Don't laugh /forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif I have a 87 K5 that I am building up for mild off roading ( hunting, fishing ) with daily driver in mind. Tire size will be 33x10.5x15. I don't think I need to upgrade the axles,and want to know what can be done to put some beef in the 10 bolts? Gears will be 4.10's with a trachtech locker front and rear. I was leaning towards c-clip eliminators and 30 spline axles. /forums/images/graemlins/1zhelp.gif
CK5
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10 bolt build up
- Thread starter CR
- Start date
30 splines are senseless unless you plan on getting 4340 shafts or something.
I'd go with rear disc if you're worried about losing a tire.
I'd go with rear disc if you're worried about losing a tire.
Fubeca
1/2 ton status
I don't know if anyone currently markets a 10 bolt c-clup eliminator kit, but that would be nice. I think that the 30 spline axles give very little if any strength increase and are not worth the trouble.
i was advised not to use c clip elimators on a street driven vehicle. if you are going to upgrade the axleshafts, get some alloy ones from moser, 50 bucks more per axle and they dont neck down at the splines. i second upgrading to disc brakes to keep the tires on the truck. for the front i would just upgrade to the spicer 5-760x u joints.
DUKE
1/2 ton status
I wheeled with my 10 bolt for a good long time with 35x12.5x15s on it. i have several good tid bits for you
1. go get longer studs. the old ones just pound out and press in the new ones. easy. I lost a wheel once do to them shearing off.
2. Spider gears are the next weakest thing. Ive gone through three sets. this is actaully a good thing, keeps somthing bigger or more exspensive from breaking. Just be sure your magnet is strong, as the pinion sucks up shrapnel and bye bye axle.
3. there is a never ending supply of 10 bolt parts. I recently had a guy offer to pay me to take 3 gm 10 bolt rears off his hands.
For your set up i think your fine. I wheeled rather hard and hit all but the hardest moab trails with the 10bolt. The driver has a lot to do with how much breaks. wheel smarter not harder.
1. go get longer studs. the old ones just pound out and press in the new ones. easy. I lost a wheel once do to them shearing off.
2. Spider gears are the next weakest thing. Ive gone through three sets. this is actaully a good thing, keeps somthing bigger or more exspensive from breaking. Just be sure your magnet is strong, as the pinion sucks up shrapnel and bye bye axle.
3. there is a never ending supply of 10 bolt parts. I recently had a guy offer to pay me to take 3 gm 10 bolt rears off his hands.
For your set up i think your fine. I wheeled rather hard and hit all but the hardest moab trails with the 10bolt. The driver has a lot to do with how much breaks. wheel smarter not harder.
I wheeled my rear open 10B with 33x14.50 SSR's and 350HP pushing but I only did mud and some moderate pulling. I never broke anything except for rear driveshafts. A 33x10.50 tire that is an A/T or mild M/T is not going to put much more stress on everything than your stock 31's would...Especially if you run some aluminum rims. With alums and 33" A/T's I bet that combo wouldn't be any heavier than stock steel rallys and 31x10.50" A/T's. 4.10's will be about perfect in my opinion and as long as you use a decent locker I would highly doubt you will actually ever break anything WITH the stock shafts. Might be a different story with a steel rim though.... For the front I say run it stock and just fix and beef up later IF it breaks. I have managed to keep a front 4.10 10B alive without any breakage with superlight alums. and 35x16" boggers and it is completely stock.
I would say gear them, lock the back, LS the front or leave it open and not worry about it. /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif
I would say gear them, lock the back, LS the front or leave it open and not worry about it. /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif
Hossbaby50
3/4 ton status
Here is my advice if you are set on running 10 bolts.
#1. Don't do the c-clip eliminators. They leak really bad on street vehicles from what I hear. They are for drag race only applications.
#2. Replace the rear differential (govlock, open) with a full case limited slip or locker. Takes away a major weak point.
#3. Disc brakes in the rear. Will keep the axle in if you break it hopefully.
#4. Spare axleshafts front and rear. (Mosers would be nice for the back with your stockers as spares)
#5. Good ujoints in your front axleshafts. (Spicer, Neapco,...)
#6. Easy on the go pedal and drive smart.
33's aren't a huge strain on the front 10 bolt as long as it is in good shape. I run 35's and a locker in my front 10 bolt and so far so good. I make sure I carry spare parts though since I am going to rock crawl it. I carry the following for my front axle. (inner and outer axleshafts ready to go, spindle, wheel bearings, spindle nuts, yoke, races, locking hub)
Harley
#1. Don't do the c-clip eliminators. They leak really bad on street vehicles from what I hear. They are for drag race only applications.
#2. Replace the rear differential (govlock, open) with a full case limited slip or locker. Takes away a major weak point.
#3. Disc brakes in the rear. Will keep the axle in if you break it hopefully.
#4. Spare axleshafts front and rear. (Mosers would be nice for the back with your stockers as spares)
#5. Good ujoints in your front axleshafts. (Spicer, Neapco,...)
#6. Easy on the go pedal and drive smart.
33's aren't a huge strain on the front 10 bolt as long as it is in good shape. I run 35's and a locker in my front 10 bolt and so far so good. I make sure I carry spare parts though since I am going to rock crawl it. I carry the following for my front axle. (inner and outer axleshafts ready to go, spindle, wheel bearings, spindle nuts, yoke, races, locking hub)
Harley
- Joined
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1st- Welcome to CK5!
Next, buy spare axles, keep the ones you have well lubed and just take care of them. I don't think you should sink a bunch of money it them because the more you go off-road and get into tough spots, the more you will just want to change the axles to something stronger. Hang around here....you'll see!
I ran 38.5's on my 10's and never broke them but I still went one ton. You'll get tied of trying to be easy on them all the time. Oh, and maybe get a winch which will help get you through the tough stuff.
Next, buy spare axles, keep the ones you have well lubed and just take care of them. I don't think you should sink a bunch of money it them because the more you go off-road and get into tough spots, the more you will just want to change the axles to something stronger. Hang around here....you'll see!
I ran 38.5's on my 10's and never broke them but I still went one ton. You'll get tied of trying to be easy on them all the time. Oh, and maybe get a winch which will help get you through the tough stuff.
75-K5
3/4 ton status
You just joined on the 21st and no one had taken that username? That's amazing! /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
Thanks for the replies. If one were gonna swap in a 14 bolt are you getting them from junk yards? How much on average? Aren't the shock mounts in the wrong place?
What would you do about the front axle being a different lug pattern, convert the 6 lug to eight? /forums/images/graemlins/doah.gif I know I know, swap in a Dana 60. But I am trying to go cheap and it is only a daily driver used mildly off road.
Sorry for all the questions.
What would you do about the front axle being a different lug pattern, convert the 6 lug to eight? /forums/images/graemlins/doah.gif I know I know, swap in a Dana 60. But I am trying to go cheap and it is only a daily driver used mildly off road.
Sorry for all the questions.
Z3PR
Banned
Dollor for dollor, a 3/4 ton axle swap still makes sence to me. Granted you'll have to get 8 lug rims, but when you figure cost of regearing the stock axles, and still being weak as stock axles are, the 3/4 ton swap looks better and better. Only bad thing is how low the center of the 14 Bolt FF hangs. /forums/images/graemlins/deal.gif You can get the 3/4 ton axles (14 Bolt FF rear, D44/10 bolt front) from K20 pick ups. I bought mine off a private owner for a whole whooping $250.00 for the matched set.
If you get a 14BFF out of a 3/4 ton it will be a direct bolt in. As for the front...try to get the matching D44 or 10B because it will already have the same gears and be 8 lug. Swapping over from a 1/2 10B to a 3/4 10B is a DIRECT BOLT IN. Same goes for a D44 to D44. If you go D44 to 10B or visa versa you will need different brake lines. A 10B and D60 caliper share the same size brake line fitting.
Hossbaby50
3/4 ton status
You can use your 10 bolt calipers on a D44 or vice versa so you don't need new lines though.
You will probably need a conversion ujoint to mate your stock driveshaft to the 1350 yoke on a 14bff though too. Unless you truck was originally equipped with a manual or you swapped to 1350.
You also may have some ebrake issues with different year 14bffs. My 14bff is out of a 78ish and my ebrakes on my 85 won't work without being modified to work.
You also might need to drop your transfer case some or add a shim to deal with the angle of your rear driveshaft too since the pinion on the 14bff will move forward about 1" or so from your 1/2 ton axle.
Harley
You will probably need a conversion ujoint to mate your stock driveshaft to the 1350 yoke on a 14bff though too. Unless you truck was originally equipped with a manual or you swapped to 1350.
You also may have some ebrake issues with different year 14bffs. My 14bff is out of a 78ish and my ebrakes on my 85 won't work without being modified to work.
You also might need to drop your transfer case some or add a shim to deal with the angle of your rear driveshaft too since the pinion on the 14bff will move forward about 1" or so from your 1/2 ton axle.
Harley
