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12 bolts G80 drags the wheels when cornering?

C

COKE

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Hi all,

I just have mounted a 12 bolts out from a 79´ Jimmy with it,s original diff under my 88´ Blazer.
When i have gone out for checking it, i have noticed that it drags the wheels when cornering,making it impossible to drive.Seems like it was locked all the time.
I put 75w90 on it without additive.

I have been searching in the forum & Web but i didn,t find similar issues with the g80s.

Does know someone what could be trouble here?

Thanks in advance
 
Are you sure it's a G80?
My limited slip clutch style does that, I can hear it more when backing up slow.
If it's a clutch style you need to put additive in it, if it's a G80 or what they call GOV LOC then you shouldn't put additive in it.

COKE said:
Hi all,

I just have mounted a 12 bolts out from a 79´ Jimmy with it,s original diff under my 88´ Blazer.
When i have gone out for checking it, i have noticed that it drags the wheels when cornering,making it impossible to drive.Seems like it was locked all the time.
I put 75w90 on it without additive.

I have been searching in the forum & Web but i didn,t find similar issues with the g80s.

Does know someone what could be trouble here?

Thanks in advance
Click to expand...
 
I think so.
It seems to be the same as the youtube video wich 76 zimmer linked.
Anyway,here is a pic.


Uploaded with ImageShack.us


Yours did that when cornering at normal speed,i supppuse.And not so exagerate.
Mine does it even when you are maneouvering or parking.Looks like if it had a mini spool.



Thanks both of you.
 
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yep thats govlock...if the govenor mechanism, and engagement pawl are working freely, perhaps the clutch disc's are frozen together....looks like there had been some water in there too.
 
Hello Zimmer

That picture is from the day i bought it.After that,i cleaned , removed the rust and painted it very well .

Today before starting the engine i have jacked up the truck and i have noticed that it was locked(Both wheel turned equal)
After to be turning the wheels by hand, it has unlocked and then it has started to do the same as an open diff (One wheel turned counterclock wise and the other clockwise)
I have removed the jack and i have gone out for a drive.
The first corner was ok,the second one it has started to drag the right wheel again.
I have jacked up the rear and it was locked.

When i have removed the cap ,it was unlocked again.Everything seems to work,and moves freely.Even the lobe wheel behind the left planetary gear

If i turn countherclockwise the right wheel,the gov barrel open it,s counterweights and locks.The left wheel does the same but turning it clockwise.

After to watching the YouTube video over and over,the one and only explanation i can find,is that maybe the barrel open the counterweights too easily and locks with too low RPMs gears difference and after that stayed locked for any reason.
Maybe i shouldn,t be able to open the countherweights with my finger,perhaps they should to be tighter.I don,t know.:dunno:
 
When I first installed the 12-bolt in my Suburban, it was doing the same thing.

Worked great on jackstands; by hand it felt the same as the gov-lock in my 10 bolt that came out (which worked fine). On the street... it would lock up around gentle corners. I wrapped wire around the flyweights until I was able to replace the diff with a True-Trac. 100% better now, and stronger too!

The wire was a great temp fix... however I was always reminding myself that it was in there. After a year of driving, when I pulled it out, the wire was still wrapped around the flyweights.
 
Carley,I also bought a Truetrac for the front 10 bolts.Still in the box,maybe this week i will start to installing it.

I would like to buy one for the rear 12 bolts,the trouble is that they aren´t availables for the serie 3 carriers (2.90-3.42) .

Abou the wire, is what i will need to do too.
 
Oh yeah... I lucked out with 3.73's in mine so the truetrac just fit.

For extra protection, you could weld those flyweights together, or somehow disassemble that bit. I didn't see an easy way to do that when I was working on it though.

Good luck!
 
Coke...I think Iceman also has changed the spring in the govenor to make it harder for the weights to move out and engage the pawl...you might try that?
 
76zimmer said:
Coke...I think Iceman also has changed the spring in the govenor to make it harder for the weights to move out and engage the pawl...you might try that?
Click to expand...

It looks like he had water in there for a while, that spring is done, once a spring sees rust, it doesn't work anymore.
You might be fine by just replacing the spring, the rest if it cleaned up well and is not rusting, then just change the spring, you should be able to find someone that had a gov loc that exploded or someone that doesn't like gov locs and wants to throw it away, shipping it to spain shouldn't be to bad.
I like gov locs and would prefer fixing it rather than changing it.:dunno:

ANd ZImm, I didn't change a spring in a gov loc, but in something similar: a centrifugal clutch, and it worked, so it takes some trial and error to get the right spring, but it can be done.
:)
 
imiceman44 said:
It looks like he had water in there for a while, that spring is done, once a spring sees rust, it doesn't work anymore.
You might be fine by just replacing the spring, the rest if it cleaned up well and is not rusting, then just change the spring, you should be able to find someone that had a gov loc that exploded or someone that doesn't like gov locs and wants to throw it away, shipping it to spain shouldn't be to bad.
I like gov locs and would prefer fixing it rather than changing it.:dunno:

:)
Click to expand...

That picture looks horrible.I,ll try to take an actual one
The governor and counterweight axles have a bit of rust,but the springs didn,t look bad if recall correctly.

About to get another governor,i have been searching the web,ebay,etc and doesn,t look easy to find that part.
I know a guy from the south of Spain who had troubles with the gov lock on his M1009,the clutches were worn or something.He replaced it for a Eaton posi performance or truetrac i don,t recall.
Maybe he still has the gov lock around there and the governor part is ok.But it was a 10 bolts axle.

About the springs,i don,t know if they lost their strenght.
There is a shop here spring specialized .I could remove and take them just to see if they have something that works.
 
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ccarley said:
When I first installed the 12-bolt in my Suburban, it was doing the same thing.

Worked great on jackstands; by hand it felt the same as the gov-lock in my 10 bolt that came out (which worked fine). On the street... it would lock up around gentle corners. I wrapped wire around the flyweights until I was able to replace the diff with a True-Trac. 100% better now, and stronger too!

The wire was a great temp fix... however I was always reminding myself that it was in there. After a year of driving, when I pulled it out, the wire was still wrapped around the flyweights.
Click to expand...

Can you explain how you wraped the wire on the flyweights I need to do this to one till next month when uncle sam pays me mmy money then will get a diff locker to install
 
blazenbaja_67 said:
Can you explain how you wraped the wire on the flyweights I need to do this to one till next month when uncle sam pays me mmy money then will get a diff locker to install
Click to expand...


You can weld them together too.
I,m also considering to fabricate the tool for removing the governor until i can buy a new diff.
 
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