What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

12-bolt Locker

justhorsinaround said:
14 bolts aren't the be all end all.
Click to expand...

Are you serious :confused: The only real negative to the 14 bolt is the clearance and with a grinder you can solve that problem in 1/2 an hour. These things are bullet-proof and are a dime-a-dozen. If you're really wheelin', do your self a favor and pick one up at the local PnP and forget all the headaches of a 12 bolt.

I would bet that all of you running locked 12 bolts with chromo shafts etc..... have spend more money on that 1/2 ton crap than a detroited, disked, 14 bolt would have cost.

Running 1/2 ton stuff is good for a few instances but pouring good money into a 1/2 ton rear axle is like polishing a turd.
 
Last edited:
I spent just as much on my done up 12 bolt as I did on the 14 bolt I used to have or the 70 I have now.
 
14 bolt

It isn't the 14 bolt that I can't afford, it is also the swapping to eight lug rims and if I go 16's..... then I need four to five new tires. Then I have to match the front axle to be an eight lug like the back (or carry around two spare tires) which is prolly the dana60 which isn't cheap and isn't a dime a dozen. So in my opionion the 14 bolt upgrade is nowhere near being a cheap upgrade. In the long run, beefing up the 12 bolt is cheaper and definately strong enough for most wheeling applications (depending on tire size), but will never match the strength of a 14 bolt. Oh, and there is another downer about the 14 bolt. It is HEAVY!

I run a lockright in my 12 bolt with 35" tires and like it a lot. It is my daily driver and I take it to the trails at least twice a month and the only thing I broke so far is a front shackle (OEM). "Tread lightly" is a saying that everyone preaches, but few practice. You won't break parts all the time if you have a light foot and don't tackle obstacles that the vehicle can't handle (This is really hard to do when all your buddies are eggin' you on.)

I say go for the Lockright. :wink1:
 
If you are keeping it for the long haul, I say Detroit. If it is short term or money is limited Lock Right.

Check with Summit Racing, because they are selling Detroits now. The 12bolt locker isn't in the catalog I just got, but I'll bet if you call they'll give you a price.

If you go with a 14bFF, you either have to go to 8 lug rims or find a 6 bolt adapter. And with the adapter you have to open up the center hole on the rim or turn down the end caps on the axle. If you go 8 lug rims then you need to find new outers for the front axle.

I paid $550 for my 12 bolt detroit and that's the cheapest price I've seen for a 14bFF w/detroit. The cost of new 8 lug rims same as the Superior shafts. And then there's still the cost of the 8 lug outers for the front. Plus aren't the 14bFF w/detroits mostly out of CUCVs which means 4.56 gears and therefore you'd need to regear the front.

You can make the strength arguement for the 14bFF, but don't try to make the cost seem less for a 14bFF.
 
mrk5 said:
If you are keeping it for the long haul, I say Detroit. If it is short term or money is limited Lock Right.

Check with Summit Racing, because they are selling Detroits now. The 12bolt locker isn't in the catalog I just got, but I'll bet if you call they'll give you a price.

If you go with a 14bFF, you either have to go to 8 lug rims or find a 6 bolt adapter. And with the adapter you have to open up the center hole on the rim or turn down the end caps on the axle. If you go 8 lug rims then you need to find new outers for the front axle.

I paid $550 for my 12 bolt detroit and that's the cheapest price I've seen for a 14bFF w/detroit. The cost of new 8 lug rims same as the Superior shafts. And then there's still the cost of the 8 lug outers for the front. Plus aren't the 14bFF w/detroits mostly out of CUCVs which means 4.56 gears and therefore you'd need to regear the front.

You can make the strength arguement for the 14bFF, but don't try to make the cost seem less for a 14bFF.
Click to expand...

Nicely put, the axle itself may be "cheap" but the conversion is not. Taking my 1/2 ton :D axles locked up with 39.5"s to the 'con in a week, let ya know how it goes.
 
this may be a dumb question...would the 4.10s out of my buddies rear 10 bolt fit right into my front 10 bolt?
 
Dain, 4.10's will work as long as your truck wasn't geared 2.73 stock. If it had 3.08 or numerically higher gears, it will work.
 
89GMCSuburban said:
Carrier breaks at 3.08 in 10 bolts
Click to expand...

Just doubled checked , the cases are 2.56 and down , and 2.73 and up . So 2.73 and up is all one carrier . The only difference is 89 and later is 30 spline .

I have never heard of 2.56 or higher ( numerically lower ) in a truck .

ARB , Detroit , factory cases , doesn't matter , 2.73 up is one unit 28 spline , one unit 30 spline .
 
78 k5 said:
Are you serious :confused: The only real negative to the 14 bolt is the clearance and with a grinder you can solve that problem in 1/2 an hour. These things are bullet-proof and are a dime-a-dozen. If you're really wheelin', do your self a favor and pick one up at the local PnP and forget all the headaches of a 12 bolt.

I would bet that all of you running locked 12 bolts with chromo shafts etc..... have spend more money on that 1/2 ton crap than a detroited, disked, 14 bolt would have cost.

Running 1/2 ton stuff is good for a few instances but pouring good money into a 1/2 ton rear axle is like polishing a turd.
Click to expand...

A shaved 14FF on 36s has the same clearance as a shaved 10 bolt/12 bolt on 33s. A 14FF isn't worth it unless you're running 40s or bigger. You're talking an extra 150lbs between a disced 10 bolt and a disced 14 bolt. The "cheap" part of a 14FF is eaten up by the fact that you need to find 8 lug outers for your front axle.

The weak link on a 12 bolt are the small pinion bearings.

Whether a 12 bolt will hold up or not is subject to its conditions. Tire size, vehicle weight, power in said vehicle, and traction/terrain play important parts in 12 bolt life. I'm trying to run a 12 bolt with 40" TSLs in an underpowered relatively light vehicle that sees mostly trails and mud. If it holds up, I'll regear it. If it doesn't, I'll find some 1 ton axles and buy bigger tires.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom