10" Lift and now the steering...

[Metal Twister]

Installed a 10" lift on Blazer frame this weekend. I used a super lift kit for a Burb so its just springs, a steering riser block and steering link to the steering box. I did change over to 38's as well. Some where I lost a lot of steering response. What used to be quick sharp steering has turned into a really loose response in the wheel. What used to be a 1/4 turn is now a 1/2 to 3/4 turn. It doesn't look like anything has changed but the height... Any ideas why it would get sooooooo sloppy? I didnt like the front being so much higher than the rear so I lost 2 leafs out of the front thinking it would even things out... It did.

 

[Hogback Fabrication]

Taking leaves out the front will reduce lift height and will kill the springs over time.

As far as the steering goes, sounds like you've figured out why we do crossover for anything with 8" of lift and more

 

[Metal Twister]

Taking leaves out the front will reduce lift height and will kill the springs over time.

As far as the steering goes, sounds like you've figured out why we do crossover for anything with 8" of lift and more

Got it... Thanks Looks like next weekends schedule was just filled.

Just out of curiosity... Is the steering lost in all the flex of the springs ?
Never mind I found this link that was a big help!
http://www.bing.com./images/search?...FC7398E3E9A25D818C666D4E3E5A9CF3B290A&first=1

 

[Hogback Fabrication]

Got it... Thanks Looks like next weekends schedule was just filled.

Just out of curiosity... Is the steering lost in all the flex of the springs ?

Once you get to bigger lifts, it doesn't really matter if the "steering correction" matches the lift. In that case, Superlift would probably send a 4" raised steering arm a steering block (2-3" IIRC) and a bent draglink (that is expensive and doesn't help geometry at all, just takes angle off of the joints and uses ends that only they can provide).

Long story short, on paper it looks like there is enough "steering correction" but there is so much extra leverage on everything that the steering is terrible, every part has some give and you end up with no steering.

 

[Metal Twister]

Once you get to bigger lifts, it doesn't really matter if the "steering correction" matches the lift. In that case, Superlift would probably send a 4" raised steering arm a steering block (2-3" IIRC) and a bent draglink (that is expensive and doesn't help geometry at all, just takes angle off of the joints and uses ends that only they can provide).

Long story short, on paper it looks like there is enough "steering correction" but there is so much extra leverage on everything that the steering is terrible, every part has some give and you end up with no steering.

Glad you said this. I was cycling the steering and watching all the flex and binding going on and it wasn't pretty. I used the new super lift suspension off of a donor rig so it has the steering block and draglink that you mentioned... Pretty cheesy but it was there so I used it. I do have the original Jeep steering box which mounts with the arm moving side to side instead of front to back. Thinking it is probably the same as a Chevy 2wd Box. Also have a flat top passenger side knuckle so I think I will be doing some machine work this weekend and then order up one of your kits. Thanks for the help!

 

[Mr. Sharky]

There is something that many don't take in to account. If the lift is excessive so that the arch of the springs is alot, the leverage from the axle walking side to side especially with worn spring eye bushings would allow for a lot of steering slop. In many cases, it is best to drop the spring pad mount to eliminate a lot of those issues. I have even seen dropped steering boxes to accommodate for bad steering angles.

 

[Metal Twister]

There is something that many don't take in to account. If the lift is excessive so that the arch of the springs is alot, the leverage from the axle walking side to side especially with worn spring eye bushings would allow for a lot of steering slop. In many cases, it is best to drop the spring pad mount to eliminate a lot of those issues. I have even seen dropped steering boxes to accommodate for bad steering angles.

Yeah, good point. Thinking in this case the high cross over steering might work out OK though. Brand new bushings are installed. Wonder if throwing the sway bar would help stiffen things up enough to make it drivable till I can convert?

 

[Mr. Sharky]

Yeah, good point. Thinking in this case the high cross over steering might work out OK though. Brand new bushings are installed. Wonder if throwing the sway bar would help stiffen things up enough to make it drivable till I can convert?

You know, I was just going to mention that because I run my front sway bar all the time when I use the Blazer for highway use. It only takes about 15 minutes for me to disconnect mine. And for some reason, that little bit of stiffness has helped quite a bit. Additionally, I run an 1-1/2 wheel spacer on my rear wheels only to correct the tracking of my wheels. It does help quite a bit also. It somehow cures that rear end twist and drag that all Blazers do. It has something to do with the difference in the widths of the axles and also the shortness of the wheelbase. I can't really explain it. But with experience, I somehow figured it out by trying different combinations of things.

 

[COCHEV]

I just want to say that that cherokee is bad ass! love the older 2 drs and the old school FSJ grills

 

[ktmoutfront]

What the COE hot rod next to it? I like the looks of that.

 

[Metal Twister]

Thanks guys... I stretched a Jimmy frame 2.5" and transferred the 74 Full Size Jeep body over to it. It works out well as far as finding parts just about anywhere now. It was a real PITA going into Autozone and trying to explain to Jr. that it wasn't a Grand Cherokee. Its different and it gets used so I like it for those reasons. Its really a Jimmy in disguise.

The COE is a 1940 Ford that I whittled down to size. 12" body channel and 3" chop. Running a 400 Trans Am engine and running gear.

 

[ktmoutfront]

I like that. Anything different is good.

 

[Zeus33rd]

There is something that many don't take in to account. If the lift is excessive so that the arch of the springs is alot, the leverage from the axle walking side to side especially with worn spring eye bushings would allow for a lot of steering slop. In many cases, it is best to drop the spring pad mount to eliminate a lot of those issues. I have even seen dropped steering boxes to accommodate for bad steering angles.

I had to do this on my V3500 with 8" Alcans. Lowered the box about 4.5" on the frame.

Draglink angle before dropping steering box-

And after-

That made a huuuge difference. Got rid of most of the bump steer. Steering is precise and accurate. I do have cross over though and all of the parts are more or less new. PSC box, Ballastic Fab springless arms with bronze bushings, HD tie rod and draglink w/end kit from ORD. XJ steering shaft. Even with all the best parts and cutting no corners in the process, with 8" of lift, my steering still has gremlins. Mostly the bump steer/death wobble kind. I have a PSC assist kit ready to install- pump, ram, fluid cooler and hoses. I'm pretty confident that it will solve the bump steer problems. I have no steering stabilizer of any kind at the moment. Been driving it like that for a year or more.

 

[Metal Twister]

Sweet! Thanks for the pics and explanation of what is going on with it. Ive been doing some homework and I think I have just about everything I need to go high / cross over steering. Just trying to decide if I need to go with a d60 up front or the d44 that I have now before investing the time and effort into that much steering change.