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10 bolt to 14 bolt ff e-brake hookup???

ckb1981

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I just swapped out my 10 bolt rear for a 14 bolt ff on my 84 ck5 and am wondering if anybody has a good idea of how to set up the emergency brake cable. I am not going to keep my 700R4 in this vehicle. I am switching to an SM 465 w/NP205 so the emergency brake is going to be important to have. Any advice would be gladly appreciated. :D
 
What year is your 14FF?

And take a look at the cables. Are they both equal length or is the passenger side longer than the drivers side?
 
14 bolt came off of a 76 3/4 ton standard cab. The e-brake setup that came with my 10 bolt went down the drivers side frame rail, then hooked up to the rearend's cables from the drivers side . This means that the original cable on the 10 bolt rearend was longer on the passenger side, and ran along the rearend to hookup with the drivers side rear cable. After they hooked together from the rearend there was the driver's side cable on the frame rail that hooked up to the two cables on the rearend (10 bolt). The 14 bolt e-brake cables seem to be the same length. Sorry, I seem to be long winded today and pics may help.
 
14 bolts of the same era have the same cables as the tens bolts. When I installed mine in my '90 Suburban it came from a '76 K20 and had the same cables as yours. I installed brakes and baking plates from a late to mid 80's 14bolt and they were the same as my factory brake cables.
 
You need to find any 3/4 ton backing plates from either a FF or SF as both will work as long as their both 13" drum shoe size.

The years to look for are '83 on up. '82 on down will have equal-length cables.

If you look closely, you will see the equal-length cables are fastened to the plates by 2 nuts/bolts where the '83 on up use press-in type cables.

Either look for a SF rear or another FF from '83 on up and you will be set.
 
Oh yeah, don't try using 1 ton plates. They sit back recessed too far to use 3/4 ton brakes. Only way to use 1 ton plates is if you were to swap the 3/4 ton drums out for 1 ton drums.
 
if your switching to a 205 tcase you will probably need a new drive shaft. have you considered getting a flange for the tcase to mount rotor and caliper on for a parking brake? then you can still do discs later on your 14 bolt.
 
Thanks for the help everyone. Have got everything in the works now for the e-brake hookup. Should have looked into the newer style 14 bolt before I started, but the price was just right on the older 76 stuff. I bought the entire 76 p/u so I will use the drive shaft from it, just shortened. Again, thanks for the info.
 
when you get yours hooked up, can you snap me a few pics of the e-brake cables and how they are routed and such. mine was never hooked up when the 1 tons were swapped over.
 
mine were cut so here's what I did, it works great
100_2446.jpg


100_2447.jpg
 
Uh... is that really a hose clamp holding your e-brake cable together? Remind me not to drive in front of you.
 
mine were cut so here's what I did, it works great

I'm guessing that's the old style equal length. Did you just hook one side up?

I was told my 14 bolt came out of a '79 but it has the single hole angled backing plate like my 10 bolt does, not the "2 bolt" style I've heard of. There was nothing connected when I got it so I don't know what the originals looked like. :dunno:

The axles I bought were fully rebuilt and ready to go and the guy I bought them from went 1 ton so he got a D60 and a 14 with the 1-ton spacing, so I suppose he could have swapped in the newer style backing plate on this 3/4 when he rebuilt them.
 
See, this is why I want to go to discs. Allbeit, I was lucky enough to already have the 14BFF, with drums, but I don't envy anyone that has to piece this all together.

My hat's off to you gents!!!
 
I'm guessing that's the old style equal length. Did you just hook one side up?

my blazer is originally set-up equal length with the cables coming from the e-brake pedal, then it splits behind the T-case. my 14 bolt is from an 84 burb and it had the rear passenger side cable coming across the pinion then both heading up the driver side, I just cut the 14 bolt's cables to the correct length to reach the stock joiner shown in the pics. I bought a e-brake cable repair kit from parts plus but it kept slipping so that's why I ended up using the hose clamp
 
I am in the same situation. I have '77 3/4 ton axles and an '87 blazer. I have been wondering if i was going to have a problem with the cable length. Could I just get the rear parking break cables, for a newer truck, from the parts store? Would these be as direct replacement for the old model?
 
I am in the same situation. I have '77 3/4 ton axles and an '87 blazer. I have been wondering if i was going to have a problem with the cable length. Could I just get the rear parking break cables, for a newer truck, from the parts store? Would these be as direct replacement for the old model?

I'm gonna pull the drums on mine this weekend and see what the deal is. A buddy of mine down at the parts store said I could borrow a set of Blazer cables to test for fitment and such, so hopefully I'll have an answer (and some pics to accompany it) soon.
 
In any case, 82 and older 14BFF ALL had 2-bolt style parking brake cable mounts at the backing plate, '83 and newer had the press-in type from the factory.
 
In any case, 82 and older 14BFF ALL had 2-bolt style parking brake cable mounts at the backing plate, '83 and newer had the press-in type from the factory.

Is there a way to tell this from the outside? Are the bolts outside or inside the backing plate?
 
outside. just look at where your parking brake cables where they enter the backing plate. if there are no screws its a newer style 14BFF, if there are two screws its an older 14BFF
 

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