentle really).

I've changed fluids and the gears "appear" fine to my eyes but who knows....

I just don't want a catestrophic explosion and the rear end locks up for some reason creating a huge accident or worse, roll over.:dunno:
 
The Gov-Loc diffs grenade easily due to their design--they free wheel until one wheel starts spinning faster than the other,and those flyweights then fly outward and jam into the carrier with a severe shock load when thry go to lock the axles..after enough of these cycles the carrier gets a crack in it,then goes "BOOOOOOOOOOOOMMM!..

It wasn't GM's best posi,thats for sure...there aint much you can do to keep one alive other than keeping thefluid changed and your FOOT off the skinny pedal when your getting into slippery conditions..some guys remove the "locking" mechanism and run it as an open diff to prevent this from happening...

I think a 12 bolt might need a different U-joint at the pinion than a 10 bolt,I am not sure though...my '85 Suburban has a 12 bolt,not sure if it was put in or was factory--supposedly GM stopped using 12 bolts in the early 80's,but I've seen more than one truck like mine that had a factory one installed --probably a "leftover" from old stock perhaps??..
 
Another option is a 6 lug 14 bolt semi floating axle. They are extremely strong, only changes required is a conversion u-joint to connect the stock 1/2 ton driveshaft to the 3/4 ton axle.

Also easy to upgrade to 8 lug when you put in your 3/4 ton front someday, just an axle shaft & drum swap!

if you want a 6 lug 14 semi float it will also need spring perches and shock mounts moved. as these axles were only offered in 88-up body style. and there is 2 diffrent widths from what i have read. 2wd was a slightly narrow axle compared to the wider 4wd axle.
 
My 10 bolt gov lock cracked pretty bad just after I bought my truck. I hadn't even gone wheeling yet, very possible the po knew it was cracked when he sold it (idk). Anyway, I stopped at the store on the way home from work about 3 weeks after changing the fluids and a full tune up on the rig. Pulled out of the parking space at the store, BANG, it sounded and felt like I was rear ended. Got out checked everything visually, thought to myself ....Oh sh*t, here we go. It got me home and to the shop. Dropped the cover, cracked almost in 2 separate pieces.

From what I have read and learned about them, the idea is really good, just the fact that they have cut the size down so much to fit into the 10 bolt housing, takes too much strength away from the structure during the shock loads. And as stated, the shock load is tremendous if beat or abused. Somefolks swear by them due to the nature, but you have to drive them knowing what you have under you. They won't lock up until they see 10 mph difference or 100 rpms difference or something like that, wheel to wheel. Then it's LOCKED HARD. No gradual clutch mechanism, just open to locked in a split second.

I threw in a 1 ton 14bff because I had a friend that had one. My goal with this rig when I bought it was to "restore" it, or resto-mod. Try to keep it stockish with some improvements where necessary. This is definitely one area I won't go back stock. Maybe back to a 10 bolt, but not with a gov-lok in it.
 
Id do a 14 bolt SF being that i got 6 lug wheels at the moment, but look around theres lots of 10 and 12 bolts for cheap. that will be cheapper than having that one rebuild.
 
oh i want to bad. but my first priority is getting this thing back on the road since its my DD. and i have a pretty low-end budget now. but it definitely is in the near future!

Because this is your daily driver I would find out what your gear ratio is and just slap another 10-bolt rear axle in there for around 100 bucks. I know it will kind of suck to put another 10-bolt in there but this will get you going the quickest and cheapest, after you get that in you can start looking and saving for a 3/4 ton axle set which will also require new 8-lug wheels.
 
What gears do you have? What size tires do you run? If a different ratio is better, now is the time.
 
so, update.

picked up a 12 bolt axle for $80 off craigslist the other day. put new bearings, axle seals, and new shoes in it. put it in yesterday, no problems.

i feel a little better having a 12 bolt under me now, for some odd reason haha :waytogo:

I have 3.73 gear ratio with 33 inch tires by the way blue 85
 
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