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10 bolt strength

neverendingproject

neverendingproject

1/2 ton status
Joined
Jul 24, 2005
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Tulsa, OK
I was wondering... I have stock 10 bolts front and rear, and i was wondering how much of a beating they will take. They are open diff. and I will be running 33*12.50 tires. My new engine will be putting around 450 lb ft at the crank. If i get into low range, first gear, thats 3600 lb ft at the driveshafts! So does anyone have an idea of what these can take? I was thinking of goin to 35's later and superior axle shafts. I would like to keep the 10 bolts just to keep wieght down.
opinions please!
 
Drive sanely and it will hold up to 35's , especially if your open . I am running my 1/2 ton rear locked on 33's . Carry shafts anyway , and never wheel alone regardless what axles you have :D
 
With that much power and 35's you will be pushing the limits of those axles even on the street. IF, and only if, you drive easy they will last. With that said I ran 10-bolts for a couple of years with 33's and 35's and moderate wheelin'. The rear had an aftermarket limited slip (much stronger than the stock setup) and 30-spline shafts.......never broke it but always had spare shafts and had the thought in the back of my mind when on the trail. I also had about 1/2 the power.

Open diffs are not necessarily better for keeping weak axles alive off-road. When open you have to hit stuff a lot harder and always have the tires spinning like crazy which then causes shock loads in the system when a tire finds some traction. I've personally seen as many people break axle parts with open diffs as I have seen with lockers.
 
I blew an open 10 bolt rear to Kingdom Come. Like 6.2 said, the shock load is what killed it. That was with a 305 (rebuilt) and 35's. It hopped, hooked up, and sent the spiders to heck.

John
 
Don't waste your money on the upgrade shafts. Most folks that have spent the money on better shafts, u-joints, etc., on smaller axles have just ended up ripping teeth off of the ring gear instead.

If you drive sanely, you may find that you don't even need the better shafts or bigger axles.
 
you don't have to worry about 3600 lbs at the driveshaft unless your motor makes that at the flywheel...

Low range will only get you to peak power faster at a slower mph. It doesn't increase power.

That being said a locker like lock right or detroit will strengthen the carriage considerably. As long as you don't weld the spiders or put a spool in it and don't jump it they should last. I've wheeled HARD on my open 10b's with 35's for a year and a half and never had a problem.
 
All caused by 35's on 10 bolts with 4.10 gears. Tired oil burning 350 and all. If you are easy on it they will last a long time

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G80_locker_parts.JPG


G80_locker_parts_1.JPG
 
dirtwarrior17 said:
you don't have to worry about 3600 lbs at the driveshaft unless your motor makes that at the flywheel...

Low range will only get you to peak power faster at a slower mph. It doesn't increase power.
Click to expand...

Gears act as a torque multiplier. Low range makes a HUGE difference in the torque that the axles see. The gross computation is Torque x Trans Ratio x T-case ratio x Axle Ratio. A 300 lb/ft. engine can create some serious torque at the axles. With a 700R4, NP241 in low range, and 4.56's in the diffs the number works out to 300 x 3.06 x 2.71 x 4.56 = 11344.2768 lb/ft. of torque at the diff case. :eek1: In a perfect traction condition this would be divided equally across all 4 axles. But when you're running lockers and have tires in the air, then you can transfer most, or even all, of that torque to a single axle shaft. That's typically the instant when things go boom... :wink1:
 
HarryH3 said:
Gears act as a torque multiplier. Low range makes a HUGE difference in the torque that the axles see. The gross computation is Torque x Trans Ratio x T-case ratio x Axle Ratio. A 300 lb/ft. engine can create some serious torque at the axles. With a 700R4, NP241 in low range, and 4.56's in the diffs the number works out to 300 x 3.06 x 2.71 x 4.56 = 11344.2768 lb/ft. of torque at the diff case. :eek1: In a perfect traction condition this would be divided equally across all 4 axles. But when you're running lockers and have tires in the air, then you can transfer most, or even all, of that torque to a single axle shaft. That's typically the instant when things go boom... :wink1:
Click to expand...


I C... For some reason i thought he meant at the wheels...

my bad. :wink1:
 
dirtwarrior17 said:
I C... For some reason i thought he meant at the wheels...

my bad. :wink1:
Click to expand...


At the wheels is where you get the greatest amount of torque multiplication.

The further down the drivetrain you go the greater the mechanical advantage you have because each time you run through a component IE. transmission, transfer case, differential you go through a set of reduction gears. The exception being high range in your t-case or overdrive in your transmission which would negate some of the torque multiplication and have the opposite effect.
 
i dont do any rock crawling, dont have the rocks, so mostly mud. In those situations, i may not need 4-lo, and as far as i can tell, people break them in the rocks,running 4-lo... true? with that said though, they will still be weak, so what are the options? I would like to keep the 6 lug wheels, but if I have problems i may have to go to heavier 3/4 or 1 ton running gear. As I said earlier, i would like to keep the wieght down. Ive seen the 10 bolt sitting next to a 14b ff axle and it looks like there would be a BIG weight difference. so once again... opinions? :confused: :confused: :confused:
 
Posted in the other 10 bolt thread, but my opinion from what I've seen on here, short of monster tires, strong motors, and/or a lot of pedal and HARD offroading, the gov-lock 10 bolts are the ones that cause all the problems.

I certainly wouldn't spend money on shafts or anything like that, either drive it like you want to and see if you end up in the end upgrading when it blows up, or replace it now with something stronger. In your case, the 14SF is about the easiest option, but finding one in your ratio and 6 lug is fairly difficult.
 
Personally, IMO, if you have the cash, go bigger, don't really need the D60 up front right off as long as you take it easy on the trails, and don't overwork it.

The way i see it now, after i broke the axle housing on my old 10 b, when you go 1 ton, you really won't have to worry too much about breaking stuff, can still be done, but not as easily as 10b stuff.

and yes there is a slight difference in weight,,,the 14bff weighs about as much as my ex-mother-in-law :doah:

guess i need to stop now, sorry :doah:
 
when i get my 84 m1009 mil blazer in 2 weeks i doubt i will have any probs on stocker 10b axels. but i will be running 31's :waytogo: even plan to put some lockers in maybe.
 
Robert79K5 said:
At the wheels is where you get the greatest amount of torque multiplication.

The further down the drivetrain you go the greater the mechanical advantage you have because each time you run through a component IE. transmission, transfer case, differential you go through a set of reduction gears. The exception being high range in your t-case or overdrive in your transmission which would negate some of the torque multiplication and have the opposite effect.
Click to expand...

I thought he meant laying down 3000 ft lbs in lo on a chassis dyno... ;)
 
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