Jrgunn5150
1/2 ton status
Aren't the spring perches a different width?
CK5
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12bolt w/ARB or 14bff w/Govlock?
- Thread starter macg
- Start date
JIMs70K25
1/2 ton status
Should be the same, only the 1 ton 14B are different.
huntingaddict
Registered Member
perch width
as far as I know, the 6 lug S/F's are all from the later series and the perch width is wrong on them. I had to cut them off and reweld perches, not really a big deal though. At least when you are done you get the pinion angle just where you want it.
Tom
Jrgunn5150 said:
as far as I know, the 6 lug S/F's are all from the later series and the perch width is wrong on them. I had to cut them off and reweld perches, not really a big deal though. At least when you are done you get the pinion angle just where you want it.
Tom
79chevyk10
1/2 ton status
Okay, here is some more food for thought. I currently have a 12 bolt rear with a detroit, 4.56's and superior axle shafts running on 36's. I have spun the tubes twice now but never broke a shaft or ring gear teeth (I built it all myself). First time was on the rocks (did a quick mig weld and good to go) the next time was floggin the piss out of it at Hollister (full throttle to get over an obsticle) rear axle wrap hop and came down on the throttle still and this time broke the housing where the tube goes in and spun the tube and bend a main leaf and roached a rear driveline u-joint and straps. Welded up again this time with stick and stainless rod along with a traction bar. So far so good. Running Dusy trail in 1.5 weeks and have CUCV axles coming by frieght as we speak.
All that being said, if you see yourself wheelin hard or running bigger tires than 35's, just jump right to the 14FF and deal with the diff plow for now, cheaper in the long run.
All that being said, if you see yourself wheelin hard or running bigger tires than 35's, just jump right to the 14FF and deal with the diff plow for now, cheaper in the long run.
huntingaddict
Registered Member
twisting tubes
The problem listed above with the twisting tubes is actually quite easy to prevent. You can add some bracing with tubing across the top of the center that curves down and welds to the tubes and fully weld the tubes and they won't twist. Just make sure to go very slow with plenty of time for cooling or you will warp the housing if it is not in a jig. The housings can be made quite bulletproof.
I do admit that the FF's are super strong and don't need these mods.
Tom
The problem listed above with the twisting tubes is actually quite easy to prevent. You can add some bracing with tubing across the top of the center that curves down and welds to the tubes and fully weld the tubes and they won't twist. Just make sure to go very slow with plenty of time for cooling or you will warp the housing if it is not in a jig. The housings can be made quite bulletproof.
I do admit that the FF's are super strong and don't need these mods.
Tom
79chevyk10
1/2 ton status
It would be even better to tie the center section into the over the axle truss listed above in order to make it truely effective. Just welding a tube over the diff from tube to tube will not prevent the rosette welds from breaking and the pinion pointing to the sky.
huntingaddict
Registered Member
79chevyk10 said:
I intended that the tube be welded and tied into the top of the center as well as the tubes.
