CK5
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1157 Bulbs

with home lighting the "color" really matters to me...incandescent light actually approximate candle light...I hate florescent light...and LED is harsh and undimable in some applications....incandescent is soothing compared to the others.

The one I got is color temp rated at 3K, which is warmer than a lot of florescents. I saw some of the same type that were 2500.
Not sure it that would be a noticeable difference.

I also saw some called "stark white" rated at 5K.
Would not like that in my bedroom, but it might be great for a work light. I like bright light when I am working on parts the size of a gnat's left testicle.

Other than using them for heat, I really think that when the prices get lower and we get a wider selection, LEDs will be a great replacement for incandescent.
 
BTW, Chief, I got curious, and started looking for the actual color specs for a GE Soft White light bulb in 100 watts.
Turns out its about 2850K.
So, the 3K LED I'm using is at least close. And the 2500K one would be even warmer. In looking, I ran across this ad for a case of 100W soft whites at a fairly decent price still available.

http://www.amazon.com/Watt-White-Incandescent-Light-Bulbs/dp/B0055T5VW8
 
If they are that cheap, why would you NOT buy them?! I figured you were gunna pay NOS prices.

I was really expecting somebody to say "hey, don't by bulbs that old...they blow the second you put power to them"...or something like that...I ordered 4 of the 1157....I wish he had 1156 too
 
#2057's have the filaments wired up opposite of the 1157's,so if you swap one for the other you'll still have lights--but being "reversed" the wrong filament will light up instead of the correct one....................................................................................................Most forigen cars use two 1156 bulbs instead of one dual filament one for tail and brake lamps,and they require a converter to work with trailer lights if you tow,being wired differently............................................................................................At one parts store I worked at that has been in bussiness since the 30's under various owners and names,still has a cellar and attic with lots of old parts still new,in dusty old original boxes..when I worked there I came across a whole rack full of old 6V bulbs,some were for headlamps and used before sealed beams came about--my boss sold a box of AC-Delco ones for 100 bucks for the box,ten bucks a bulb,to a antique car owner who often sold parts at swap meets..boss thought he made a killing,but the guy confided in me he could get 20-25 bucks each for them from guys wanting to win originality contests at high end car shows...even AC sealed beams with the period correct lens code can sell for 100 bucks each to the person who needs them or wants his car 100% "original"......
 
I was really expecting somebody to say "hey, don't by bulbs that old...they blow the second you put power to them"...or something like that...I ordered 4 of the 1157....I wish he had 1156 too

I expect that the old ones are better. Vibration/heat is probably the killer of the bulbs since the filament is all that breaks, so if the bulbs have been unused, there should be no reason they don't last as long, if not longer than newer ones.

Same as everything else nowadays (refrigerators, washer/dryers, etc) the manufacturers have been able to much more precisely figure how beefy components need to be to last X amount of time...and knowing that, they can make them just strong enough to last for a given amount of time, instead of lasting forever like things used to. That helps them on the front side (they can spend less money on manufacturing them) and back side (you have to purchase them more often).
 
Report back on the marker bubls, that would be an interesting development. Those fittings tend to get damaged from the heat from the bulbs, LED's would eliminate that issue.

I might do a separate thread so as to avoid hijacking this one, especially if I can get better pictures. My poor old camera takes crappy pix in the dark :doah:

However, the non-polarized LED bulbs work in the front markers nicely, both with the lights on and without. To wit:

https://www.superbrightleds.com/mor...194-led-bulb-5-led-wide-angle-wedge-base/199/

Note that I got the "amber" ones for the markers, as filtering the white ones would have poor results (the web page has an explanation of this.)

They're not as hyper-bright as the polarized ones I tried, which is a shame, but they're at least as bright as whatever bulb I had in there before, if not brighter, and have all the advantages of LED's (low power, faster on/off, etc.) I may go back to the brighter ones and wire a bridge rectifier in there ($2 at Radio Shack, easy enough to do) ... or I may not =))

-- A
 
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