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10 bolt details

mudbuggy

mudbuggy

1/2 ton status
Joined
Jun 10, 2010
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Location
Indianapolis, Indiana
When a 10 bolt fails, typically where does it fail?
What are the tallest and shortest gears that can physically fit in the hogshead? - non locking!

I'm thinking of building a toy!

All thoughts are welcome
 
10 bolt front or rear?

A rear axle would be breaking an axle shaft if you put large tires or hammer on the truck, that would be a typical faillure.

A front would be the same thing but on the conecting u joints.

As for gears 2.73-4.56 if not higher
 
So what about using a 10 bolt rear end with 16" cogs turning tracks?:eek1: Think that I could use the emergency brakes to 'hold' one side for a turn. I'm really not up to speed on the cutting brakes kind of thing so I figured I'd ask the brotherhood.

If you don't know what I mean then check this out
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cG2M2KQGQng

I originally got the idea from this
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GRPHT9wm5cI

I've been emailing with the designer of it for a few months trying to work out a way to design a 'ripsaw' type machine on the 'PTV' theory. The designer of the 'PTV' has had a trailer hooked to his machine and it has failed quickly every time he has tried. The clutches he used in his design are simple friction clutches, when a lever is pushed forward it causes the follower pulley to force on the loose belt that is wrapped between the motor pulley and the drive pulley.

See I have been through a few 'standard mowers' in the past number of years pulling a pull-behind 44" mower and the log splitter. The tractor weights less then the mover itself. To compound the problems, I can only cut the quad trails when it's dry, and can only cut maybe 20% of them then. The John Deere mower just can't cut it, literally! I want to build a mini ripsaw for pulling the mower on all of the quad trails and not have to worry about having to retrieve both of the pieces of equipment if the mower fails, which from history is just a matter of time.

We have a number of quads but all of them are designed for speed, not work, all of them are rear wheel drive, none of them have hitches or the gussets required to support a hitch of any type. We do have a large tractor a Branson 35 horse diesel, but it has a front bucket and a backhoe on it, let's just say that it doesn't turn to good in the middle of the woods and it is about a foot wider then some of the trails. Here's the tractor link http://www.bransontractor.com/Products/Tractors/10-Series/3510i.aspx

Here's the link to the pull behind mower
http://www.mysears.com/Swisher-44-in-Trailcutter-ATV-Pull-Behind-Rough-Cut-Mower-reviews

Originally I was thinking about cutting down two cad axles and using the interlocks as clutches then I realized that to do that would cause more work then it would save. I started to think about a mini skidder, but they tear the hell out of the area they drive over. Then the 10 bolt popped into my head, i'm sure I'll get another idea tomorrow. I'm hoping that I can keep the weight of the machine right around 1000 pounds, but in the same width as a quad, I was even kicking the idea of building a mini half-track which doesn't sound bad with the exception of having to keep the front axle powered so it would be able to turn and not 'snow plow' through a turn. So now that you have a better understanding of my idea, or lack there of, what does everyone think?:dunno:
 
Damn I'm a dumbass, who says its got to be a mechanical driveline, hydraulics would do exactly what I need done and I can use veg oil in case there's ever a blown hose. Won't set any ground speed records but it might just work. Mmmm think I have my next to the pump configuration.
 
You can go down to 5.38 on a 10-bolt, but most people start to worry about pinion strength at 4.88 or so. I'm assuming this machine would be geared pretty low. Will it have a transfer case?
 
Ya know honestly I don't have a clue! I'm not sure if I would really need one, unless I do use one to get the gearing in the right range, and I don't know if I would have enough room either.

I know that I could get what I want out of hydraullics, but I would have a set maximum speed, unless I would change motors, but with a mechanical system I could change the gears to get to the maximum speed I want. I just don't know if I can use a rear end as a split power unit for both tracks. That is what is hanging me up. If I would want to turn left, I apply the left brake on the rear end, then what would happen, the brake engages, but then what, does the excess power feed to the other side? I guess that is what I am hung up about. What happens when your in a buggy and the left brake is applied? Maybe I could mount clutches on the ends of the rearend. Then the rear end would spin as normal, but as a turn is made instead of appling a brake I would operate a clutch/brake, the bad thing is the lightest track that I have found almost 800 pounds and is 15 foot long, which is about a 5 foot circle. That's a lot of weight to start and stop on a split second, that might make the clutch burn out quickly and of course to replace a clutch I would have to remove the track unless I figure out a trick way of doing all of this. :dunno:
 
I have been toying with the idea of fusing two snowmobiles together side by side for a tracked vehicle. Independent engines solve your speed issue for turning.
 
There was that show on discovery channel where they made tracked a tracked veichle they used a 90s dodge with full tracks and tried braking one side for turning it turned but not sharp at all. but who knows maybe that truck had a limited slip that they didnt check if that would make a difference:dunno:

found the video on youtube. it doesnt show the truck turning but pretty much when he applied the brake to one side he barely had any power feeding the other side.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LvzGfM_0J_M&feature=related
 
Using an open rear diff, if one side was stopped cold, the other should spin twice as fast, which could work, but will be difficult to drive. You waste power in the brake on one side, until it is stopped completely. By that point, the track that is spinning is at 1/2 the original gear ratio.

You would make headway with double or triple differentials, but that's getting into serious fabrication work.

Plus, can a 10-bolt shaft really stand up to 800+lb tracks?

How about some hydraulic motors from old fork lifts or something like that?
 
I was tinkering with a hydraulic motor on each side maybe then mechanically attached to gearboxes or transfercases for each side. That's the problem there's not a calculator for tracks! Damn you Murphy!

Can find motors new on fleabay for 20 bucks, the thing that costs is the valve that that allows each spool to work independently of each other without removing flow from the first one to the second one (one the valve bank). I can get around that by instead of using one valve bank for both tracks, use two single valve banks teed into the supply line from the pump. Of course all of these would only work with an open center setup. My biggest fear of using hydraullics is that I will run out of rpm to quick?!? Quite possible that a two speed gearbox could be connected to the shaft on the hydraullic motor, then somehow, connect both of the two speed gearbox selectors tied together.

The thing that is kicking my ass right now is the tracks, Ripsaw runs on tracks that are engineered in house (Howe and Howe) that weight 350 pounds each. Of course when I called them to order tracks they wouldn't sell just the tracks. Starting to think about making them out of flatbar and chain, then welding a piece of angle iron to each flatbar. Maybe a couple of hundred bucks, and I could easily repair it with the stick welder. Eel river makes sets for the bobcats, the lightest set they have uses 3/8" chain. Thinking that I could use 7ga x 2 flatbar and 1/4" chain

here's what they have - http://www.eelriversteel.com/ got some sweet ****! I've got to go in on Sunday for snow fight, I've got a steel book at my shop, I'll do the weight thing then. I'm hopeful that I can stay around 4-500 pounds. I originally wanted this thing to weigh no more then a cool 1000 pounds, but if the tracks are going to weigh in around 4-500 then may need to refigure overall specs.
 
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