12 bolt and D44 on 35s?

[pauly383]

I am keeping my 12 bolt and getting only 4.10's for it ( thick ) . /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif I probably wont need to get an expensive set of shafts anyway, just some replacement ones ( like I already carry )/forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif

 

[84_Chevy_K10]

For the cost of a gear change you could have a 14 bolt, AND a locker, not to mention sell off your rear lockright to make back the difference.

Doesn't make much sense at all at that point.

Typically I'm always the one to say, "go more extreme, scrifice those street manners" way too much, but in this instance I think you've got everything to lose and nothing to gain.

In my opinion there is no reason to spend a dime on a 1/2 ton rear axle. Front, sure. Rear, screw that, ditch it.

 

[pauly383]

Very good points, but I am bound and determined to run my 12 bolt and 700r4 regardless for as long as I can. I can appreciate all the input from ck5 members otherwise. I guess I have to be different ......... like everyone /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

 

[CyberSniper]

A 14FF is the way to go if:
you're running 35" or bigger heavy tires (bias ply)
you're planning on running 35" or bigger heavy tires (bias ply)
200lbs of added weight (unsprung) doesn't bother you
you're going to do rear disc before you even put it in the truck
you're going to shave the piss out of it so it doesn't look like you've been dragging a shovel while wheeling

1/2 ton rear (10 bolt or 12 bolt) is the way to go if:
you don't plan on running tires bigger than 35" radials
you enjoy the light weight of your vehicle
you like being able to pole vault with your half ton rear because it's so light
you like the cheapness of half ton parts because everyone believes Tim and they give away half ton stuff
you're going to do rear disc to keep your tire from passing you on the highway when a c-clip breaks
you want to keep your 6 lug wheels because you have a plethora of them

 

[Grim-Reaper]

[ QUOTE ]
For the cost of a gear change you could have a 14 bolt, AND a locker, not to mention sell off your rear lockright to make back the difference.

Doesn't make much sense at all at that point.

Typically I'm always the one to say, "go more extreme, scrifice those street manners" way too much, but in this instance I think you've got everything to lose and nothing to gain.

In my opinion there is no reason to spend a dime on a 1/2 ton rear axle. Front, sure. Rear, screw that, ditch it.

[/ QUOTE ]

Yeah you can get the axle cheap but there is a LOT more to going to a 14 then just the 14. There is new rims, Have to at the very least do a 8 lug conversion to the front axle, Then if ouy don't want to grind calipers there is new tires. Probably new tires any way to get your ground clearence back.

don't mis lead people by Say going to a 14 only cost the price of the axle because it doesn't.

New rims for used is a easy $100. Unless you just plain luck up expect to pay $500 to convert the front to 8 lug or get a 8 lug 1/2 ton axle. So there is $600 right there and guess what...that's enoough to buy the gears to regear a set of half ton axles. Where you loose is if you can't set up the gears yourself. Then the cost of the locker. Detroits in 14's is pretty common. So yes advantage 14 but all this still depends on your wanting to run over 35's and guess what...a lot of us don't.

I did my best to keep my truck low and still lost. My goal was to fit my truck in my garage so I didn't have to worry about putting up the soft top all the time. even worming 35's under it with only 4 inches of lift while still ramping 832 on a 30degree ramp I am 2 inches too tall to make a 7ft opening. /forums/images/graemlins/doah.gif

 

[85m1009]

12 bolt and Dana 44 with 37's. Still on the road after many hardcore trails including several in Moab. They will hold up with common sense for many years. These axles spent three years under my Suburban with 36's before they made it into the Blazer. You have to justify the strength of the 14 bolt with the ground clearance lost to the 12 bolt as well. Not the popular answer but I go with what works. /forums/images/graemlins/peace.gif

 

[bigjbear]

You have now heard both arguments. From this point on, these type of posts can turn into a bitchfest. It is up to YOU to make the finial decision. I've had a lot of fun w/ my 1/2 ton stuff and at one time I wanted to do a very light weight K5, but at the same time I'm planning to build something bigger.

 

[84_Chevy_K10]

Pretty much everyone makes good points.

All I can say is that my next rig is going to be a 3/4 ton (10 bolt/14 FF combo) with 35" Radials. 1 ton stuff, locked, with 38-40" tires is fun, but having radial tires and a slightly lesser equipped rig is almost as much fun and has way more street manners.

I know that myself, like others, have allowed their rig to grow right onto a trailer. In a way it's fun on the trail, but I sure do miss getting to drive it all the time like before. I'm sure a number of others in the 1 ton/trailer club would love to be able to drive their rig as well.

I guess I resisted the trailer thing as long as possible, but 3 hour+ trips down the highway on 38.5" Swampers will take their toll on anyone. When it was on 35s I would drive it anywhere and not even think about it.

Oh well, live and learn, and build another rig. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif

 

[therobzilla]

To John Gross: Original Poster,

I normally stay out of these posts, due to the fact as stated by Jim, they always tend to become a bitch fest, of 1/2 ton vs. 1 ton.

Hell I love these type of posts, the never going away 1/2 ton vs. 1 ton post.

Well here is my take on it, so for all that have posted to all that are reading, I appologize, but I could not stay out of it any longer.

1st. Like Eric/GrimReaper said, don't fall into the whole 1 ton thing.. It's not a reality statement by any means.

You do not have to have a 1 ton set of axles to wheel period, no question asked, and you don't have to have a set of 1 ton axles to wheel hard, period, no questions asked.

As Eric stated, I am one of the 2 guys that he talked about. I have wheeled the absolute $hit out of my rig, and like Eric stated, at least 2 to 4 weekends a month depending on the weather. If you check out my webshots, you will see the proof. I have never fallen into the whole 1 ton rip, it's total bull$hit. I have wheeled some pretty hardcore trails in many diffrent states, and yes have broken some axles, but most of the time, I knew I was going to break when it broke. I have always pushed my rig to the absolute limits. I would never and I repeat never swap to 1 ton stuff unless I got just a smoking deal on it, and I mean smoking. I would never run a 14 bolt, I consider it a Boat Anchor!!! at least in the rocks it is. I run 35" MTR's and am locked both front and rear, I run a Detroit Full C clip locker in the rear, and a Detroit EZ Locker in the front. I have broken 2 rear 12 bolt axles and they happened withing 2 trail rides from each other. I have broken my share of front axles, mostly front short side inners, but have broken a few long sides, never and rarly a stub. Now remember, I have wheeled 2 1/2 years in AZ before I really started breaking front D44 axles. I also run a Doubler with 4:10 gears, I also run a TPI motor with a custom 500 RPM stall converter. All the power is in the low end in my rig. An 99% of the time I always take the hard line.

I have had a blast with my rig, I have wheeled the $hit out of my rig, I have torn the $hit out of my rig, and I have done it all on 1/2 ton axles. Don't fall into the 1 ton trap. You do have to be smart when you wheel on 1/2 ton gear, and have to understand how to drive your personal rig, and you have to know what your weak points are, but it can be done.

Now as my disclaimer: It's all about the "Seat Time", the more you wheel the more you know what your rig can do. I have learned that "Seat Time" is where it's at. You have to get out and wheel, and you will then understand what your rig will do. Some people just can't stay off the skinny pedal, some can. I have learned exaclty when I am beyond the limits of my truck, but I have lots of "Seat Time". Just don't spend a lot of $$$$ on building your rig without wheeling and understanding what you can do.

I hate to say it, but there are way too many on this site that have real tendancy towards "You aint $hit unless your 1 ton", just don't fall for it.

I didn't and won't, and will defend it to the extreme. The other thing you need to remember, is make sure that whoever is giving you advise, Is a wheeler and or wheels on a regular basis.

This response is only a response to the original poster, I am not going to get into a $hit fest with anyone about his subject, and it's not meant to offend and other poster on this post. And BTW, I do not use the little Graemlins in my posts, so don't take offense by lack of them.

Take this as you will.

Good Luck!!