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10 bolt balljoints/ alignment

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K5Chris

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alright, i got my 10 bolt torn down right now. im insalling new balljoints and gears. im having trouble getting the steering knuckle off the axle. do you have to take the adjusting thing out to take the knuckle off? how do you do that? is there a special tool to turn the adjusting nut thing? does that adjust camber? cause i know my camber has been off. how do i get the camber right using driveway alighment?

thanks.
 
All the axles ive taken apart, you DO need to take out the threaded adjuster. The tool is a spanner wrench, like that for taking the nuts off a front axle. Spary plenty of penetrating lube in there. When you get it loose, then beat the inner C around the outside of the upper ball joint.

As far as alignment, I think they make offset ball joints.
 
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is there a special tool to turn the adjusting nut thing?

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I bought mine at Napa for about 20 bucks, they had to order it.
 
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Not really. It adjusts balljoint preload. Part of the balljoint installation steps requires you to adjust the balljoint preload by reinstalling the adjusting nut. Don't. Despite what the "know it alls" say, you won't be screwing up your new balljoints by just installing them and not messing with the "preload." If you were to go around to different shops and ask how they do it...probably 90 out of 100 would not mess with the adjuster.

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So because everyone else is ignorant its OK?
 
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If you were to go around to different shops and ask how they do it...probably 90 out of 100 would not mess with the adjuster.

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I wouldn't trust 90% of shops to check the air pressure in my tires, let alone change balljoints. They probably don't mess with the adjuster because they know nothing about it.
 
They probably don't mess with the adjuster for fear that the threads will come out with it, or it won't come out at all after they damage it.
 
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Bingo.

The only time I would ever mess with one is if it were cracked and needed replacing.

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You should contact Dana/Spicer I'm sure their engineers would like to hear your wisdom
 
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Bingo.

The only time I would ever mess with one is if it were cracked and needed replacing.

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You should contact Dana/Spicer I'm sure their engineers would like to hear your wisdom

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I'm pretty sure their engineers would agree.
 
Setting preload is easy. I see no reason not to replace the adjuster or set it. Once you get the pressure off the adjuster (by breaking loose the ball joint,) it comes out easy.


The adjusters (that I have seen) will have a split in it so when you torque down the ball joint, it will spread and lock into place via pressure. There is no way to adjust it when its under pressure. You have to break free the ball joint to adjust it. Most mechanics do not know this including an alignment shop I took my rig to a couple weeks ago /forums/images/graemlins/angryfire.gif They thought that is how you adjust camber lol They even asked me to bring my spanner in so they could align it right lol I had to inform them how it works...

I agree with the above, I would never trust a mechanic to *know* what they are doing /sigh

Get yourself a fish scale and shoot for 25 pounds of continuous pull from the tie rod holes.

Adjust the sleeve down to tighten (up to loosen). You may not even need the spanner to do this. I did not need mine the last time I did this. The old adjusters fell out (cracked in pieces) and the new ones moved real easy with no ball joint pressure.

The only hassle is having to break loose the ball joint to do it.
 
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You should contact Dana/Spicer I'm sure their engineers would like to hear your wisdom

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Nah, I wouldn't call it "wisdom"...more like common sense.

The only way I'll think differently is if someone can tell me they've personally had a balljoint fail prematurely or had a wheel fall off by doing it the "wrong" way.

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With the factory ball joints in my D44 (that I'm sure had never been adjusted) the nut got loose with the cotter pin still in it. I had to drill the nut off.

The adjuster sleeve wasn't all that hard to remove and the new one was in much better shape.

I think you would have to be an idiot (or just lazy good for nothing...) to not adjust the ball joints.

Talk to the AZ guys that still run D44's and replace the ball joints once a year.

Not adjusting the ball joint preload can cause the ball joints to be loaded in directions that they wern't entended to causing them to wear (or break) long before they should have....great idea...lets take something that is already weak and make it weaker /forums/images/graemlins/screwy.gif

I bet if you had keep up with the preload on the factory ball joints they wouldn't even have to be replaced now /forums/images/graemlins/shame.gif
 
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Bingo.

The only time I would ever mess with one is if it were cracked and needed replacing.

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You should contact Dana/Spicer I'm sure their engineers would like to hear your wisdom

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I'm pretty sure their engineers would agree.

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Bingo.

The only time I would ever mess with one is if it were cracked and needed replacing.

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You should contact Dana/Spicer I'm sure their engineers would like to hear your wisdom

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I'm pretty sure their engineers would agree.

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/forums/images/graemlins/histerical.gif /forums/images/graemlins/histerical.gif /forums/images/graemlins/histerical.gif /forums/images/graemlins/histerical.gif /forums/images/graemlins/histerical.gif /forums/images/graemlins/histerical.gif /forums/images/graemlins/histerical.gif /forums/images/graemlins/histerical.gif /forums/images/graemlins/histerical.gif

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Come to Illinois and work on something rusty and see what you say then.

I agree with you in a technical sense, but in reality, you are not getting the majority of those out....not in this salty environment.
 
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You should contact Dana/Spicer I'm sure their engineers would like to hear your wisdom

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Nah, I wouldn't call it "wisdom"...more like common sense.

The only way I'll think differently is if someone can tell me they've personally had a balljoint fail prematurely or had a wheel fall off by doing it the "wrong" way.

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Ignorance is bliss?
Just because you do not understand dosen't mean your right, also just because you have something to say doesn't mean you should say it. Giving the WRONG advice or opinion is worse that not replying at all.

Your wheel will most likely not fall off. However your axles performance will suffer and premature wear will result. Not having set the correct preload on an axle its no wonder you don't know the difference. To remove the knuckle from the axle you must first be smarter than the metal your working on. loosen the nuts but do not remove them (this insures the "heavy knuckle" does not smash your toes when it does break free) Take a big a$$ hammer and strike the axle right next to the nut where the balljoint goes through. I do the lower first then the upper. If you insist on hitting the joints then still leave the nuts partially on and fire away.
 
The know-it-all that I spoke of in my first post has arrived. /forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif

I'll delete my posts...ntaj*ep, you can unbunch your panties now.
 
Only looking to get fact to the people looking for it. You might try opening your mind and taking some pointers from people who do things the "right" way. I have never said I know everything about anything but I have learned alot over the years by finding out the way things work and WHY. (yes sometimes bt trial and error) If that makes me a "know it all" then so be it.

Panties offically un bunched
 
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