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1310 cv front broke in moab upgrade?

imiceman44

imiceman44

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So as some know I broke my front 1310 driveshaft.
It wasn't a weakness but I hit the tube and bent it not knowing it and continued driving and stretched the straps on the front yoke and when I hit double whammy and bounced the yoke ripped.
The ball in the cv also got damaged as well as the long slip apparently got bent.
The cv is a yoke type not flange.
I can get it fixed for $375. Plus front yoke.
I can upgrade to 1350 for $575 plus a 1350 yoke on the axle.
I can put a flange on the tcase and use the new driveshaft I have from Jessy HAD (stock style 1310 cv shaft in new condition) and add a long slip probably cost $250.
The front axle is a 10 bolt and never will be upgraded to a d60.
I am only keeping the truck until I build the suburban then I will sell it.
What do you guys think?
 
Yep last option I think is the best. The 1310 joints wont give you trouble
 
Bent77 said:
Yep last option I think is the best. The 1310 joints wont give you trouble
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That's my thought.
If I didn't bend it it would have been fine.
I think the tube on the HAD is thicker, it was made by Kidjethro for his own truck that I bought from him.
It should be strong enough to take some beating
 
imiceman44 said:
That's my thought.
If I didn't bend it it would have been fine.
I think the tube on the HAD is thicker, it was made by Kidjethro for his own truck that I bought from him.
It should be strong enough to take some beating
Click to expand...
And honestly, most lines you pick should avoid smacking the front driveshaft if you can. Not only for driveshaft life, but smacking the diff on stuff gets old. A .120” wall will suffice
 
Bent77 said:
And honestly, most lines you pick should avoid smacking the front driveshaft if you can. Not only for driveshaft life, but smacking the diff on stuff gets old. A .120” wall will suffice
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In 18 years of wheeling I never touched the driveshafts.
I have had body damage but always picked lines that kept rocks away from them.
Moab is different though and the rocks are across like steps so harder to avoid.
I am not even sure i know where it hit.
I know I started to hear a noise an hour earlier that I couldn't pinpoint that I know now was the driveshaft bent and wobbling and stretching the straps and destroying the cv internally.
Same noise I had in in my wagoneer from a bad angle and it self destructed after a year of wheeling taking out my transmission
 
FWIW, after talking over with Tom Woods, I went with a 1310 CV front shaft.
 
imiceman44 said:
In 18 years of wheeling I never touched the driveshafts.
I have had body damage but always picked lines that kept rocks away from them.
Moab is different though and the rocks are across like steps so harder to avoid.
I am not even sure i know where it hit.
I know I started to hear a noise an hour earlier that I couldn't pinpoint that I know now was the driveshaft bent and wobbling and stretching the straps and destroying the cv internally.
Same noise I had in in my wagoneer from a bad angle and it self destructed after a year of wheeling taking out my transmission
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You might’ve just rolled a rock underneath as well. All my years in Moab were really not an issue for fronts. Not to downgrade your concern, but i think youll be ok.
Me and @mrk5 have busted enough driveshafts for everyone, and they were all in Colorado. The loose stuff seems to pose a greater danger
 
Bent77 said:
You might’ve just rolled a rock underneath as well. All my years in Moab were really not an issue for fronts. Not to downgrade your concern, but i think youll be ok.
Me and @mrk5 have busted enough driveshafts for everyone, and they were all in Colorado. The loose stuff seems to pose a greater danger
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I know.
California trails are like that rocks and boulders all over and it's easy to pick your line to save the front driveshaft but if you don't think it through after negotiating the front where your rear driveshaft end you can take it out.
Most people here break the rear.
 
driveshafts never saw action in Moab but they've seen plenty of action here in CA. However I ran the easier trails in Moab though.
 
imiceman44 said:
I know.
California trails are like that rocks and boulders all over and it's easy to pick your line to save the front driveshaft but if you don't think it through after negotiating the front where your rear driveshaft end you can take it out.
Most people here break the rear.
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Yessir

Mrk5 has clipped several on the truck he has already in just a few years
 
skunked said:
driveshafts never saw action in Moab but they've seen plenty of action here in CA.
Click to expand...
The only one i broke in Moab was on 108” wheelbase. Total where I shouldn’t have been. If it would have been 188 wall, it would have lived

I replaced it with a .375 wall
 
One thing I forgot to ask.
I know d44 front has a crush sleeve.
Does the 10 bolt?
 
blazinzuk said:
Yes

But you can get a crush sleeve eliminator kit for about 20 bucks.
Click to expand...
So I need to replace my yoke.
Is cheap option to check the drag torque reading before I take it out then tighten the new one to accomplish the same torque reading?
 
You have to remove the carrier to measure it.

But I wouldn't worry about before just set it to spec.

To be honest I've replaced yokes without changing the crush sleeve. While I would never do that on a paying job, i have done it on my own stuff and I know friends who have too.

In that case I would mesure it then set it just a hair tighter.
 
blazinzuk said:
You have to remove the carrier to measure it.

But I wouldn't worry about before just set it to spec.

To be honest I've replaced yokes without changing the crush sleeve. While I would never do that on a paying job, i have done it on my own stuff and I know friends who have too.

In that case I would mesure it then set it just a hair tighter.
Click to expand...
I would worry more about it if it's the rear.
Front wouldn't see the speed to burn the bearings.
Had that happen to a van when I changed the seal.
It took a year before I could hear the bearing grind
 
There is a lot of feel to it.

Remember there is a different spec for new and used bearings . New I think is around 14 inch lbs. Used is 6-8 I believe
 
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