10B outer lock nut TQ specs? UPDATE 12/28 now spindle bearing

[PhilS10HO]

I'm going to look for a manual at the local Napa, but incase they don't have one I'm asking. I searched and found agreement on 50 ft/lbs on the inner nut. Then back off and retighten 35ft/lbs. The outer nut seems to have some disagrement. I saw the same procedure as the inner nut. Just 50ft/lbs without backing it off. Last I saw was high 190's and 205ft/lbs without backing off. So which is it. 87 GMC 1/2 ton pick up 10B. Thanks all.

Phil

 

[roadnotca]

Unless someone else gets to it first, I'll quote from the factory manual. Give me a couple hours. 5:33 PST.

 

[roadnotca]

Torgue the adjusting nut to 50 ft. lbs. while rotating the hub. Back off and retighten to 35 ft. lbs.
Back off adjust nut 3/8 max. turn.
Install the (drag sleeve) washer. Tang on the inside of the washer into the slot in the spindle, and any hole in the washer slips over the pin in the adjuster. Adjust if needed in the clockwise direction (slightly).
Install the lock nut and torque to 160 ft. lbs. End play should be .001-.010.
End play is their numbers but they don't say where to measure.
I've found its easiest to do this with the tire/wheel bolted on so I can feel for the brg play, thats with the brake pads backed-off. I adjust the brgs so there is just play, so that may mean a few trys to get it right. To be sure, I start from no play and loosen in the smallest steps possible with the pin/hole range, or if its loose I do the reverse, tighten until there's just a click or it just took-up click and then back off "one".

 

[PhilS10HO]

Thanks. Good info

Phil

 

[HarryH3]

Final torque was around 50 ft. lbs. before they came out with the auto locking hubs. Part of the mechanism for the auto lockers is indexed to special tabs on the washer between the two lock nuts. The 160 ft. lbs. is the number they came up with to prevent the new hubs from causing the outer nut to loosen.

 

[PhilS10HO]

Final torque was around 50 ft. lbs. before they came out with the auto locking hubs. Part of the mechanism for the auto lockers is indexed to special tabs on the washer between the two lock nuts. The 160 ft. lbs. is the number they came up with to prevent the new hubs from causing the outer nut to loosen.

I have manual locking warn hubs. So your saying the manuals are 50 and the auto are 160?

 

[roadnotca]

Final torque was around 50 ft. lbs. before they came out with the auto locking hubs. Part of the mechanism for the auto lockers is indexed to special tabs on the washer between the two lock nuts. The 160 ft. lbs. is the number they came up with to prevent the new hubs from causing the outer nut to loosen.

Aw now Harry, Phil is asking a valid question. Will 50 ft. lbs. keep the lock ring from backing out?

 

[HarryH3]

Aw now Harry, Phil is asking a valid question. Will 50 ft. lbs. keep the lock ring from backing out?

Yep, it worked fine on Dana 44's and 10-bolts for many years. I never saw the 160 lb number listed in the factory manuals until the auto locking hubs came out. Take apart an auto locking setup sometime and you'll see why they had ro torque the outer nut so much tighter. 50 is fine with manual hubs, but going higher won't hurt anything.

 

[roadnotca]

Yep, it worked fine on Dana 44's and 10-bolts for many years. I never saw the 160 lb number listed in the factory manuals until the auto locking hubs came out. Take apart an auto locking setup sometime and you'll see why they had ro torque the outer nut so much tighter. 50 is fine with manual hubs, but going higher won't hurt anything.

Except some of my bones when the socket slips off.
Thanks for the insight Harry, I'll experiment with something in between 50-160.

 

[HarryH3]

Except some of my bones when the socket slips off.

Quit using those cheap parts-store sockets! I used to have one that slipped all the time, then a buddy sold me a used one made by Snap-On. It doesn't slip. It's actually made so that it fully engages the slots on the lock nut.

 

[roadnotca]

Quit using those cheap parts-store sockets! I used to have one that slipped all the time, then a buddy sold me a used one made by Snap-On. It doesn't slip. It's actually made so that it fully engages the slots on the lock nut.

Yeah, mine's a PepBoys gem. It is precision engineered to disengage at 159 ft. lbs. I won't be cranking it beyond 100 ft. lbs. anymore.

 

[PhilS10HO]

Did my wheel bearings today. The bigger of the two was bad. Everything else was alright. Replaced everything anyway cause I had already bought it. I did this cause I have play when I grab the hub, and and pull up. Changing the wheel bearings didn't help at all. So I guess my next thing is the spindle bearing. With the hubs out should I be able to move the axle shaft all around? Cause I can. I did a search on changing the spindle bearing it doesn't sound like a big deal. Any words of advice anyway.
Phil