12 bolt rear and dana 44 front 77 k5 blazer lockers???

[chevyfan77]

I'm looking at lockers and of course like most people have a budget build. I read through some of the threads on lockers, but have more questions. I do drive my truck on the road and off road. I was looking at the drop in lockers from lock right, but wasn't sure if saving on money was worth it and it would drive okay on the street or not. as of now, I'm interested mainly in the rear end getting one. Of course this is a GM 12 bolt. Eventually will do the front end as well. I won't lie, axles scare me a bit to work on and I'm not sure what all I'd be doing for install or what. I'm willing to learn and make mistakes so I can grow though. Let me know your thoughts. Thanks

 

[500$k5]

Drop in lockers, like lock right, will work, for awhile. I installed one in my 12b in my 78 Blazer. I ran, 31's, and 33's tires. After 5 years, the rear locker was undrivable. Banging, popping, unpredictable rear steer, etc. I have since replaced it with a full Detroit locker. Much better! Less rear steer, popping etc. If you can afford it, avoid the drop in locker. If you can't, drop one in, and start saving for the full locker, or a selectable locker. Arb, or Ox. In the front, I am running a drop in locker. It works well, as lockers go. However, if you don't have a tcase, that is 2wd, low range capable, dont run a full locker. Run a selectable locker. Again, like ARB, or Ox . This will give you the ability, to turn off the front locker, allowing better maneuverability, while in 4wd . I will be changing over to an OX locker soon. I am running a 208 tcase, with no provision for 2wd low range. Hope this helps.

 

[chevyfan77]

Drop in lockers, like lock right, will work, for awhile. I installed one in my 12b in my 78 Blazer. I ran, 31's, and 33's tires. After 5 years, the rear locker was undrivable. Banging, popping, unpredictable rear steer, etc. I have since replaced it with a full Detroit locker. Much better! Less rear steer, popping etc. If you can afford it, avoid the drop in locker. If you can't, drop one in, and start saving for the full locker, or a selectable locker. Arb, or Ox. In the front, I am running a drop in locker. It works well, as lockers go. However, if you don't have a tcase, that is 2wd, low range capable, dont run a full locker. Run a selectable locker. Again, like ARB, or Ox . This will give you the ability, to turn off the front locker, allowing better maneuverability, while in 4wdView attachment 360248 . I will be changing over to an OX locker soon. I am running a 208 tcase, with no provision for 2wd low range. Hope this helps.

Thank you so much. I appreciate the info. With what you said, I think my best bet is to save up and do it right the first time. Awesome blazer by the way.

 

[obijuank5]

Any reason why you wouldn't just toss one in the front. The massive gain in capability may be good enough for you to not sacrifice streetability with putting one in the 12 bolt.

 

[chevyfan77]

Any reason why you wouldn't just toss one in the front. The massive gain in capability may be good enough for you to not sacrifice streetability with putting one in the 12 bolt.

That would work. I figured if you were going to get one locker first, the rear would be top choice just because of the rear wheel digs and pushing the vehicle over obstacles.

 

[ZooMad75]

That would work. I figured if you were going to get one locker first, the rear would be top choice just because of the rear wheel digs and pushing the vehicle over obstacles.

From another point of view when climbing the front can pull you over. I found that to be the case with the tru-trac in the front of mine.

Take this for what it is though, upgrade the axle shafts up front if you lock it or put a tight limited slip in it. If you actually wheel it you will have a higher potential to break a 44 axle shaft.

 

[500$k5]

Front vs Rear drop in locker. It is only a "drop in" locker in the rear. If you attempt to put one in the front, bear in mind, that the carrier must be pulled, and the ring gear separated from the carrier, to install the locker. The cross pin/ spider gear shaft won't come out without removing the ring gear from the carrier. Putting a "drop in" locker in the front, is almost as much labor, as installing a full locker. Full tear down of the front diff. Drop in locker in the rear, requires removing the cover, spider gear shaft, spider gears, c-clips, axles, axle gears,and then installing the locker, into the carrier. No carrier removal, and no ring gear removal.

 

[Blue85]

Is that true for all ratios or just lower gears where the pinion is getting smaller? You have to pull the brakes, hubs, spindles, etc to back the axleshafts out regardless of what kind of locker you're installing. Even if you have to pull the carrier at that point, all you have to do is re-assemble everything the way it came out. Not really as much work as a new gear setup.

 

[500$k5]

Is that true for all ratios or just lower gears where the pinion is getting smaller? You have to pull the brakes, hubs, spindles, etc to back the axleshafts out regardless of what kind of locker you're installing. Even if you have to pull the carrier at that point, all you have to do is re-assemble everything the way it came out. Not really as much work as a new gear setup.

Mine has factory 3.73 gears, and the ring gear had to be removed from the carrier. Almost as much labor. I did it, but I would never again spend as much time to put in a cheap locker in the front compared to the extra to put in a selectable locker, like an ARB, or OX. Just my humble opinion.

 

[Blue85]

Mine has factory 3.73 gears, and the ring gear had to be removed from the carrier. Almost as much labor. I did it, but I would never again spend as much time to put in a cheap locker in the front compared to the extra to put in a selectable locker, like an ARB, or OX. Just my humble opinion.

Interesting. Not many valid installs in trucks with gears higher than 3.73. Front and rear 10-bolts are the same. Does removing the cross-pin in a rear Dana44 also require removing the ring gear? I've never seen this issue on GM axles.

 

[ZooMad75]

Interesting. Not many valid installs in trucks with gears higher than 3.73. Front and rear 10-bolts are the same. Does removing the cross-pin in a rear Dana44 also require removing the ring gear? I've never seen this issue on GM axles.

It's been 10+ years but when I tossed a free Detroit EZ-locker in the 44 of my '75 we had to pull the carrier out of the housing to install it. I remember because we had to fight to get the carrier in and out without a case spreader.

The first time I drove it in the snow it was super evident why the locker was free. Sucker banged like there was elves beating on the housing as the dog teeth slipped past each other. No drive to the axle shafts. So we had to do it all over again to take it out and put the spider gears back in.

The 44 in my '91 is running a Detroit Tru-trac. Not technically a locker, but one of the tightest limited-slip units you can get. It uses helical-cut gears to bias torque instead of typical clutch packs like a posi diff would have. Very effective upfront and does not bind up the steering in 4wd like a full-blown locker. It's tight enough you'll still push the limit of stock axle shafts with it. Still, I'm really happy with it as it's done a hell of a job pulling my stuff up and over obstacles.

 

[imiceman44]

Mine has factory 3.73 gears, and the ring gear had to be removed from the carrier. Almost as much labor. I did it, but I would never again spend as much time to put in a cheap locker in the front compared to the extra to put in a selectable locker, like an ARB, or OX. Just my humble opinion.

I guess I was lucky, I put a lock right in my front d44 without pulling the carrier, I did have a 3.08 though, thanks to my big turbo diesel engine t was more than enough with 35" tires.
Ran for 5 years no problem.
I actually also had one in the rear 12 bolt as well.
The frame gave up before the locker did.

 

[500$k5]

Definitely need to be nice to the front axles, when running a locker. I'm running the original 1978 ring and pinions, and original axle shafts. I swore I would never run anything bigger than 33's on the 1/2 ton axles, and am sticking to that. That being said, I run every trail in Moab, that won't destroy the body, and knock on wood, it has worked out. Of course, I try to follow my avatar saying, which is "Wallet under gas pedal". Let the wallet full of receipts keep you gas pedal from hitting the floor. LOL

 

[imiceman44]

Definitely need to be nice to the front axles, when running a locker. I'm running the original 1978 ring and pinions, and original axle shafts. I swore I would never run anything bigger than 33's on the 1/2 ton axles, and am sticking to that. That being said, I run every trail in Moab, that won't destroy the body, and knock on wood, it has worked out. Of course, I try to follow my avatar saying, which is "Wallet under gas pedal". Let the wallet full of receipts keep you gas pedal from hitting the floor. LOL

Just to be clear, I had stock axle shafts and never had a problem.
I also never used my gas pedal off road, 410 ft lbs of torque diesel, I idled over obstacles.

 

[nmxhustla]

I installed a grizzly locker from Yukon its pretty great and I daily my truck so i wanted something logical for everyday driving