10b Front-End, Rebuild?

[cacahootie]

I don't mean to clutter the forums, but I want to give special attention to this issue I mentioned in my previous, general, build post.

New to me 89 blazer. 104K miles, new 31" BFG ATs on 15s, New Monroe shocks. Fresh 14bff rear.

The front, however, remains a stocker 10b. Given that my intended usage is not too rough, and the small size of my tires (it's not the size of the tire but the motion of the wheel...) I am comfortable sticking with the 10b, and am weighing the 8 lug conversion vs carrying two spares (which I am A-OK with, I will build a spot for one on each side).

The reason it's coming off is that the wheel bearings are shot (shocker, I know) and it's got the death wobbles that will shake fillings out of your teeth on hard braking.

I am planning to remove the front end and rebuild the steering gear box this weekend (seals on the gearbox are shot and the engine compartment and axle are a mess). I will probably replace as many of the parts as are cost-effective to do, both in the steering and axle. Planning on replacing the rotors and pads as well.

The question here is primarily: what parts would you plan to replace (and upgrades to make) in my shoes to ensure reliability and improved handling in the axle and with the steering? My goal here is to replace w/ upgrades every part which is a known failure point here as long as it's not too expensive. I don't really plan on converting steering systems or anything like that as my demand on the vehicle won't be too severe.

Secondly, what's a good supplier for the parts recommended above? I have heard Federal Mogul bearings recommended highly, but can't really find a master rebuilt kit for the 10b front axle (only rears).

Thirdly, convince me of a better low-cost solution. Perhaps a 12b is somehow fundamentally different as opposed to scaled up... I don't know. The fact that the 10b is a C-Clip axle makes me a bit nervous... but that's really it as far as the fear goes on the stocker.

 

[Muddytazz]

Me, I'd do the 8 lug conversion and replace any worn out steering parts. Fed Moguls ball joints are good, but I use nothing but Timken bearings personally.

 

[tRustyK5]

The death wobble will be bad ball joints. Moog is another good brand.

Front 10 bolts are pretty decent, real fail areas tend to be outer stubs and U-joints...but only with larger tires and stuff. The front 10 bolt isn't a C-clip, it's a full floater.

start by replacing the gear lube. Hit up everything inside the case with Brake Kleen and check all the ring gear and pinion teeth...just make sure it all looks good, no chipped teeth or anything like that.

The real work in at the outers. Carefully pull the locking hubs apart, lay each part out sequentially. Remove the spanner nuts (you'll need a hub socket for this) and pull of the hub/rotor assembly. Unbolt the spindle, but before you do make a scribe or punch mark so it goes back in the same orientation.

Now you can pull the shafts out. You'll want to replace the U-joints for peace of mind. At this point you can remove the cotter pins and ball joint nuts and remove the knuckles. Either buy a ball joint press, or take the knuckles in to get the ball joints pressed out, and new ones pressed in. Clean everything and re-assemble.

Wheel bearings and seals you should probably also replace, make sure to pack them really good with grease. I prefer Moly grease. Setting up bearing pre-load is pretty crucial. For new bearings you want it to be a bit on the tight side, they'll loosen up a little as they wear in. Used but good bearings you should set up less tight.

Locking hub assemblies should be thoroughly cleaned and lightly greased. Too much grease and they won't operate smoothly.

Rene

 

[Burbdood 74]

and it's got the death wobbles that will shake fillings out of your teeth on hard braking.

If the death wobble only happens on hard braking, it might just be that your rotors are warped. I had this on an 86 1/2 ton truck I had when I was 18. I lived in Reno at the time and the previous owner lived in Lake Tahoe and she rode the brakes all the way down Mount Rose Highway and she warped the rotors so much that you would practically bounce out of the seat when you hit the binders.

 

[Akjimmy907]

just go with a front 60

Isn't that the standard answer????


Kidding, do it when you can. I had a 8 lug 10 bolt under the Blazer for awhile and it was WELDED and it had 38's on it Swapped out the 10 bolt for the 60 and that axle is still just fine and rolling great....just didn't understand it.

 

[cacahootie]

Yeah...

So, a resounding chorus in my "build" thread developed around ditching the 14 in the rear, as a possible solution to my mis-matched lug situation. Kind of the opposite of my inclination... but it has merit. I like the idea of full-floaters all around, and beef. Given that I intend to traverse to the middle of nowhere, I like the idea that with most failures I can still get home somehow (with a little bit of trail-engineering).

Regarding my death wobble, I am inclined to believe that the ball joints AND my rotors are bad. I've had warped rotors a few times before, and this doesn't strongly have the feel I've associated with warp (I tend to experience the wobbles at lower speeds, where warped rotors tend to be a high-speed issue). That being said, they're original and are getting replaced regardless, once I decide on my axles.

 

[cacahootie]

Upon Further Review...

I've been looking into the issue of the 8 lug swap... and I'd like to make sure my facts are straight in my specific vehicle. With the

Talking hypothetically, swapping parts from an 87 3/4 ton 4x4 would require only the hub/rotor and backing plate? Bearings, spindles, etc... the same? It appears that studying the napa catalog, the bearings are the same for the 87 3/4 ton and the 89 10b...

 

[andyblack]

I've been looking into the issue of the 8 lug swap... and I'd like to make sure my facts are straight in my specific vehicle. With the

Talking hypothetically, swapping parts from an 87 3/4 ton 4x4 would require only the hub/rotor and backing plate? Bearings, spindles, etc... the same? It appears that studying the napa catalog, the bearings are the same for the 87 3/4 ton and the 89 10b...

I think that's the only differences. Swapping the front axle over and leaving the rear 14ff alone would definately be easier and cheaper because you'd probably have to regear if you got another rear axle so it would match the front. Now you'll just have to get two more wheels. 16" should work. 8 lug 15" wheels won't fit over the brakes for the 3/4 ton setup without grinding some metal off the caliper (although lots of guys have done that) because of the larger diameter rotor.

 

[496truck]

Something to consider, maybe you already have... Since a PO already swapped in the rear axle it would be worth taking the covers off to verify they have the same gear ratios before going further.

One more thing, may be an easy option for you. Find a good 8 lug 10b front and swap in the whole assembly after you go through and rebuild what you need to. This is especially helpful if you need to match the gears in the rear axle (ie: if they are mismatched now). This also may be a good option if your current front 10b has bad bearings that may have damaged the spindles or was not maintained over the years.

Just throwin that out there, hopefully not adding to the confusion.

 

[cacahootie]

The PO informed me that the gear ratios match on the front/rear axles... He was a knowledgeable chevy guy, so I'm hoping he had his facts straight... I've hit the 4WD and everything seemed honkey-dorey.

I'm pretty sure I'm leaning towards keeping the 14bff and shaving off the "trail plow". The drum brakes on it were shot, so I'm still planning to remove the rear, replace the gear oil and inspect/replace anything I find. It's also getting a couple coats of paint.

As far as the 8 lug swap goes, NAPA doesn't seem to carry the correct backing plates for the process; they have the rotor/hub and all my bearings and seals in stock though. Looks like junkyard time...

I'm going to end up having to take the 15" w/ grinding route. I've heard there are some backspacings that will minimize/obviate the need to grind, so naturally I'm shooting for that.

What's a good source for cheap, basic steel wheels? I've been searching the web and everything I can find is too nice for my purposes.

 

[andyblack]

Eaton has always been good for steel wheels. They specialize in 15" 8 lug wheels too. Shouldn't be more than $100 per wheel, probably a good bit less. I've heard that if you have 2.25" or maybe 2.5" backspacing you won't have to grind the caliper. I think there's a piece in the technical articles on the ck5 home page that shows you how to grind the calipers using spray paint as a guide.

 

[496truck]

I just picked up a set of US Wheel white wagon wheels from Summit. They were $42 each brand new and only $14 shipping/handling to my door. That's cheap. The only decent used steel wheels I found around here were more $.

 

[andyblack]

I just picked up a set of US Wheel white wagon wheels from Summit. They were $42 each brand new and only $14 shipping/handling to my door. That's cheap. The only decent used steel wheels I found around here were more $.

That is cheap. Are you going to paint them or keep them white? You don't see many people sporting white wagons anymore. When I first started off-roading in the mid '90s, everyone had them, including me. Now it's either black steel or something shiny (and way over 15").

 

[Burbdood 74]

White wagons are the only way to rock if your'e putting them on an older 4x4 like ours! If I didn't have a nice set of Rally's on my Sub, I'd be rockin' a set of White Wagons again. Every single 4x4 I've owned, with the exception of the current Sub, has had them.

 

[andyblack]

I've kinda gotten to where I don't like the white wheels as much anymore. Guess I'm just used to seeing black ones now, so I like them better. When I had the white wheels and the black ones were just becoming popular, though, I thought black wheels made the vehicle look like crap.

Anything's better than blingin' dubs on a 4x4, if you ask me. When some dude shows up at a mudbog or trailride with more metal on his rims than rubber on his tire, I have a hard time taking him seriously.

 

[Burbdood 74]

Anything's better than blingin' dubs on a 4x4, if you ask me. When some dude shows up at a mudbog or trailride with more metal on his rims than rubber on his tire, I have a hard time taking him seriously.

Abso-fricken-lutely! It's the guys who put $2500 worth of wheels and tires on a $2000 truck that amuse me.

 

[cacahootie]

I like the wagon wheels... I already have them in the back, I just didn't realize it!

I've never really understood the concept of putting a bunch of money worth of rims on a truck... I mean, sometimes it looks nice... but I've never had a nice looking truck so I guess it wouldn't make sense to me. I like minimal, functional and especially cheap. More money left to put where it counts (under the hood).

 

[496truck]

That is cheap. Are you going to paint them or keep them white? You don't see many people sporting white wagons anymore. When I first started off-roading in the mid '90s, everyone had them, including me. Now it's either black steel or something shiny (and way over 15").

I left them white and they look real good on there. Kind of an old school look.

 

[rgorsuch87]

I would ditch the 10b. I agree with tRustyK5. The outer U-joints are weak. I trashed mine a couple weeks ago, but then again I'm running 35's.