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12 bolt rear upgrade

ssettler

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Victor, ID
i have an 88 k10 blazer silverado, 350, that has a 10 bolt diff. with some chiped teeth.


i just found an 83 k5 blazer silverado, diesel, duel exhaust with a 12 bolt rear in a junk yard.

i was wondering if i can swap the rear axle and exhaust from the junk truck to my truck without having to change the gear ratios in the front.

Im not sure if they put different ratios in these axles, and do the brakes swap back and forth?and is deisel exhaust different?
 
the brakes swap back and fourth and i know they do come with the same and different gears so it will be a hit or miss i did the 12 bolt swap when i blew the gov lock in the 10 bolt as for the exaust i dont know
 
kind of a stretch, calling it an "upgrade" though.

yes there are a few differences between the two, but strengthwise, they are about the same.

it'll swap in, not sure about your u-joint, someone will inform about that though.
 
A 14bsf out of 88 up light duty 3/4 would more of a up grade than a 10 bolt.
 
A 14bsf out of 88 up light duty 3/4 would more of a up grade than a 10 bolt.

or a 14bff, u can find those cheap if u look in the right spot, then u have a "bomb proof" rear end...and i say "bomb proof" for all the normal guys on here:wink1::D
 
All sorts of gear ratios, you'd need to pull the cover and check what the ratio is stamped on the ring gear for both to make sure they are the same, which isn't likely.
 
find the 14semi float / 6 lug out of a newer chevy, losts of work to put in thought, different spring pads and brake cables, it would have the bigger u-joint like you 10 bolt, not the little one with the 12 bolt.
lug studs are different size also, but this is a good time to up grade to disc brakes,
check gear ratios,
 
I still have a soft spot for easily scored spare thrown away axles , at least until the next tire size :laugh:


i think that soft spot is on your head and will get softer from hitting your head due to a continued changing of parts from that tiny little stuff :D
 
find the 14semi float / 6 lug out of a newer chevy, losts of work to put in thought, different spring pads and brake cables, it would have the bigger u-joint like you 10 bolt, not the little one with the 12 bolt.
lug studs are different size also, but this is a good time to up grade to disc brakes,
check gear ratios,

E-brake cables are the same. The 6-lugs only came in NBS trucks, so the spring perches and shock mounts have to be relocated to fit our OBS rigs. It's not hard as long as you have a cut-off tool and a welder. Once that is done, add the proper conversion u-joint and bolt it in. You get a triple-tough axle without having to change rims and front outers, and I can assure you that you won't break it. They are far stronger than the 14bff worshippers think :wink1:
 
i try, he just likes to be different, that's all :D

One longside front , and housing weld isn't that bad for the trails I have taken these axles on with full sheetmetal and a spare for everything .......... not counting the original gov loc axle , those ALL broke until the newer Eaton made AAM units :deal:

You broke your 10 bolt just going up this hill with I walked up :wink1:


http://members.cox.net/pauly383/The Blazer.mpg
 
You broke your 10 bolt just going up this hill with I walked up :wink1:

yup, sure did, and i learned after the FIRST break, and "upgraded" :wink1::p:

not trying to sound like the normal CK5 crowd here, but it works, plus with the big fatass of a Burb, it needed something alittle more heavy duty anyways.
 
You broke a 10b going up that??? What was it, a gov-bomb?

no lockers, long wheelbase, no lift, i hade to "rough it up" to get the boast to climb anything when i first got it, basically i broke the axle housing, where the tube slipe in the diff and is plug welded.... split it from "wiggling my shaft too much" :D

Pauls wheelbase actually is what made his truck climb that hill easier than mine, with my longer wheelbase, my wheels kept sinking into rutts and holes, where his weren't at the curcial times when traction was needed.
 

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