10b drw? and driveshaft question

[obijuan]

first the important one, on my rear driveshaft i can move it up and down and side to side maybe 1mm, very little but when i am driving i hear a clunk every rotation. i got along it and walked and its seems to be coming from right at the cv transfer case area. then i put it on jackstands to see what it was, the cv seems to spin freely and cant feel the clunk when i manually turn the driveshaft. the "clunk" is visible and i dont feel it in the rearend either. what could this possible be? is my transfercase output shaft bearing bad or somethin? i dont rememebr it having play in it when i had the shaft out of the TC. where should i look?


next are there any drw hubs for a 10b? i dotn ever see me getting a 60 within the next few years and i found a crap load of hummer beadlocks with either 36 bias or the 37 radial at work, i can probably get them for little to nothing. so which is better? 8 or 12 bolt? do i really need the runflats? are they DOT legal? and for a matching width 14ff, are spacers in order? or how do yall manage that? also are the 37's decent in the mud and what kind of highway manners do they have? thanks alot

 

[YZEATER]

you could get the wheels recentered and run your current hubs all the way around.

 

[6.2Blazer]

I've never heard of a DRW version of a 10-bolt, so you would be stuck with some sort of aftermarket spacer (I would guess you would need at least 2", if not 3"). Or as mentioned to have them recentered.

I don't believe (but not 100% sure) you actually need the runflat insert to mount a tire on the H1 wheel, but this insert is also what gives you the dual beadlock function. Besides for that military look, I really don't see any advantage to running H1's if you don't run the insert...they are heavy, require more effort to install the tire, and would cost more for the spacers or to have them recentered than if you just bought some regular old steel wheels.

To have a matching width rear 14FF axle you will need spacers. You might not need spacers to physically run them, but they will be narrower than the front.

I do believe H1's have a DOT stamp on them.

 

[obijuan]

i read somewhere on here that you can take the spacer off a 2wd 90s dually? i would probably have to get them recentered anyways, i just really like the look of em the way they come.

 

[6.2Blazer]

Most of the newer dually trucks just use a bolt-on spacer on the front axle between the DRW and SRW versions. I looked at some from a newer Dodge a while back and the issue was that the inner diameter would not fit over a D60 locking hub, not sure on a 10-bolt because I didn't check.