Just wondering if a 10 bolt with a gov-loc decided to fail,could you just take out the guts of the gov-loc and run it as an open diff ?...
CK5
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10 bolt gov-loc --can it be deleted ?
- Thread starter diesel4me
- Start date
I think your only option would be to weld it
If you can view videos pretty easy, check youtube for the one on how the gov-lock operates and is constructed. It's good. Normally when the gov-lock fails it either strips the teeth (thus no locking) or shatters the carrier, but the carrier is different anyway, so no you couldn't just take out the gov-lock components.
Yes, I have done this on 2 diffs. One 10 bolt and a 12 bolt to help keep them from breaking. Just remove the governor. The little spool thing with the weight that pivots out. Now the diff wont lock and works like an open axle. Didn't break one after that.
Reason I ask is my '85 Burb might have a gov-loc,and yesterday when I went to move it from the grassy area its been sitting on for over a year,I had to spin the tires a few times ,and heard some nasty grinding noises coming from the drivers side rear wheel--also noticed last time I moved it on my driveway before that,that the rear end would go "clunk" and the truck would wag its tail a bit,like something is binding up in the rear diff...might be something as minor as a frozen up u-joint too though..(but I am never that lucky)..
I only got to "test drive" the truck a short distance before I bought it 6 years ago,and haven't had it registered,so with my luck something in the rear diff is lunched...if so,I'm not too enthused about having to either buy another 6 lug 3.73 axle for it--or waste more money "upgrading" to an 8 lug axle...
This might be the final nail in its coffin--truck already has an ailing 700R4 and I'm not up to doing axle and tranny swaps any more....since its once nice body has now rotted the rockers and soon the rest of it will follow suit,I'm tempted to just cut it up,or forget ever driving it on the street,just keep it for a yard plow truck..
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If scrap was not down to 15 bucks a ton,I'd be tempted to just make a phone call and make it dissapear..but I may as well keep it for parts seeing my pickup is a diesel too..
I only got to "test drive" the truck a short distance before I bought it 6 years ago,and haven't had it registered,so with my luck something in the rear diff is lunched...if so,I'm not too enthused about having to either buy another 6 lug 3.73 axle for it--or waste more money "upgrading" to an 8 lug axle...
This might be the final nail in its coffin--truck already has an ailing 700R4 and I'm not up to doing axle and tranny swaps any more....since its once nice body has now rotted the rockers and soon the rest of it will follow suit,I'm tempted to just cut it up,or forget ever driving it on the street,just keep it for a yard plow truck..
..If scrap was not down to 15 bucks a ton,I'd be tempted to just make a phone call and make it dissapear..but I may as well keep it for parts seeing my pickup is a diesel too..
It is still a weak carrier, even if the gov-lock never engages. Mine was non-op (like you describe) and I wound up with a fragmented carrier. FWIW.
Isn't the governor inside the carrier cavity? If so, I'd think it'd be easier to simply replace the carrier.
It is still a weak carrier, even if the gov-lock never engages. Mine was non-op (like you describe) and I wound up with a fragmented carrier. FWIW.
Isn't the governor inside the carrier cavity? If so, I'd think it'd be easier to simply replace the carrier.
True, the carrier itself seems to be a weak spot. I broke two 10 bolts in as many months with Gov-Locks in them. The third rear end I took the governor out and got ten years out of it. It was very easy to take remove. No major disassembly. It was a long time ago but it seems like I didn't even have to pull the carrier out of the housing. It definitely isn't a fix for the problem, just a little help.
