What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

10b pinion flange

big dan

big dan

1/2 ton status
Joined
Aug 1, 2005
Posts
2,745
Reaction score
138
Location
Arkansas
For the time Im stuck running a 10 bolt front end but I need a front driveshaft in my truggy so I would like to go ahead and build what I want now and I need a flat flange to mount on the pinion instead of a yoke but cant find one.

Found ones that fit dana 44s, 60s and 14 bolts but no 10s and had makes custom flanges and so does another company that I talked to but it is going to cost twice as much for the custom flange as one that they regularly produce. and since I plan on upgrading to a 60 in the future I dont want to pour too much into the 10 bolt

does anybody know of a company the makes a flange for a 10 bolt?
 
Currently Im using a square tube front shaft with 1310 yokes and I just clocked my t-case up and it puts the joints at a pretty steep angle and Im worried about them breaking easily so Im looking to upgrade

what I plan on doing is using dana60 axle yokes with a flange on the t-case and axle. If I can find someone willing to toss out some old broken shafts with good yokes and find the flange for the axle I can build a fairly strong front shaft that can handle steep angles for cheap

otherwise Im looking at buying some yokes and using 1410 joints but my next problem is that I cant find 1410 yokes for a 10 bolt either and unless I happen upon a screaming deal Im stuck with the 10 bolt for at least another year.

kind of a long reply to a short question. but the short answer is that I need a strong high angle driveshaft and cant afford to have one built:doah:
 
If I were you I think I would make a driveshaft loop and carry spare joints (and maybe even a pinion yoke). As long as the joint doesn't bottom out, the 1310 joints aren't super weak.

I don't believe there is a 10 bolt flange so you may have to deal with what you have.
 
I was mostly worried about it bottoming out because it is pretty close at ride height. I plan on lowering it down about an inch and moving axle foward a little so I may be ok on the angle, just looking for other options in case it doesnt work out.
 
How much lift and what trans/t-case combo? How much are you moving the front axle forward?

Have you considered turning the c's?
 
I have a flange on my front 10 bolt (Jesse @ HAD made it) and it has multiple bolt patterns drilled into it. I'm using it with a toyota joint at one end and 42*cv at the other. I honestly don't recall what the flange alone cost, but it may have been around $200.
 
Ive got 52s in front with an overload and zero rate. I mounted the hangers so that the axle was in the stock position but Im considering moving the hangers foward 2" and taking out the overload and possibly the zero rate.

For tranny and t-case Ive got a th350/208. Didnt use the cv joint on the front shaft though. I have a regular yoke on the t-case output and single 1310 joints on both ends.

I've thought about turning the c's but I plan on moving up to a 60 front within the next year. hate to do all the work and then swap it out.
 
big dan said:
Ive got 52s in front with an overload and zero rate. I mounted the hangers so that the axle was in the stock position but Im considering moving the hangers foward 2" and taking out the overload and possibly the zero rate.

For tranny and t-case Ive got a th350/208. Didnt use the cv joint on the front shaft though. I have a regular yoke on the t-case output and single 1310 joints on both ends.

I've thought about turning the c's but I plan on moving up to a 60 front within the next year. hate to do all the work and then swap it out.
Click to expand...

Don't take out the overload.
 
big dan said:
Why not? Ive read various pros and cons to taking it out, just curious what you've got to say if you dont mind explaining.
Click to expand...

The only reason I would think of removing it would be so it doesn't catch anything on the trail, but other than that is doesn't hinder the droop, and you don't want to flex your springs beyond the overload because it will permanently bend your springs.
 
I was only planing on removing it to get the truck lower. Otherwise I prefer to have the overload so I may end up removing the zero rate only.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom