bot0611
1/2 ton status
WHats the name of the tool i need to remove the lock nut, i need to take the discs out.
thanks.
thanks.
CK5
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10 bolt lock nut tool
- Thread starter bot0611
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Hub socket
try this
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item...&group_ID=1337&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog
I assumed you were talking about front rotor.
try this
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item...&group_ID=1337&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog
I assumed you were talking about front rotor.
moneypit_K5
1/2 ton status
$60 bucks?
just go down to your local autozone/cheap parts place and pick it up for 20 bucks.
- Joined
- Mar 3, 2000
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I agree but snap on has some good pics
moneypit_K5
1/2 ton status
i hear that!
runamok151
1 ton status
if you have the choice, get the socket that does both d60s and d44/10 bolts. never know when you might need it. mine was less than $20
moneypit_K5
1/2 ton status
never seen one like that, how could it fit both?
Kragen rents a set. If you want to buy it though, its like $20 for the single.
I say rent it, decide if you want it, and then you know which size you used and get the right one.
I say rent it, decide if you want it, and then you know which size you used and get the right one.
runamok151
1 ton status
one hub need the teeth at the end of the socket, the other needs the teeth inside the socket. this one has both.
No sh!t, and its a combination of 4 and 6 prong. Thats pretty sweet. Doubt any of the local parts places have that one though.....
bot0611
1/2 ton status
I will buy it, never now when you need to tear the **** down again..anybody has the torque spec for this nut or should i just give it a good effort on it
Thanks guys
Thanks guys
From http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=183180
21> Now push your outer bearing in there and take your inner bearing lock nut, the one with the pin sticking out. Run it in with the pin facing you. get it hand tight wobbling the hub in all directions to make sure you get the hub and bearings set. Then take your spindle/bearing socket and a torque wrench set to 50 ft/lbs. and proceed to torque it down to 50 while at the same time turning the rotor/hub. It helps to have an extra hand here. Then once you reach 50, then back the nut off 1/4 turn and then re-torque it to 35 ft lbs., while turning the rotor.
22> Now comes the fun part. Now slide the lock ring in there, through all that grease and with the tooth and keyway lined up slide it in there. If the pin on the lock nut is not lined up with any of the whole in the lock ring, first try to turn the lock ring around and see if any of them line up, if not, you then need to back the lock nut off "NO MORE" than 3/8 of a turn. Then try the lock-ring again. Both sides if need be. Repeat all this until the pin lines up with one of the wholes. Then take the outer lock nut and torque it down to 80 ft lbs. On this one you can go a little over if you like, but no more than 10 to 15 lbs. or so.
21> Now push your outer bearing in there and take your inner bearing lock nut, the one with the pin sticking out. Run it in with the pin facing you. get it hand tight wobbling the hub in all directions to make sure you get the hub and bearings set. Then take your spindle/bearing socket and a torque wrench set to 50 ft/lbs. and proceed to torque it down to 50 while at the same time turning the rotor/hub. It helps to have an extra hand here. Then once you reach 50, then back the nut off 1/4 turn and then re-torque it to 35 ft lbs., while turning the rotor.
22> Now comes the fun part. Now slide the lock ring in there, through all that grease and with the tooth and keyway lined up slide it in there. If the pin on the lock nut is not lined up with any of the whole in the lock ring, first try to turn the lock ring around and see if any of them line up, if not, you then need to back the lock nut off "NO MORE" than 3/8 of a turn. Then try the lock-ring again. Both sides if need be. Repeat all this until the pin lines up with one of the wholes. Then take the outer lock nut and torque it down to 80 ft lbs. On this one you can go a little over if you like, but no more than 10 to 15 lbs. or so.
bot0611
1/2 ton status
Would it be a good choice to change the lug stud to 1/2"
Are you talking about the wheel studs? Because I tried to find a larger one that fits in there and didn't have any success. You want one long enough to go through the hub and the rotor and have the knurling in the right place.
If you find one, please post up the application it's intended for.
If you find one, please post up the application it's intended for.
I've also seen these sockets made out of large standard sockets. You either grind away everything at the end except the prong locations or you weld 4 teeth onto the end. I don't think it's necessary anymore, because they seem to be on a part store shelf in every town now. I haven't heard of one breaking.
BRIAN THOMAS
Registered Member
You can get them cheap at autozone. get in the zone.
