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12in lift on k5...what to do about driveshafts?? any ideas???

01maroonz71

1/2 ton status
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Jan 8, 2007
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Well, the truck is built, and sitting on the 44tsl's the crossover steering is done, and now i have moved onto the driveshafts...


here's an over view, i have the 14FF pointed directly at the NP241 so i can run a CV shaft.... right now i have the stock slipyoke shaft in just to move it around the yard, and it "works", but binds at the top ujoint pretty bad.

im not sure if i wanna spend the cash on the SYE kit on this el cheapo mud truck. it will very rarely, if ever get driven on the street, and will mostly be trailered to the mud hole...


now for the front, it wont even bolt up to the 60 with the 12in springs bc it binds so bad, and rests on the crossmember...so im gonna cut and brace the crossmember, and hopefully grind the cv tabs enough for it to work. i think it may length wise, and as you all know the superlift 12's are gonna be stiff as hell, so i should be alright.


any ideas??? would the SYE be worth it, or should i try to track down a th400/205 and be done with it??


right now she's got a 700r4/241 w/ 212k miles on em.


thanks guys
~Dave
 
id do a 400/205 so you get the fixed yoke rear and you can put a 1410 at the front output and the pinion, and if that doesnt work use tom woods offset ujoints.
 
if its gonna be a mud truck exclusively,id go 400 205 just for the strength factor and being able to run a stronger joint.isnt there like 2 to 3 inch difference in the 700 tranny and 400 anyway?it would shorten your front shaft and lengthen your rear.u would need some kind of cv front shaft then to make up for the front angle anyway.that drivetrain has a lot of miles on them to begin with.
 
Blazer is too short for a divorced T-case. You should clock your T-case down and cut and turn your knuckles and move the yoke on the 60.
 

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