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10 bolts be ok with street on 33's? UPDATE #44

Exactly, no typical sagging of the rear end like the civilian K5's develop. The 33's filled the well on my buddies pretty good but still had plenty of clearance. They gave the truck a real stout, rugged look with out the stilty look a lift kit can give without enough tire diameter if you know what I mean.

The chassis is like brand new on this truck with all the tie rods, linkage, bushings, etc being perfect. If I need to re-gear getting different axles would offer up more work as I doubt the tie rods, stabilizer, etc. would be good enough to use. All the time changing those components wouldn't make sense. Added a pic of the chassis. Not a good one but here it is with the 33's on it now.

wow you really went over the top with fender trimming to get those to fit :thumb:
 
Yea, I started trimming and got carried away! :DActually doing a frame off/rotisserie deal. Body is currently getting block sanded as I write this and should be going back on within a week.
 
A couple of comments:

- When people talking about axles breaking with age and wearing out, it's based on the number of miles and how they are used...not on how many years old they are. A 5 year old truck with 100k miles hauling around a big trailer has a whole heck of a lot more wear, tear, and fatigue on the axle as compared to a 30 year old truck with 50k miles that spent it's life driving grandma to church.

- 3.08's are way too high of a gear to really make OD in the 700r4 useful. It will probably hold OD on flat ground at 65 mph but I bet just a little head wind or slight grade would cause it to downshift, or at least unlock the converter. I never had 3.08's but I did run 3.73's and 32's and then 4.10's and 33's in my 6.2/700r4 Blazer for years. Even with the 4.10's I kept it in "D" until able to run at least a steady 55 mph. Keep in mind that on a 3.08 geared truck when in OD that is equivalent to 2.15 axle gears.

I do really like that you went to the 700r4 as acceleration should be much approved with the 3.06 first gear as compared to the 2.48 in the TH400
 
New update

ok here is what im thinking. i currently have a set of 8 lug rock crawler wheels dont remember what model. anyways since i will be moving in 6 months and need to be able to drive the truck to wherever i go here is my plan. I wanted to switch to 3/4 tons this year but its not gonna happen(college last semester need to study hard)
SO my plan is to put 4" lift and sell my 37's i have. Then but my new 33's which i will have mounted on my stock ralleys. So i will have a new 4" lift on new 33"s with my stock 10 bolts.(should be ok for a 4 hour drive to my new place. Then later on down the road i will hopefully find some 3/4 tons and finish my axle swap which has been in the works for over a year. ugh. looking at general grabbers or bf goodrich's. Truck should be good on the highway on 33's in overdrive instead of having to ride 3rd gear on highway. Any ideas? sound good?
 
ok here is what im thinking. i currently have a set of 8 lug rock crawler wheels dont remember what model. anyways since i will be moving in 6 months and need to be able to drive the truck to wherever i go here is my plan. I wanted to switch to 3/4 tons this year but its not gonna happen(college last semester need to study hard)
SO my plan is to put 4" lift and sell my 37's i have. Then but my new 33's which i will have mounted on my stock ralleys. So i will have a new 4" lift on new 33"s with my stock 10 bolts.(should be ok for a 4 hour drive to my new place. Then later on down the road i will hopefully find some 3/4 tons and finish my axle swap which has been in the works for over a year. ugh. looking at general grabbers or bf goodrich's. Truck should be good on the highway on 33's in overdrive instead of having to ride 3rd gear on highway. Any ideas? sound good?

You will be fine on 33s.
 
You already lifted? With stock rallye wheels and 33x10.5R15 (no idea if you settled on size yet) you don't need a lift. BFG and Swamper the only ones I'm aware of that make that size.

If you need the 4" lift go for it, but IMO 4" lift with 33's doesn't *look* good, and if you'll be driving on it for awhile, might as well limit your expenses and discomfort for as long as possible.
 
Deuling and I are both on 33s with about 6 inches of lift. IMO both trucks look awesome except mine currently sags in the rear. The advantages are you do not have to cut, and you will be lifting it for good. You won't want more lift with 37s, just more cutting. You may want an inch of body lift. If you do lift it, get the tuff country springs or better.
 
If you are installing a lift you are already doing all of the work required to swap axles.

Martin
 
If you are installing a lift you are already doing all of the work required to swap axles.

Martin

This is also very true. The only difference is $ now or later. I lifted on my ten bolts last year and now I'm looking for a 14 bolt for the rear so I will be doing the work again and spending another 40$ on ubolts.
 
I went through this exact scenario last summer.. ran 33s on 10/12 373 combo and barely wheeled and sheared two rear shafts and eventually blew out the carrier.

I swapped in a 14bff / d44 4.88 setup (out of a 76 k20 got the axles plus drive shafts/springs for $250) and run the same 33s (285/75/16) and the thing is perfect for what i do, doesn't look too bad either with a 4" lift/33s. I did a rear shackle flip and made custom springs from various parts trucks. Great ride with new bilstein shocks.

mn0p.jpg
 

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